0-4-0 suggestions

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:05 pm

Hello,

I am looking for a new 0-4-0 loco that will deal with Peco ST605 curves much easier then 0-6-0 engines.

My Regner Chaloner works perfectly round tight bends as it geared so would, for example, an Accucraft Ragleth on R/C be alright?

It would be good to hear from others who have a small line and what they run.

Many thanks,

Tom

laurence703 · Post by **laurence703** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:09 pm

I've run my caradoc around mamod track and it seemed happy enough.

steamie1 · Post by **steamie1** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:39 pm

I have Peco 605 on my line and we have a Roundhouse Charles a Ragleth and various Mamods Oh and a and a modified Tom Rolt. ( I reduced the pivot on the pony truck to stop it hitting the chassis.

They all go round fine. I used to have a Lawley which surprisingling went round. Betrie Millie Katie all go round on steam ups. Countess was a no no. Lady Anne went round but slowed down.

Ragleths are good and heavy with a short wheel base. Thums up. Charles is great too.

Hope it helps.

KjellAn · Post by **KjellAn** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:58 pm

On the Pine Hill Railway (PHRy) (http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about5153.html) with 32mm gauge - the most 0-4-0 Roundhouse engines will do all the sharp curves (750 and 900mm radius) with no problems. I have a Billy, a Silver Lady, and a Little John.
Last year I put in a new Peco turnout with 900 radius, and the only engine who struggled was a Tom Rolt.
Due to the sharp curves on the line, I prefer short 4-wheel wagons, and short (less than 400mm) boggie-coaches.

steamie1 · Post by **steamie1** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:36 pm

Ahh! yes, come to mention it, the accucraft 4 wheel coaches did not go round, with out shortening wheel base, then they looked wrong and were given away. Watch long wheel base rolling stock as Kjell says.

By the way Tom Rolts rear pony truck is the issue all one has to do is drill another hole so the pivot point is shorter. One can still put it back for looks later. Only a rivet counter would detect it and the ability to move it back to the original hole is great. Try the tight point with the pony truck removed first to make sure its worth doing.

Gremlin · Post by **Gremlin** » Tue Aug 19, 2014 8:55 pm

I've got 30" curves and tend to have smaller engines. My Accucraft 0-4-0 engines are manual and can be set to go round without stopping, R/C would be a bonus. Leader has a very short wheel base so might worth considering.
Good news on Charles, I thought the wheelbase looked quite long, could be tempted by one of those

steamie1 · Post by **steamie1** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:47 am

On the whole I think Accucraft are stronger engines being heavier in materials, only the noisy burners letting them down a tad.
Charles takes then bends very well and is slow and even. With the chuff he is noisy. I only have him manual and don't realy like R/C anymore. Check him out if your tempted.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Mfg-ka ... KbJ9dnDnek
My Charles is truly a lovely little engine and if I had to sell the lot Charles would be the last to go....No I think he would stay and I put the wife on Ebay! Ha![url]

steamie1 · Post by **steamie1** » Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:53 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yq1jT7- ... UL9Ykhx0UL

A Ragleth Video for TOM On Peco 605 set curves (Just to get the juices flowing)

By the way I'm changing some of my 605 to 607 and there is not a vast difference only slight. Why didn't Peco make 4ft Radius in the first place?

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 2:25 pm

Thanks for the video, great runner.

Took the plunge with Accucraft (even the other half agreed - mental note make loco purchases after expensive home improvements planned by partner to justify cost) he he

So, should hopefully have a Ragleth power unit by the weekend. It's from last years batch so got it cheaper than current price (last one left!)

I would like to keep it manual but will have to see how well it runs on my line. This one will go 7/8ths as there is loads out there off the shelf to fit so will start a project thread soon.

I watched all Chris Bird's great videos on the Ragleth but if anyone else has any advice on running it I would be grateful.

LnBmad · Post by **LnBmad** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:19 pm

tom, if you follow chris' videos your ragleth unit will run sweet and should be able to stay manual comfortably aswell.

steamie1 · Post by **steamie1** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 4:50 pm

Worth running it in. Roudhouse get an awful lot of running on an airline before it is sold, Accy's don't. Lovely strong loco.

Gremlin · Post by **Gremlin** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:18 pm

I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with this project. Are mikes models still doing the body kits

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:02 pm

Gremlin:103541 wrote:I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with this project. Are mikes models still doing the body kits

Yes, they are (but with no pictures at the moment)

Chris Cairns · Post by **Chris Cairns** » Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:04 am

Hello Tom,

Not had time to update my Ragleth discussion ( http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/about8744.html ) but as I've managed to run it every Sunday recently when I get a break from my full size footplate duties, here are my observations with running this loco.

