RC rapier (Richard)
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Hancockshire
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DolwyddelanLightRail
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Narrow Minded
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90733
- Driver
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:17 pm
- Location: West Yorkshire
- Contact:
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Narrow Minded
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Endless, Nameless
I'm sure there's a thread or two on here about fitting radio to an Edrig/ Mortimer etc. My Edrig has a 2.4Ghz set- up which I fitted myself, tis very easy- and I made life harder by fitting a non standard size servo (there is a standard size which lines up with the pre- drilled footplate holes). PM me if you want any help. I can probably even source a few bits and bobs for you- I can certainly make up the linkage between the servo and the reverser.
I've not done the regulator yet, it's on the to- do list. That's a bit trickier, you need to make a bracket up. They are designed for the reverser r/c to be an easy bolt- on mod though- you don't need the regulator to be radio controlled really.
I've not done the regulator yet, it's on the to- do list. That's a bit trickier, you need to make a bracket up. They are designed for the reverser r/c to be an easy bolt- on mod though- you don't need the regulator to be radio controlled really.
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90733
- Driver
- Posts: 1955
- Joined: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:17 pm
- Location: West Yorkshire
- Contact:
WHAT? It's my mums desion really in the end. She has to pay for the train tickets. And we might have to do it all in one day. 3hours on the train each way. But I think I might end up going.Narrow Minded wrote:I'm not quite sure if i'm going yet.:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
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DolwyddelanLightRail
Endless, Nameless wrote:I'm sure there's a thread or two on here about fitting radio to an Edrig/ Mortimer etc. My Edrig has a 2.4Ghz set- up which I fitted myself, tis very easy- and I made life harder by fitting a non standard size servo (there is a standard size which lines up with the pre- drilled footplate holes). PM me if you want any help. I can probably even source a few bits and bobs for you- I can certainly make up the linkage between the servo and the reverser.
I've not done the regulator yet, it's on the to- do list. That's a bit trickier, you need to make a bracket up. They are designed for the reverser r/c to be an easy bolt- on mod though- you don't need the regulator to be radio controlled really.
PCLR wrote:i am just sorting out the photos for youi had to pull my edrig a part to take them
Thanks!
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Endless, Nameless
I say that, I've mislaid one of the servo horn: actuating arm mijiggers that I had (I definitely had two the other day; one is now on my engine, the other is AWOL!)... I'm sure it'll reappear, but it's a standard bit from antics anyway. The required bits and bobs will cost you less than a tenner once you've got a servo, battery, switch and radio set. Probably about £85 all in, including a charger, if you get the same 2.4 GHz set I got. I can probably sort most if not all of the "bits and bobs" though.
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DolwyddelanLightRail
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DolwyddelanLightRail
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mhlr
- Retired Director
- Posts: 4336
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:16 pm
- Location: Shropshire, England
The big compartment under the footplate is for the battery pack and receiver, and oviously the on/off switch goes in the slot provided in the side frames.
For the arial, you can do like PCLR has done by wrapping it around something, but slightly ugly to be honest, so I'd say the best way is to remove the brass dome, solder the end of the arial to the inside of it, then insulate the dome from the rest of the metal loco by using a piece of rubber/gasket paper or whatever underneath the dome where it sits, and also a plastic insulator where the bolt holds the dome on (not sure if they're provided with that anyway?). Basically, so the dome is fully insulated from the rest of the locomotives boiler...
For the arial, you can do like PCLR has done by wrapping it around something, but slightly ugly to be honest, so I'd say the best way is to remove the brass dome, solder the end of the arial to the inside of it, then insulate the dome from the rest of the metal loco by using a piece of rubber/gasket paper or whatever underneath the dome where it sits, and also a plastic insulator where the bolt holds the dome on (not sure if they're provided with that anyway?). Basically, so the dome is fully insulated from the rest of the locomotives boiler...
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PCLR
that did not work for me??mhlr wrote:The big compartment under the footplate is for the battery pack and receiver, and oviously the on/off switch goes in the slot provided in the side frames.
For the arial, you can do like PCLR has done by wrapping it around something, but slightly ugly to be honest, so I'd say the best way is to remove the brass dome, solder the end of the arial to the inside of it, then insulate the dome from the rest of the metal loco by using a piece of rubber/gasket paper or whatever underneath the dome where it sits, and also a plastic insulator where the bolt holds the dome on (not sure if they're provided with that anyway?). Basically, so the dome is fully insulated from the rest of the locomotives boiler...
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Endless, Nameless
You can't have insulated it properly.
My dome isn't insulated Pete, I think it's the same batch as unpronounciablelightrail's.
However, I'd seriously recommend getting a cheap 2.4GHz set. Saves all that faffing about, the reciever, switch and batteries easily fit into the compartment under the cab, with the aerial poking forwards- the only wire that needs to appear is that to the servo, which hides behind the tanks.
Mine is fitted slightly differently to PCLR's, but only in detail- I have a threaded end on the linkage and a fancy noggin to clamp it to the servo horn. Allows for some smaller adjustments. I've also got a slightly different arrangement at the reverser end, looks marginally neater (I think) but isn't necessary.
My dome isn't insulated Pete, I think it's the same batch as unpronounciablelightrail's.
However, I'd seriously recommend getting a cheap 2.4GHz set. Saves all that faffing about, the reciever, switch and batteries easily fit into the compartment under the cab, with the aerial poking forwards- the only wire that needs to appear is that to the servo, which hides behind the tanks.
Mine is fitted slightly differently to PCLR's, but only in detail- I have a threaded end on the linkage and a fancy noggin to clamp it to the servo horn. Allows for some smaller adjustments. I've also got a slightly different arrangement at the reverser end, looks marginally neater (I think) but isn't necessary.
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Endless, Nameless
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