Cheers guys, but this isn't restored. It wasn't even roadworthy.
drewzero1 wrote: Wed Feb 21, 2024 12:56 pm
The oldest car I've driven as my primary transportation is/was my 40-year-old SAAB, and considering relative complexity and parts availability a Model A is by leaps and bounds a much more practical vehicle!
Oh I don't know, my mother would be quite envious of your SAAB.
ge_rik wrote: Wed Feb 21, 2024 12:26 pm
I used Model A sound files as the basis for my Ford(ish) Rail motor Mp3 soundcard - plus a few extra sounds such as the gearbox whine and gear changes. I'll bet yours sounds a whole lot sweeter.
I thought your railmotor sounded familiar.

Sorry to say, there was no sweetness at all in my engine..
I saw a video of it running before purchase, but that was taken in a cramped garage. Of course it was loud.
My plan was to buy it, get any roadworthy-preventing issues dealt with, and slowly improve it as I drove it a couple days a week.
It turned out to be your typical older restoration - nice paint and upholstery, but mechanically poor.
The roof of the car has a wooden frame, with chicken wire, padding and vinyl stretched over the top.
This was built in that transition from "wood body with steel panels nailed on" to "all-steel bodies".
Whomever restored this car in the US, (thought at the time to be 20 years prior) used straight-shank nails to hold the roof trim strips on.
Through vibration and the spring action of the (badly hammer-battered) rear trim, these have pulled right out.
Besides a single bead of bathroom silicone in the wrong place across the front, there was zero sealant to be found. Also small holes in the vinyl.
Muppet who owned it before me drove it in the rain without a second (or first, looking at his other work) thought.
I'm lucky the interior isn't water-damaged.
Underneath wasn't too bad, just surface rust and a complete lack of any protection for the 3/4" plywood floor. Nothing damaged.
The car had no shock absorbers on it, and the previous owner said he had it up to 50mph/80km. That tells me the springs aren't doing their job.
If they were, the car would be uncontrollable over 20mph. You can see they're rusted stiff. They groaned louder than the brakes when you got in it.
03/02/22
First order of business - make the thing controllable. Backing out at 10mph/16km isn't pleasant.
Flogged throttle linkage machined and bushed. Idle is slightly improved, still dies under 900rpm. Engine is gutless and car lurches violently when moving between side yard (former garden line) and garage.
The amp meter in the dash tried to burn the car down with a loose connection. Very common problem, lucky I caught it. Model As had an "always live" electrical system and no fuses whatsoever. Nor an oil filter, you were changing it every 500 miles. Yes, I'm adding these things.
Yup, those manifolds were cooked.
Not one of those ports was sealing. Cheap and nasty muffler (installed wrong of course) didn't help either.
Interestingly, this is an aftermarket heater manifold. There was a hot air outlet in the floorboard. Won't be needing a heater in QLD.
It's not all bad though, might take a leaf out of Peter Jones' book, and use it on a 16mm sugar mill..
23/03/22
"Enough parts including new manifolds, exhaust, wiring and misc. bits to get it roadworthy."
How wrong I was..
25/03/22
Daunted by Parts Mountain, I started with the easy job of wire wheeling, cleaning and epoxy enamel painting under the rear wheel arches.
3 of 5 Rear RH wheel studs are loose in the drum. Looks like I'm going to cast irons now rather than down the line.
You can really see how the front end sags when the front spring gets weak and stiff. Crooked, adapted 1928 headlight bar too.
Behold, this marvel of electrical engineering, Featuring 3m of electrical tape. Daisy-chained from the handbrake cross-shaft - which turns.
Last guy's work. He also put those cheesy plastic indicators in the bumpers, to the same standard.
Why you would put a battery shut-off in such an inaccessible place is beyond me. The corrugated conduit over the cables was to protect them from rubbing on the service brake rod, because buying a longer cable and routing it sensibly is too hard, apparently.
A proper cut-off is on hand, and will be fitted through the floor so I can switch it under the driver's seat - on the ground side, unlike this thing.
29/04/22
New manifolds and exhaust fixed the exhaust leak, but problems persisted. With the millimeter-thick coating of hard carbon removed, you can see No.3 is scored from overheating, the others aren't much better. Water jacket's full of rust, fibre timing gear is loose, valves are burned to hell.
Main bearings have tins of shims - but they haven't been taken up in years, now the centre main is hammered out. I didn't bother checking the rods.
This engine is thoroughly ruined.
At this point, all my money was gone. My hopes to get on the road, find some work and put my life back together (it's been a very hard decade for me, and modelling is how I've dealt with it) were dashed. On a disability pension, a short block rebuild would take 5 years so save for.
My parents offered to lend me the money, as they had been left more than enough for their house deposit. I argued against borrowing that much, but they talked me into it. In hindsight, it was the right move.
Plenty more to do in the meantime, I'd bought all those (badly needed) parts after all. No longer a "slowly spruce it up as you drive it", but rather a full-blown re-restoration. If I wasn't working on this, I'd be working on something else. Bring it on then.
More on the engine later, we won't be using that one..