Custom points build - any recommendations?

[planty]

I’m looking to get a set of point custom built for the summer, I need to replace a set of small points that are mismatched to my peco G45 track with something that will fit the track layout better.

So I’m after recommendations of anyone folks have used to build points from some fairly crude but to scale drawings. Anyone any experience?

[bazzer42]

Garden Railway Specialists do handmade track but whether it is their way or no way I haven't a clue. Their stuff looks good at shows.

[philipy]

I think Marcway in Sheffield will build whatever you want, but they are expensive.

Why don't you build your own? It is nowhere near as difficult as most people imagine and you'll end up with something you've done yourself at a fraction of the cost.

[River Lin]

Hi Planty.
The 16mm ass'n website has plans for making your own points.
Go to Home page/ Resources / Drawings / Track.
Any use?
D.

[planty]

Hi Planty.
The 16mm ass'n website has plans for making your own points.
Go to Home page/ Resources / Drawings / Track.
Any use?
D.

Thanks, looks to be plans for more traditional points. What I'm after is more bespoke i.e. complicated! Needs to have a curve ideally on the main track and turnout.

[planty]

I think Marcway in Sheffield will build whatever you want, but they are expensive.

Why don't you build your own? It is nowhere near as difficult as most people imagine and you'll end up with something you've done yourself at a fraction of the cost.

Hmm, not sure I have the skills to get what I'm after. I might try Marcway and GRS to get an indicative price, was expecting to pay a premium but would rather than and have something that fits well. Tried the cheaper route with what I've got at the moment and it's just not ideal.

[Big Jim]

As others have said, Markway would be my choice for a builder, but they will cost you a few bob.

Why not have ago yourself? Phillip is right, it is not as difficult as it looks and very satisfying. Try a simple design first, if it works and you don't need it, flog it.
Like most things, careful planning, thought and patience should see you through.

[planty]

Phillip is right, it is not as difficult as it looks and very satisfying.

I'm not yet convinced! But any links to online articles or books/issues of 16mm/GR on track building?

[Big Jim]

I think the 16mm association had an article in one of their handbooks.

[Soar Valley Light]

Hi Planty,

Building your own is not that complicate - provided....

*You need to have the necessary materials available, i.e, rails, bearers and something to hold the two together.... much like plain line!
*You need to have a supply of 'machined' rail (i.e., planed down switches), shaped stock rails (if required), assembled crossing noses, or the means to shape and join rails to form one. (this is the difference from plain line!)
*An accurate drawing to build to that has been produced with all the necessary geometry and clearances taken into account.

Sounds complicated, it ain't really. Anyone capable of building rolling stock from scratch should be able to cope with track.

I build my own using components supplied by Cliff Barker. It's not expensive and, thanks to the quality of Cliff's materials, they look good. I've also produced my own turnout templates to build up on. This has been the biggest job by far, but I've gone right back to first principles and (roughly) produced a set of drawings much like the old REPW drawings produced by the old companies for std gauge. This has included the angles, bending and lengths of filing to produce point and splice rails and to bend up wing rails. For my switches I use the pre-ground blades which Cliff supplies. These are straight planed (of course and I put the joggle or set in the stock rails myself.

I've promised before on here to produce an illustrated description of the method I use to do all this and I'm working my way through it, although I'm some weeks (months!) away from having anything worthwhile to share.

I've settled on a standard design of 1 in 6 points on my line (switches are a scale 8' loose heel design). However in two locations I've needed similar flexure curved turnouts, both requiring shallower angle crossings. I've got a 1 in 10 build and laid and the next project to be set up in the building up yard (a board on the dining room table ) is a 1 in 8 with the sharper turnout radius continuing through the crossing (and beyond). Getting the geometry right before you even put pencil to paper is key to success. Just drawing a curve and letting the crossing fall wherever it lands introduces inaccuracies before you even start. It also makes building it accurately a very difficult task. If the word accuracy appears a lot that's because it 's important! Work as accurately as possible from the outset and any errors which creep in will be far less significant.

Listen to me, don't I sound like an expert - I'm definitely not! at best I'm a semi skilled bodger, but the turnouts I've built to the above principles do actually work! If you think I can offer any other help please shout.

Andrew

[ge_rik]

I'm not yet convinced! But any links to online articles or books/issues of 16mm/GR on track building?

Greg Hunter in Oz has fairly unique approaches to track construction which are worth a look. His idea of a styrene frog is intriguing.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/track.htm

Rik

[Dwayne]

Building switches isn't a diificult task. All my track and switches are handlaid which include straight, curved, dual curved and wyes using Code 250 aluminum rail. I've never used commercial track.