Drilling holes in metal angle

[tom_tom_go]

I have some 10×10mm aluminium angle that I want to use as strapping for a wagon but I need to drill holes that will line up and then be able to produce identical pieces.

Making a template sounds the way to go but then how do you make the template accurate?

I have a pillar drill if that helps although I doubt it will accurately produce what I need as it was cheap.

[Busted Bricks]

Print it, stick it on with a glue stick, centerpunch, drill. That's how I do it.

[LNR]

I would get a strip of steel (thicker if possible than the aluminium) and drill the required holes in that such that it can be clamped inside the aluminium angle. Then use that as the drilling jig to make the holes in multiple pieces. Quick and rough pic. below.

Drilling jig.jpg (19.39 KiB) Viewed 80768 times

Grant.

[tom_tom_go]

I had that idea as well Grant but then how do you create your template piece accurately?

Maybe a combination of both ideas will work. Seems like a lot of effort though but then I guess that is why stuff like this ready made is expensive.

[LNR]

but then how do you create your template piece accurately?

Well I guess that comes down to experience Tom, a marking gauge would create the line then accurate measurement for the spacing. Using a jig, at least they will all be identical. Good luck.
Grant.

[philipy]

I had that idea as well Grant but then how do you create your template piece accurately?

Tom,
The laymans version of Grants suggestion, which works for me:

1) Coat the template blank with permanent marker and allow to dry.
2) Scribe the centre line using a pair of dividers with the legs set at odd lengths so you can run the longer one down the edge and mark with the shorter one.
3) Set the divider legs back to equal, and then adjust to the rivet centres that you want.
4) Mark the position of the first rivet by scribing a cross on the centre line.
5) Place one leg of the dividers on that cross, then wiggle it to mark the position of the next rivet on the centre line.
6) "Walk"the dividers down the centre line, scribing/marking each one as you go.
7) Centre pop each rivet position, then drill a small pilot for each hole, then open up to your finished size.

Sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than it is to actually do.

[Big Jim]

I second that. A set of dividers are one of those tools that once you have used them, you never know how you managed with out.

[tom_tom_go]

Divider set recommendations please as there are loads to choose from?

[Big Jim]

Silverline, Sealy or Draper should be okay and won't break the bank.

[GTB]

Divider set recommendations please as there are loads to choose from?

3" engineers dividers will do the job. I've also got a pair of 6" dividers, but can't remember when I last used the larger ones.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info%2dD3%2ehtml

You don't have to buy them off Chronos, there are other suppliers and the link is just to show you what you are looking for.

The specialist tool for marking out a set distance from an edge are called jenny calipers, but spring type engineers dividers will also do that job, as well as laying out a series of equal intervals.

If you don't already have some, also get a couple of small metal (not plastic) g-clamps to hold the jig in place while drilling the workpiece.

Regards,
Graeme

[tom_tom_go]

Thank you for all your replies, makes the forum worth hosting!

I will have a go and let you know how I get on.

[11thHour]

Here's something that somtime's works for me.
go to a $2.00 (1 pound?) shop and buy a cheep metal ruler.
Pick a spacing which will suit your purposes (every 'x' mm).
Clamp a fence on your pillar drill that is spaced the distance from the bit to the inside of the angle (or edge if piece to be drilled is flat).
Proceed to drill the ruler at your chosen intervals, you can 'feel' the markings on the ruler because they are eched into the surface.
Use the drilled ruler to mark the work with a centre punch or just a nail.
Of course this only works if your spacing is exact mm's or fractions of an inch.
Cheep, and you can maybe use it again.
Tim

[LNR]

That's a great piece of lateral thinking Tim.
Grant.

[Lonsdaler]

Here's something that somtime's works for me.
go to a $2.00 (1 pound?) shop and buy a cheep metal ruler.
Pick a spacing which will suit your purposes (every 'x' mm).
Clamp a fence on your pillar drill that is spaced the distance from the bit to the inside of the angle (or edge if piece to be drilled is flat).
Proceed to drill the ruler at your chosen intervals, you can 'feel' the markings on the ruler because they are eched into the surface.
Use the drilled ruler to mark the work with a centre punch or just a nail.
Of course this only works if your spacing is exact mm's or fractions of an inch.
Cheep, and you can maybe use it again.
Tim

What a good idea - filed for future use!

[Big Jim]

That is a plan of extreme cunningness.

[FWLR]

Brilliant Tim, and yes you would be able to use again, but i would drill a flat piece of Aluminium and use that has the template. You can always use the ruler again to drill out another piece if and when the 1st one gets unusable.

[Robert Hammond]

Sorry for the late reply but have just spotted this one. A useful little tool for scribing a line parallel to an edge is a pair of odd leg dividers, which has one leg with its end either curved or angled to run along the edge of the workpiece.

[ge_rik]

What a good idea - filed for future use!

Ditto (ie Wot he sed)

Rik
PS Blimey, just seen the original was posted in October - must have missed this one

[DonW]

A carpenters marking gauge will make a line parallel to an edge.

Don

[Busted Bricks]

Print it, stick it on with a glue stick, centerpunch, drill. That's how I do it.

That was before I got the laser - now I draw the holes in CAD and let the laser cut them