16mm scale Jenbach JW15 loco

[FWLR]

This is a neat little loco I think.

I hope I have done this right. Please tell me if I haven't.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4791959/files
License
16mm scale Jenbach JW15 loco bykasoeis licensed under theCreative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commerciallicense.
By downloading this thing, you agree to abide by the license: Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives


I can't seem to load a photo. I am obversely doing something wrong....

[philipy]

Rod, I've edited your post to add the CC licence info from the Thingiverse page, which we ask people to do with thses links, to avoid any pirating as happened with my platform front.

To add the picture, you first need to download it from Thingiverse and save it to your phone/computer. Then upload it to your post on here.

[-steves-]

I have built this loco already.

Pro's

It goes together very well once you figure out how it goes together and that the body is only glued on to 4 very small bits poking out. One nut and bot holds it all together, well engineered.
It's direct 4WD
It looks great

Con's
Not clear how it goes together at first
If you use support when printing, then some of it is VERY difficult to remove effectively
The most massive downside it that it is built around a 4WD IP Chassis (£30 plus P&P), nothing else will fit and if you use the 12v version you have to make some very small modifications to the chassis. I have not tried the 3v version.
Mine runs on 2 x 14500 Li-Ion batteries giving 8.4v for the 12v motor
You need to fettle the IP Chassis for the gears to fit on properly

I do have my own better designed printed chassis and wheels, it uses 3mm axles and 4mm brass bushes for bearings rather than 1/8th. The motor is only available from IP Engineering at £5 each. You also need 2 x white plastic worm gears and 2 x 16mm 30 tooth white matching gears. The axle gears will need drilling out from 2mm if you buy them online.

I hope this info helps

[FWLR]

Sorry Phillip, I forgot to add that. How did you do it please. Is it the information on License and just copy and paste it.

45966B53-30C3-48F6-9A57-FD9E4E3445EE_4_5005_c.jpeg (21.36 KiB) Viewed 28074 times

[FWLR]

I have built this loco already.

Pro's

It goes together very well once you figure out how it goes together and that the body is only glued on to 4 very small bits poking out. One nut and bot holds it all together, well engineered.
It's direct 4WD
It looks great

Con's
Not clear how it goes together at first
If you use support when printing, then some of it is VERY difficult to remove effectively
The most massive downside it that it is built around a 4WD IP Chassis (£30 plus P&P), nothing else will fit and if you use the 12v version you have to make some very small modifications to the chassis. I have not tried the 3v version.
Mine runs on 2 x 14500 Li-Ion batteries giving 8.4v for the 12v motor
You need to fettle the IP Chassis for the gears to fit on properly

I do have my own better designed printed chassis and wheels, it uses 3mm axles and 4mm brass bushes for bearings rather than 1/8th. The motor is only available from IP Engineering at £5 each. You also need 2 x white plastic worm gears and 2 x 16mm 30 tooth white matching gears. The axle gears will need drilling out from 2mm if you buy them online.

I hope this info helps

Thanks Steve, that's great information. Maybe better with your superior design. Is it in the print files, or will I need to PM you.

[-steves-]

Drop me a PM and it will remind me when I am back home.

[philipy]

Sorry Phillip, I forgot to add that.

No prob.

How did you do it please. Is it the information on License and just copy and paste it.

Just copy and paste the bit I've outlined in red.

Screenshot 2021-04-23 11.47.08.png (261.25 KiB) Viewed 28062 times

[FWLR]

Thanks Phillip...

[FWLR]

Well I have finally got around to finishing the JW15. It's turned out ok I think, although there is no room to put anything else under the hood. The running of it is not that brilliant either even with the same motor I think that Steve got, it keeps on moving slightly forward, therefore binding and jamming...I printed another exhaust for it also.

984B03D3-40D2-4976-B76A-86E635C2D6FE.jpeg (2.61 MiB) Viewed 27805 times

7F1F9394-92F1-418F-8239-A6F41AE7F22E.jpeg (2.24 MiB) Viewed 27805 times

[FWLR]

It as my youngest grandsons name on it, which I also 3d printed.

1C183CD7-FA16-4594-AA20-ACA569DFA91F.jpeg (2.31 MiB) Viewed 27805 times

F06BE271-AB6E-4BCF-A2BE-185EA6E2C68D.jpeg (3.03 MiB) Viewed 27805 times

[FWLR]

Last photo sorry for doing it this way. I haven't been sleeping to good and I am really really tired.

015D6F09-24A9-45C2-9725-BF44EA605B2B.jpeg (2.28 MiB) Viewed 27806 times

07B2B7CB-04C8-425B-9346-58381CBE1D94.jpeg (3.69 MiB) Viewed 27806 times

Also while I had the hood under a desk lamp in the garage trying to help in the drying of the paint, it was throwing it down for 5 days up here when I decided to paint it with a rattle can, the heat from the lamp distorted the hood a bit. I think it makes it look better.....

[Andrew]

Looking good Rod!

It's a pain that it doesn't run as well as you'd like, but even if it just ends up as "scenery" (gently rusting at the end of a siding or as a load on a well wagon) that little loco's a great addition to your line. The garden's also looking very good, by the way - mine's a windswept wilderness at the moment!

Andrew.

[FWLR]

Thanks Andrew, your kind comment is very much appreciated

It does look good on the line I must admit. I will have one more go at trying to get it to run, maybe just run it with 2wd instead of 4wd......

