Quartering Quandary
- Andrew
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Quartering Quandary
Hello!
I'm currently enjoying tinkering about with my Regner Konrad, undertaking a few minor jobs that will include repainting the red frames in black. While I'm at it I though it would be nice to give the rods and cranks a coat of red. In order to do that I'll need to take them off, which isn't a problem, but I'm more worried about putting them back on. How tricky is it to get the quartering* right? Is there much room for manoeuvre or will I stuff the whole thing up if I don't get it spot on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated...
Cheers,
Andrew
* "Quartering" is the right word for getting the cranks on each side of the loco in the right position relative to each other, isn't it?
I'm currently enjoying tinkering about with my Regner Konrad, undertaking a few minor jobs that will include repainting the red frames in black. While I'm at it I though it would be nice to give the rods and cranks a coat of red. In order to do that I'll need to take them off, which isn't a problem, but I'm more worried about putting them back on. How tricky is it to get the quartering* right? Is there much room for manoeuvre or will I stuff the whole thing up if I don't get it spot on? Any thoughts would be much appreciated...
Cheers,
Andrew
* "Quartering" is the right word for getting the cranks on each side of the loco in the right position relative to each other, isn't it?
-
Big Jim
Quartering can be a bit of a swine, I would suggest marking the axles and cranks, but if you are painting them that might be a problem. Just do one side at a time. I have seen people using a set square to set them up (90 degree line through the middle of the axle and crank) but a bit of fiddling normally works for me.
- Andrew
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- tom_tom_go
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- Chris Cairns
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You should be able to do this easily to your Regner Konrad as the crank positions do not control the piston/valve timing (Quartering) but rather are just used to transfer the drive from one axle to the other.
On my 2nd hand Regner Lumber Jack kit the wheels and cranks had not been placed evenly across the axles, so I removed the cranks, wheels & axles, and after cleaning up the axles, etc. refitted everything with one side's cranks placed at 90 degrees to the other side. This loco has since proved to be a very good runner.
Recently obtained a 2nd hand Regner Vincent and this is being prepared for running at the forthcoming Peterborough show. After reading this discussion I had a look at the cranks to find one that was not set properly. So again one side's cranks have been set at 90 degrees to the other side.
There are no dimples on the axles for the grub screws on my Regner locos but they are easy to place using the supplied allen key for adjusting the gauge. Just make sure you leave a very slight amount of free play sideways on the axles - on my Regner locos there are washers behind the cranks.
Chris Cairns
On my 2nd hand Regner Lumber Jack kit the wheels and cranks had not been placed evenly across the axles, so I removed the cranks, wheels & axles, and after cleaning up the axles, etc. refitted everything with one side's cranks placed at 90 degrees to the other side. This loco has since proved to be a very good runner.
Recently obtained a 2nd hand Regner Vincent and this is being prepared for running at the forthcoming Peterborough show. After reading this discussion I had a look at the cranks to find one that was not set properly. So again one side's cranks have been set at 90 degrees to the other side.
There are no dimples on the axles for the grub screws on my Regner locos but they are easy to place using the supplied allen key for adjusting the gauge. Just make sure you leave a very slight amount of free play sideways on the axles - on my Regner locos there are washers behind the cranks.
Chris Cairns
- Andrew
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