Compatible Accucraft Chopper Coupling Alternatives

[AlexC]

Hi all,

I’m looking for some suggestions from people who’ve experimented with alternatives to the standard Accucraft chopper couplings.

I’m currently scratch building a bogied wagon and want to use a chopper coupling with an extension bar through the buffer beam, but I don’t want to fit the Accucraft couplings themselves as I feel they'll negatively impact the aesthetics of the wagon (I'm constructing the wagon using timber strips rather than plywood for the rustic look).

What I’m ideally looking for is something that is:

Compatible with Accucraft chopper couplings (so it will hook up with the rest of my stock)

Has an extension bar (pivots behind the buffer beam)

Preferably brass or other metal alternative, as I find brass gives a nice weight to the coupling, and matches the other brass couplings I use on my rolling stock. I’d rather avoid 3D-printed or resin alternatives as I worry they'll contrast too much with the other couplings on my rolling stock (otherwise I would purchase Tenmilles Chopper Coupling with the extension bar option: https://www.tenmille.com/AG046 ).

Has anyone come across good options that fit the bill? Or adapted other couplings successfully for this purpose?

Thanks in advance for any ideas or experience you can share!

Alex

[ge_rik]

Hi Alex
Welcome to the forum.

Sorry, can't help with your enquiry, but I'm sure someone on here will help.

In the meantime, you could search the forum to see what others have done in the past - for example -https://gardenrails.org/viewtopic.php?p=121089
and - viewtopic.php?t=5746

I seem to remember this topic has arisen quite a few times over the years.

Rik

[GTB]

I’m looking for some suggestions from people who’ve experimented with alternatives to the standard Accucraft chopper couplings.

Brandbright list metal chopper couplings with extended shanks, with the pivot behind the headstock when installed. I've no idea if they are compatible with Accucraft choppers.

I standardised on Accucraft choppers years ago, but dislike mounting them on the outside of the headstock, as the wagons end up too far apart.

On all my chopper fitted rolling stock the coupler is mounted from behind the headstock. This reduces the spacing between vehicles and also reduces the end overhang as well. On bogie wagons and coaches the reduced overhang also reduces coupler locking on sharp curves when bogie and four-wheeled wagons are coupled together.

There are photos of the arrangement in this old post on my standard four-wheeled chassis. Bogie chassis have a similar arrangement.

https://gardenrails.org/viewtopic.php?t=5238
https://gardenrails.org/viewtopic.php?t=9793

The usual hook for chain couplings on an Accucraft coupler has to be replaced with a suitable screw and nut, as the coupler pivot is buried in the headstock. No big deal to me, as I don't use centre buffers and chain couplings.

Graeme

[LNR]

all my chopper fitted rolling stock the coupler is mounted from behind the headstock.

I second this.
As well as mounting behind the headstock, I add a packing piece that brings the bolt or hook that the coupling pivots on to immediately outside the headstock as per the pic below to avoid all the problems Graeme has mentioned.

New Underframe 3.JPG (342.48 KiB) Viewed 1183 times

Grant.

[Dr. Bond of the DVLR]

I've found that tenmille choppers are compatable, and most of the small brass versions, for example from brandbright, will also couple (but there tends to be a modicom of fiddling to get the blades to not clash.

Similar to others I've used Accucraft choppers on most of my stock as they are readily available (indeed, becuase some people prefer a simple buffer with chain I've managed to buy most of mine in big bundles second hand) and reliable and, crucially, they work very well when propelling.
What I've been doing to reduce the over-hand is to: Remove the spring, file the small button on the back of the pivoting part off, drill the pivot hole 4.5mm further back, then mill off the face of the pocket (could easily be sawn off then filed true) down to the back of the original hole. This reduces the length of the coupling by 9 mm if both halves of the pair have been modified which makes just enough difference to be worth while.
Seen here on the front of the garratt, a quick brush on a piece of emery cloth gives the buffing face a more realistic look.

[AlexC]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I've been looking through old posts on the forum relating to this topic however I'm relatively new and still learning how to effectively use the search function.

I've had my eye on Brandbright's brass chopper couplings for a while. I had been toying with the idea of switching all my chopper couplings for either Brandbright's or Slaters chopper couplings however with my current range of rolling stock, this would be very expensive. Additionally, Ive recently switched the couplings of my passenger coaches from center buffers to Trenarrens Oval Bellmouth couplings for a little bit of variety and to ensure compatibility, I also got my hands on some Swift Sixteen Chopper couplings and SAR Couplings for my loco. I've amalgamated them allowing me to switch between the two with just a pin. I don't want the Swift Sixteen Chopper couplings to go to waste, hence why I'm exploring compatible options.

I really like the suggestions that you all have given me, not sure why I hadn't thought of recessing the Accucrafts Chopper before. I just need to decide if I need the hook on the chopper or if should recess it fully like Graeme has.

If Brandbright's chopper is a potential option, what kind of modifications need to be made to ensure proper coupling?

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Alex

[GTB]

I really like the suggestions that you all have given me, not sure why I hadn't thought of recessing the Accucrafts Chopper before.

I should mention that I also use shortened Accucraft choppers similar to that shown by Dr Bond. Mostly on locomotives, as they don't always have the space to recess the coupler.

There's a second advantage to the shortened box. It allows more sideplay for the coupler, which can be handy on locos with long overhangs.

I only use the chopper couplings on my TVT locos and rolling stock, which is a common carrier. The timber tram stock is industrial and uses various versions of simple link and pin couplers that I machine up myself.

Graeme