[ge_rik]

It does look good on the line I must admit. I will have one more go at trying to get it to run, maybe just run it with 2wd instead of 4wd......

It certainly does look good, Rod. Good idea to start by removing the 4wd mechanism, then you can narrow down the reason for its running problems.

Rik

[-steves-]

Not sure how this can be binding or what on?

Did you use the 12v motor?

What voltage are you running it on?

Did you cut out all the areas above the worm drives?

Have you dropped some cyno down the sides of the motor after ensuring the motor wasn't too close to the axle gears? You can use packing to make it higher if necessary or sand it out to make it lower.

Did you make sure the axles turned freely before gluing the bushes in?

Did you ensure no cyno got inside the bushes?

Did the axles turn freely after gluing the bushes in?

That's all I can think of to help out as it's such a simple chassis design. There really isn't much this can bind on.

[philipy]

The running of it is not that brilliant either even with the same motor I think that Steve got, it keeps on moving slightly forward, therefore binding and jamming..

In addition to Rik and Steve's comments, I saw this bit earlier and wasn't 100% sure what you meant but you seem to be saying that the motor is moving within the chassis? In which case, fixing it in position has to be the first thing I'd try. FWIW I had a similar problem with my Wickham Trolley because there is only about 1mm clearance between motor and worm gear and I had to put a second pair of screws through the chassis into the motor mount to lock it.

I also wonder if the heat warping of the body hasn't also affected the chassis, perhaps by twisting it slightly as you tighten the screws? Does it still misbehave with the body off?

[FWLR]

Not sure how this can be binding or what on?

Did you use the 12v motor? Yes I did Steve.

What voltage are you running it on? 9v

Did you cut out all the areas above the worm drives? They weren't there after printing Steve

Have you dropped some cyno down the sides of the motor after ensuring the motor wasn't too close to the axle gears? You can use packing to make it higher if necessary or sand it out to make it lower. Haven't glued the motor Steve...

Did you make sure the axles turned freely before gluing the bushes in? Haven't glued them yet either.

Did you ensure no cyno got inside the bushes? No, has above Steve

Did the axles turn freely after gluing the bushes in? Haven't glued them yet also Steve

That's all I can think of to help out as it's such a simple chassis design. There really isn't much this can bind on.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for all those replies. I have answered your questions like that, it was easier for me. The drive gear is hitting the body floor when it starts up, so I really think I need to glue the motor to the chassis don't I, silly me......

I am also thinking of putting some small metal wheels on, so I haven't glued the axles or the bush's for that reason. I am going to try all those things later mate and report back to with a video when this blooming rain decides to stop for a few hours....

[FWLR]

The running of it is not that brilliant either even with the same motor I think that Steve got, it keeps on moving slightly forward, therefore binding and jamming..

In addition to Rik and Steve's comments, I saw this bit earlier and wasn't 100% sure what you meant but you seem to be saying that the motor is moving within the chassis? In which case, fixing it in position has to be the first thing I'd try. FWIW I had a similar problem with my Wickham Trolley because there is only about 1mm clearance between motor and worm gear and I had to put a second pair of screws through the chassis into the motor mount to lock it.

I also wonder if the heat warping of the body hasn't also affected the chassis, perhaps by twisting it slightly as you tighten the screws? Does it still misbehave with the body off?

Hi Phillip,

The motor is moving within the chassis you are correct in thinking that mate. I haven't glued it yet, my fault entirely...

The body doesn't have any effect on the chassis Phillip, it's a very tight squeeze inside the body, that's why you can probably see the body lifting ever so slightly on the photo. It really doesn't detract from the running or the looks of the little loco, in some ways it makes it look like it's had one heck of a working life....

[-steves-]

Hi Steve,

Thanks for all those replies. I have answered your questions like that, it was easier for me. The drive gear is hitting the body floor when it starts up, so I really think I need to glue the motor to the chassis don't I, silly me......

I am also thinking of putting some small metal wheels on, so I haven't glued the axles or the bush's for that reason. I am going to try all those things later mate and report back to with a video when this blooming rain decides to stop for a few hours....

Look forward to hearing back from you and see how things go. It is essential that the axles turn freely before and after gluing the bushes, otherwise they won't be inline with each other and will causing binding, as will a motor moving around

[FWLR]

Well I finally got it to run without it binding, it was a simple little cut needed in the chassis. The worm gear was hitting it a little bit therefore stopping it running.


Anyway here it is on our line, it's just a short video. Difficult holding a camera and moving points with one hand and videoing as members know when they have done it... Also near the end the sun was stopping me seeing were it was on the line.....






It has been a build I have really enjoyed and it is turned out better than expected. I used Amazon Basic's filament and have had no problems with it. No stringing, or any silliness with it at all. It came off the bed on the my Flashforge Adventure 3 very easy indeed. In fact everything I have printed with this filament has turned out well without any problems with the bed. I have only cleaned it about 3 times since I got my printer and that was with Isopropyl Alcohol. I don't have a lot left of it now and the price as shot up since COVID.....

Hope you like it. The grandson loves it, he hasn't seen it in real life yet. He lives in Stoke with his Mum & Dad.

PS
Thanks also to Steve for all your help. It was very helpful, thank you.

Also to Phillip and Rik, for you comments. They were also very helpful too.