Vale of Fairway

[LNR]

Can't get over how the different sized door accentuates the difference in 7/8ths. scale.
That barn looks very nice, looks like a watering point for perhaps a steam loco on the spur running across the front.
Grant.

[FWLR]

Nice Derek, looks even better now.

[bazzer42]

Derek, I'm intrigued by your "Gorilla Glue and External adhesive" mortar. Care to tell us more, like proportons, how you mixed it and even more importantl how you applied it?

I'm intrigued too Philip, will it stay put?

The mixture is probably 50/50 evo stik tile adhesive and gorilla pva. The pva is supposedly ok for external use. It was applied with a child's glue spreader and then wiped off with a damp/wet J cloth. Diluting the pva with a little water was a mistake as holes appeared as it dried. If I was doing a bigger building I would use some form of rubber spreader for speed and probably less residue to wipe off.

I am becoming increasingly doubtful about my desire to use more natural products, timber, brick slips etc, against the reality of mother nature. Would the slips adhere to the foamboard? Will timber rot too quickly? To quote Fungus the Bogeyman "decay is all that mother nature doth intend" I'm sure the British climate isn't conducive to natural materials unless you want to be humping stuff in and out of a shed continuously. The Nissen hut had been outside for 3 years at least before now with no real wear.

[Peter Butler]

The grout you have used sounds very similar to the way I screed my structures, the only difference being the Gorilla adhesive which should perform in exactly the same way as SBR.
From my experience, as long as the screed has a 'key' into its ground material it will defy all that nature can throw at it.
I agree entirely about avoiding timber in exterior construction as it will surely rot and destroy many hours of work. The dolls house brick slips do look good but I would expect them to be porous and not suitably stable in wet or freezing conditions. HIP seems to work well for me and your mix should bond to that too if the ground is scratched first. As for resin structure kits I'm not so sure as the release agent on the surface seems to continue to work for some considerable time even after washing. I have noticed the paint on my resin buildings comes off whereas the HIP ones remain in perfect condition.
It would be interesting to see whether a screed of your mix would bond onto a prepared (scratched) surface if you chose to cover the upper brickwork as an alternative to boards/planks?

[bazzer42]

I think you're right Peter. I have bought some wood for the engine shed and the wood yard but I think a major build in brick will have to be plasticard and foamboard. It will take an eternity to lay the bricks and it would be a shame to watch them peel off! Plasticard bricks are forgiving in that you can cut bigger or smaller to fill gaps.

I hereby state that my railway won't be complete until I build an interpretation of that brick barn, just not saying when I will start.....

[LNR]

I hereby state that my railway won't be complete

Are they ever?
Your in safe hands there mate.
Grant.

[philipy]

The mixture is probably 50/50 evo stik tile adhesive and gorilla pva.

Ahh, that makes moe sense now. When you said "Gorilla Glue" I assumed it was the original foaming one that sticks to everything it touches. I couldn't imagine how you kept it in the grooves!
I've not used the Gorilla PVA, but I have used both Evo and Wickes Waterproof PVA's mixed with Polyfiller and they seem to be reasonably weather resistant.

[bazzer42]

A set of dormer sides that hopefully Peter Butler will approve of - plasticard, scribed planks and wood grain scraped by a razor saw and stuck to 5mm foamboard. A bit of a conundrum building the window supports but once i figured that an internal cill would support the sides it became a bit of trial and error with my trusty schoolboy protractor.

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[FWLR]

HIP Peter......

[LNR]

High Impact Polystyrene.
Grant.

[bazzer42]

We'll the dormer fits a treat. Moving the son tomorrow so once I recover on Sunday hope to fix the brick base to the original building. Decided to keep the door in treated brown so I can retreat in the future.

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[tom_tom_go]

Did not realise that structure was that big that you could move your son into it, bonus!

[bazzer42]

Did not realise that structure was that big that you could move your son into it, bonus!

You are an IT guy - add a like button

I wish I could move him in, just realised we are going from a bungalow to stairs so some exercise guaranteed.

[Peter Butler]

The window looks good and works well in the design of the building. Do I detect shiplap on the front too?

[philipy]

The window looks just right. I like how the corrugated cladding comes down over it, as well.

[FWLR]

Thanks Grant, were can I buy it from please.

[Peter Butler]

Hi Rod,
I buy all of my HIP on-line as it can be considerably cheaper than from local shops, even if I had one!
If you open eBay and enter 'High Impact Polystyrene' in the search box you will have a variety of colours, thicknesses and sizes to choose from.
Do NOT buy the vacuum forming material as it will not respond to the solvent we normally use.
Happy hunting.

[FWLR]

Thank you Peter.

[ge_rik]

What a great looking bash. Really like the way you've added the window.

Just catching up with this thread from before Christmas. There seem to be a few really interesting threads like this one which I've somehow missed over the Christmas period.

Rik

[bazzer42]

The window looks good and works well in the design of the building. Do I detect shiplap on the front too?

See where you are coming from Peter but it is the original 16mm bricks that will receive vertical cladding. Thanks for the hip source.

What a great looking bash. Really like the way you've added the window.

Just catching up with this thread from before Christmas. There seem to be a few really interesting threads like this one which I've somehow missed over the Christmas period.

Rik

Not missed much Rik - man builds shed.