Garden Railway Forum

I've been at it again - this time an IP Engineering Albert. .
I found the build to be a bit fiddlier than the HGLW build as some of the parts needed to be aligned by eye. However, probably a day's build to get her to this stage. She's powered by two 14500 (AA sized) li-ion batteries which just (only just!) squeeze in under the chassis. They are wired in parallel (to get twice the running time). Deltang receivers are happy to run off one 3.7v li-ion battery and include automated Low Voltage detection to cut off the supply when li-ion battery packs fall below a safe level. I've set her to 32mm gauge as she will shuttle back and forth on the copper mine feeder line (using the built-in shuttle feature on the Rx65). .
She's controlled by a Deltang Rx65a receiver. The Rx65a has been superceded by the Rx65b, which is slightly larger and more powerful. However, I had this Rx65a left over from a previous conversion and so waste-not-want-not! The receiver is just visible above the motor in this shot. .
I'm going to add Delrin sprockets and chain drive to improve her pulling power but she will happily pull three Binnie skips (providedI don't try going round any curves or up any hills). .
I'll blog the build when I've done a paint-job on her. I focused a lot more on the wiring-up this time as I know that's an aspect which some people feel apprehensive about.

Rik

Nice little loco, it could do with a bit of weight I guess..
And it needs a scale fire extinguisher, you are a brave man putting "Trust Fire" batteries in a wooden locomotive..

I do feel I could switch to li-lion batteries as I have read enough about your work Rik to wire them correctly but it's the cost of buying a suitable charger that puts me off (the charger I currently use cost me under £20 and charges all my locos + trickle charge).

tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat May 05, 2018 4:21 pm I do feel I could switch to li-lion batteries as I have read enough about your work Rik to wire them correctly but it's the cost of buying a suitable charger that puts me off (the charger I currently use cost me under £20 and charges all my locos + trickle charge).

Hi Tom
You can get a (cloned) iMax B6 charger for just over £20 - eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152999311666 - They charge just about anything which can be charged and you can set the charge rate from 0.1A to whatever you fancy - even includes a heat sensor input for the mad car fast charge crowd. You'll see some scare stories about cloned B6 chargers. I suppose it's the luck of the draw, but I've been using a B6 clone for over 5 years now and ...... so far, so good.

Rik

Tom, I agree with Rk, I've been using an imax b6 for several years with no probs. It is/was a bit of a 'mare to get to grips with the instructons but Rik did one of his mega-helpful blog guides which makes it all pretty plain sailing.

daan wrote: ↑Sat May 05, 2018 12:35 pm Nice little loco, it could do with a bit of weight I guess..
And it needs a scale fire extinguisher, you are a brave man putting "Trust Fire" batteries in a wooden locomotive..

Hi Daan
I did put a bit of lead in her, but the problem is the 2wd chasis. I know from past experience what a difference adding 4wd can make. Before adding 4wd, my Simplex could just manage 4 skips on the flat but that was her limit - and she certainly couldn't tow them up a gradient! As you can see, adding 4wd made a world of difference - no extra weight was added, just used the weight of the whitemetal body before and after adding the chain drive.


Rik

philipy wrote: ↑Sat May 05, 2018 4:43 pm Tom, I agree with Rk, I've been using an imax b6 for several years with no probs. It is/was a bit of a 'mare to get to grips with the instructons but Rik did one of his mega-helpful blog guides which makes it all pretty plain sailing.

Thanks Philip
Yes, the instruction manual assumes a fair bit of prior knowledge and is also written in Chinglish, which makes it even more indecipherable. I'm sure you'll have no problem figuring it out, though, Tom. It sort of makes sense once you get over the initial learning curve.

Rik

You don't really need a fancy charger if you are just going to be charging a couple of cells. The very cheap fixed rate balance chargers will do the job.

May be a dumb remark: 3.7 volt Li-ion is about a mobile phone battery. Would a charger for those be working?

Nice video Rik! It really is a strong puller with 4x4.. Great layout with the little bridge across the small river.

daan wrote: ↑Sun May 06, 2018 8:25 am May be a dumb remark: 3.7 volt Li-ion is about a mobile phone battery. Would a charger for those be working?

In theory it could, Daan. But mobile phones include circuitry to monitor the charging process and the charger just provides the power. An 'intelligent' charger includes the circuitry. It is possible to buy a circuit board to manage charging but it would have to be wired into the loco (or added to the phone charger).

Rik

Thanks guys, I forgot about Rik's blog about the charger so I think I will take the plunge next time one of my NiMH packs dies as I would like more space in my Cricket to fit a smoke generator.

Video of her test run. Not very exciting, but gives you an idea of her in action.


Rik

Another superb build Rik.

While I still procrastinate over the HGLW kit you built and made me decide would be my next project you've now made me reconsider.

Based on your experiences, which would you say is the more powerful?

Thanks,

Ian

It makes a nice little 2-stroke engine noise.

IanC wrote: ↑Sun May 06, 2018 1:03 pm Another superb build Rik.

