Joining LGB/Piko to Peco track

[listerboy]

Hi

When joining LGB/Piko to Peco track, is there a considerable change in rail profile?

Put another way, is there a 'thunk' like a bad joint?

Thanks

Brian

[listerboy]

I'm assuming from the lack of replies that I'm barking up the wrong tree!

[IrishPeter]

LGB/PIKO track is Code 332, whilst Peco G45 rail is Code 250; and, IIRC, their 32mm NG profile track code 215.  This means that that the rail profile for the PECO track is considerably lower than that for LGB/Piko, so yes - you will get a "thunk" - but due to there being a step rather than a bad joint.

Several suppliers make compound rail clamps that take code 332 one side and code 250 the other.  There is probably someone somewhere who makes one that is 332 one side and 215 the other, but as I am 45mm not 32mm I would not know where to look. On my line compound clamps are used to connect those areas that are laid in 332 (where there is a lot of foot traffic) to those away from incautious humans that are laid in C250 aluminium rail.

Cheers,
Peter in AZ

[bazzer42]

I have worked successfully with lgb, aristo and tenmille.  Tenmille is finer width wise but is broadly the same height and can be held securely by nipped lgb fishplates. I have to admit I have always seen peco as all or nothing due to the height problem.


All of my extension has been laid with secondhand tenmille and lgb or piko points and appears quite smooth. If cost is a factor then secondhand track may be a better option. The modular sleeper base with tenmille means that you can easily rebuild damaged sections.

How committed are you to 45mm? I am too far gone (in many ways) to change but if I was starting again I would have gone down a peco 32mm route.

[IrishPeter]

From my point of view 45mm is the 'one true faith' - I tend to be a 3' - Metre Gauge - CAP Gauge man. Anything below (scale) 2'6" is strictly for special cases.

Peter in AZ

[Soar Valley Light]

I resemble that allegation!

[Hagen]

Peco makes joiners for that.
There is no noticeable difference from any other track joint.

However, the Peco track needs a slightly higher base. You make up for the height difference below the sleepers.

To combine other profiles MicroMark makes some combination pieces, but it's probably just as easy to make your own by cutting a small piece off each type and soldering them together.
Almost like you would a changeover car for different couplers.

I use mostly code 200 gauge one Peco and it works quite well with Märklin and Hübner using the Märklin joiners.
To go up to 250 that I also have (Micro mark and Peco) I use a combination piece as described above.

Just remember, all difference in height is made up for below the sleepers to ensure a smooth rail top.


Others may have different approaches