Delia Broom's rusting recipe

[bazzer42]

I hope this works as it will be post as I go. I had hoped to buy some more lgb tippers but some free busted bricks kits made a cheaper option.

Normally I would set to on an lgb tipper body with a paint stripping heat gun but for this one we will assume I've done that ( .5mm of styrene would probably dissolve to nothing).

The basic ingredient is iron powder. This was an ebay purchase nearly 2 years ago. When I spray the under coat i add a bit of powder to seams and sides to give some texture. A small amount in a teaspoon goes a long way and if done over a sheet of newspaper any loose powder goes back in the pot.

The tipper body will now get a top coat and a more intensive powering. I concentrate on the inside, assuming tipping and loading would take it's toll, and around the top of the outside where it might bash against the frame on tipping. No science to that it just looks ok to my eyes.

I top coat next and take pictures for another post.

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[Big Jim]

Thanks for starting this. I look forwards to part II.

[ge_rik]

Thanks for starting this. I look forwards to part II.

Ditto.

Incidentally, I'd also be interested in how you distort your LGB tipplers. The two which I tried melting were a disaster so I gave up.

Rik

[bazzer42]

Hi Rik, I use the rounded head of a bradawl or screwdriver after applying heat. You are correct, they are tough work to get any form of denting due to their thickness. The sides also have a tendency to bow in as push down so you end up having to correct that as well. Mine have a enough to look used but not sure whether the rust fools the eye more anyway.

Give me a Binnie body any day!

[FWLR]

Need to get some tipper’s and try this...

[bazzer42]

It's a marathon not a sprint, sorry for the slow build but this is the speed I work at! I have sprayed this tipper body with my favourite army painter yellow, before the paint dried a generous helping of iron filings was teaspooned over the body. I try and concentrate on the inside and upper body but it's more luck than anything else.

Before retiring to the boudoir tonight I will spray the body with dilute malt vinegar to start the rusting process. Hopefully I can spray the tipper chassis tomorrow so I can add some rust to that as well, with pictures!

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[Maple]

Very interested to see how this goes. Looking forward to the next photo

[bazzer42]

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Well an overnight spray with vinegar has worked its magic. I am tempted to rough up the iron in some places for a second spray. Once done the next step will be to tone down the yellow using the Modelmates sand. Previously I have painted this on and then washed it off but the tub does say can be diluted so I will try a diluted wash. Not sure whether to dilute with water or alcohol.

I am a fan of Model Mates and also the Humbrol weathering powders although they aren't waterproof they give a nice grubby look. Top tip - don't leave your lovely weathered diesel out in the rain A coat of varnish seems to lower the impact of the powders but I'm only ever likely to run in dry weather so no problem.

[FWLR]

It’s looking brilliant Derek, what % do you dilute your malt vinegar too.

Work bench is a bit like mine too, no sooner than i tidy it up and it is messed up again lol.

[bazzer42]

Rod, vinegar is probably 60/40 ish in favour of vinegar ( stronger if you are going to use it on your chips )

Mixing the Modelmates with alcohol didn't work as planned. The alcohol bleached the paint or removed it so I had white patches appearing. Cured that by a quick spray from the yellow can and then reverted to a quick splash of sand and then washing off.

The chassis and wheels were next. The wheels have received a coat of tamiya brown and then a sprinkle of iron powder (don't like bright wheels). Having sprayed the chassis I have used a cocktail stick to add pva glue to parts of the chassis and applied more iron powder to give some rusty patches and scrapes. It is a handy method to hide joints such as the tipper supports meeting the chassis. I then add thin scrapes along the top and bottom of the chassis around the "buffer".

After these have dried I used the hungrily brown earth weathering powder to dirty the paintwork. I then use the Model Mates rust red to tint the iron powder scrapes. I do like the colour of this wash and it will create nice rust scrapes on its own but usually requires a couple of coats to give it some depth.

I hope these pictures work. Next step is to add the wheels and weather the axleboxes. The third picture shows the iron powder scrapes.

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[tom_tom_go]

They look bang on!

[FWLR]

Wow, what a brilliant bit of weathering, the detailing of them is fantastic...

[Maple]

looks great, excellent weathering, may try myself