While I still procrastinate over the HGLW kit you built and made me decide would be my next project you've now made me reconsider.

Based on your experiences, which would you say is the more powerful?

Thanks,

Ian

Not sure, as yet, Ian. At the moment, the HGLW loco is by far the most powerful, but that's because it has 4wd as standard. After I've installed 4wd on the IP Engineering loco I'll be able to make a better comparison.

Rik

Thank you Rik,

I was interested to note that you fit 4wd after you have completed the build and not during it.

I would have thought that it's harder to do it that way than when the kit is still in parts?

I'll await your findings. Given the speed of your previous builds I suspect that won't be long!

Ian

IanC wrote: ↑Sun May 06, 2018 5:36 pm Thank you Rik,

I was interested to note that you fit 4wd after you have completed the build and not during it.

I would have thought that it's harder to do it that way than when the kit is still in parts?

I'll await your findings. Given the speed of your previous builds I suspect that won't be long!

Ian

Hi Ian
You're quite right. It would have made a lot more sense to install the 4wd mechanism during the build, but I was doing this one as simply as possible purposefully for my blog. I realised, when replying to someone who had enquired about fitting radio control, that nowhere on my blog was a simple description of how to do it. All my descriptions include wiring-up additional bits and pieces like directional lighting or soundcards. So I kept the initial build and rc installation as straightforward as possible. Just like the HGLW build, I'll write up the detailing ( and the fitting of 4wd) as a separate posting. I'll put a link in the first post in the mechanism section to the 4wd post, mentioning it would be a good time to fit the chain drive but a first-time builder might prefer not to have the added complication at that stage (but might decide to do it later).

Sorry, long answer to a simple question.

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Mon May 07, 2018 7:50 am

IanC wrote: ↑Sun May 06, 2018 5:36 pm Thank you Rik,

I was interested to note that you fit 4wd after you have completed the build and not during it.

I would have thought that it's harder to do it that way than when the kit is still in parts?

I'll await your findings. Given the speed of your previous builds I suspect that won't be long!

Ian

Hi Ian
You're quite right. It would have made a lot more sense to install the 4wd mechanism during the build, but I was doing this one as simply as possible purposefully for my blog. I realised, when replying to someone who had enquired about fitting radio control, that nowhere on my blog was a simple description of how to do it. All my descriptions include wiring-up additional bits and pieces like directional lighting or soundcards. So I kept the initial build and rc installation as straightforward as possible. Just like the HGLW build, I'll write up the detailing ( and the fitting of 4wd) as a separate posting. I'll put a link in the first post in the mechanism section to the 4wd post, mentioning it would be a good time to fit the chain drive but a first-time builder might prefer not to have the added complication at that stage (but might decide to do it later).

Sorry, long answer to a simple question.

Rik

Rik,

Don't apologise for any long answers. I understand your logic. As I am a simple person and lack a lot of experience in this scale, all knowledge is good and useful. There may be other browsers out there too like me. Performance is important to me, besides having a good looking loco hence my questions.

Interestingly from what I understand the two locomotives (HGLW and IPE) use diffferent forms of 4wd. IPE presumably uses a chain and the HGLW a belt? As far as I know IPE no longer supply the chain and cogs?

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to reply.

Ian

IanC wrote: ↑Mon May 07, 2018 8:50 am Interestingly from what I understand the two locomotives (HGLW and IPE) use diffferent forms of 4wd. IPE presumably uses a chain and the HGLW a belt? As far as I know IPE no longer supply the chain and cogs?

Yes, curious that the chain and sprockets are no longer on the IPE website, as they make a world of difference to 2wd locos' performance. I like the way that 4wd is made available as an option on the HGLW website, and the pulley system is a lot easier to build - in fact, wheels, gears and pulleys come already fitted to the axles which makes construction a lot easier for a novice, whereas the wheels and gears have to be fitted to the axles in the IPE kit which can be a bit daunting if you've not done it before.

Rik

ge_rik wrote: ↑Mon May 07, 2018 9:15 am

IanC wrote: ↑Mon May 07, 2018 8:50 am Interestingly from what I understand the two locomotives (HGLW and IPE) use diffferent forms of 4wd. IPE presumably uses a chain and the HGLW a belt? As far as I know IPE no longer supply the chain and cogs?

Yes, curious that the chain and sprockets are no longer on the IPE website, as they make a world of difference to 2wd locos' performance. I like the way that 4wd is made available as an option on the HGLW website, and the pulley system is a lot easier to build - in fact, wheels, gears and pulleys come already fitted to the axles which makes construction a lot easier for a novice, whereas the wheels and gears have to be fitted to the axles in the IPE kit which can be a bit daunting if you've not done it before.

Rik

Thanks again Rik. I've built locomotive kits in 4mm scale so the IPE system wouldn't be a concern for me. I wonder if one system is better thant the other?
I'll enquire with IPE if I remember to see if they still do the 4wd kit.

Ian