Boiler Water Level - Being used to either a sight glass window or tube, or a water level plug, I'm not a fan of the water level check valve used by Accucraft although it works OK. I've not worked out the exact quantity yet but I put water into the boiler with the water filler plug & safety valve removed up to the top level of the boiler barrel. I then use a syringe with a blunted needle to remove approx. 48mls. This seems to give about the right amount as there is then very little water pushed out through the check valve.

Gas Burner - One of the weaknesses of the Accucraft design as clearly illustrated in Chris Bird's videos. The filler is right at the top of the tank and above the take-off thus you have problems with liquid gas initially. The accepted method is to bleed off the liquid gas first (and there was quite a lot in Chris's 1st 2 videos) but that is only practical if you have a separate light up area or no other locos nearby being fired. Our indoor 45m layout does not allow me to bleed off that liquid gas (due to the adjacent live running line) so about 50% of the time the burner will go out just after lighting up. As also seen in Chris's video the burner will initially pulse as well, but once the pulsing has gone you can turn it up (I set mine 1/4 of a turn from closed to raise steam on butane only indoors). I find the burner is quite slow raising steam compared to other manufacturers and is probably because the poker burner is mounted with the open part pointing down - Accucraft explains that this is to direct heat to the bottom of the boiler to cater for boiler low water conditions. Mine takes about 6 mins for steam to come out of the check valve, then approx. another 3 mins to get to working pressure. I was recommended to replace the Accucraft jet on my Edrig with one of the replacement jets from Chuffed2Bits ( http://www.chuffed2bits.com/page9.html ) but the Ragleth burner works OK once warmed up and is quieter than my Edrig burner. I find a small inspection mirror ideal to monitor the burner initially with the smoke box door open (instructions say to leave it open for up to 2 minutes).

Radio Control - As our indoor 45mm layout is not ideal for running manual locomotives I fitted single channel R/C to the reverser control. The Ragleth now comes with a hole in the cab floor for mounting a second channel on the regulator, but with the mini servo & power switch protruding into the 'box' between the chassis frames it leaves little space for a receiver & standard battery pack (which is why the 2014 Ragleth has longer side tanks). The instructions say to open the regulator about 1/2 a turn when running single channel but I find the regulator control is quite coarse and I still experimenting with how little I need to open the regulator for running on a level layout. Last Sunday the TX batteries went below operating voltage so I ended up with the loco running manually with just less than 1/4 turn open regulator & approx. half forward reverser pulling 6 Accucraft wagons, thus proving it is a very capable manual locomotive but could benefit from a finer steam regulator. The one offered by The Train Department has had good reviews recently - http://www.thetraindepartment.com/ttd-upgrade-valves/

Steam Oil Usage - The Edrig was known for using too much steam oil, and mine used to run around with a very distinctive 'blue' exhaust (I've finally found the right diameter wire to reduce the size of the steam pipe hole in the lubricator). They have corrected this problem on the Ragleth but I would still recommend regularly cleaning the residual steam oil off the boiler front plate, smoke box interior & the top of the reverser valve block. Watch Chris's video here at 07:06 to see the steam oil burning off in the smoke box - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWgpMiQeq0s

Short Wheelbase - I've experienced 2 minor problems with our 45mm layout which is being caused by the locomotive drifting out on tight curves. 1st is usually when running light engine from the preparation sidings to couple up to the rolling stock in the station area. Despite not being as wide as the mainly Roundhouse locos that run on this layout there is a slightly tight change in the curve going through a scenic cutting where the buffer beam drifts out enough to clip the scenery (fortunately it is painted polystyrene block). 2nd problem is the chopper coupling occasionally uncoupling from the leading Accucraft flat wagon, which has the chopper blade removed from its front coupling, on the 2 tight parts of the curves (one being the same one as above). Solution to this problem is to put a link chain across the couplings onto the hooks to stop the blade lifting when the loco drifts sideways on those curves.

Chris Cairns

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Fri Aug 22, 2014 8:53 pm

Excellent notes Chris, thank you.

Do I really need to buy Accucraft steam oil or can I use the Roundhouse stuff? My Regner runs on the RH oil with no issues.

Chris Cairns · Post by **Chris Cairns** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:40 am

I knew we had discussed this before but the Search facility on here is useless. Fortunately performing a Forum specific Google search came up trumps - http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/view ... 88&start=0

So it is ISO 460 steam oil for Accucraft's.

Chris Cairns

tom_tom_go · Post by **tom_tom_go** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 1:35 pm

Glad I checked.

Dream Steam have good offer on at the moment so ordered from them along with some more RH oil.

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