Track sizes, flange dimensions?

[flying scotsman]

Me again !  :lol:
Told you I'd be back...

OK , toying with plans and we have decided we are DEFINETLY going to start a garden train this year. Thanks in part to all the advice and tips I have been given here. Cheers folks!

Now, the next thing, as I like building things, is track. Ready made track is a flaming fortune! So I was researching the possibility of making my own.
I can woodwork fairly well, weld a little and work various materials.

But I need to know things like typical flange sizes for working in 16mm scale on 32mm gauge track.
I assume it's fairly easy to pick up a track setting gauge online but to decide on what way I'm going to do this I need to decide on materials. Aluminium and steel strip come to mind but also plastic extrusion mouldings are available in a huge array of shapes and sizes.

So where can I find sample dimension charts. Wheels flanges, clearances etc etc.?

Any help appreciated !  

[Peter Butler]

I am no expert on this matter but my advice to you is not to cut expense on your track... in the future you might well change your locomotives, your stock etc.... but, your track is the most permanent fixture you will have and you will rely upon it for satisfactory running. Any track faults at this stage is likely to put you off for life!

[steam Technology]

Have a look at this
http://modelandtoysteamdowunder.myfinef ... 0-asc-.php

[flying scotsman]

Thanks guys.
Peter, I understand what your saying but the budget just doesnt stretch to approximatley ten quid a meter. So home made is the way it has to be. I can turn my hand to most things so don't feel phased by this.

[Annie]

Now that is clever.

I think someone here in New Zealand built quite an extensive garden railway using aluminium bar section for rail.

[MDLR]

It might just pay you to buy a metre of Peco track and take your dimensions from that!

[GTB]

So where can I find sample dimension charts. Wheels flanges, clearances etc etc.?

SM32 wheel and track standards are a dog's breakfast.......

The Association publishes a recommended wheel profile but not a lot else, as most UK modellers seem to use commercial track.

http://www.16mm.org.uk/newsite/files/de ... tml#wheels

The Merioneth Society was into the SM32 game very early and their wheel and track standards can be found online here.

http://www.merionethrailwaysociety.com/ ... dards.html

Sam Evans has a discussion on the subject of wheel and track 'standards' for SM32 here.

http://www.wis.co.uk/andy/16mm/standard ... sions.html

Greg Hunter in Sydney laid his original track using aluminium strip and wooden sleepers.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/track.htm

Regards,
Graeme

[flying scotsman]

It might just pay you to buy a metre of Peco track and take your dimensions from that!

Yes that looks like a plan. Buy a wheelset, piece of track, maybe a RTR model and start from there.

[flying scotsman]

So where can I find sample dimension charts. Wheels flanges, clearances etc etc.?

SM32 wheel and track standards are a dog's breakfast.......

The Association publishes a recommended wheel profile but not a lot else, as most UK modellers seem to use commercial track.

http://www.16mm.org.uk/newsite/files/de ... tml#wheels

The Merioneth Society was into the SM32 game very early and their wheel and track standards can be found online here.

http://www.merionethrailwaysociety.com/ ... dards.html

Sam Evans has a discussion on the subject of wheel and track 'standards' for SM32 here.

http://www.wis.co.uk/andy/16mm/standard ... sions.html

Greg Hunter in Sydney laid his original track using aluminium strip and wooden sleepers.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/track.htm

Regards,
Graeme

Brilliant Graeme, many thanks!
Lots of stuff to help there.

[flying scotsman]

Now that is clever.  :D  

I think someone here in New Zealand built quite an extensive garden railway using aluminium bar section for rail.

Part of my thinking is also , like Peter pointed out, that getting track laid level and straight is very important, for any scale.

So my thinking is that long lengths of track, 2 to 3 meters without any joints, has got to be better than lots and lots of joints?

And curve to straight transitions can be better managed.

[andymctractor]

There are some impressive looking hand built track systems about but I have also seen a couple of very large garden railway set ups where using wood for sleepers has resulted in an almost complete rebuild. There is not exclusive agreement with me on this forum relating to my firmly held opinion that wood should not touch the ground.
I'm fairly confident that there will be someone that will want to send in a photo of an awe inspiring set up that has been in place for *** years with no problem but I have my reasons.

Can I wish you good luck with whatever methods you choose to use?

[Soar Valley Light]

Whatever you do, get the geometry right, both vertical and horizontal. It's fundamentally key to reliable track. You sound like you have the right approach with your reference to avoidance of joints and care in moving from curve to straight. Avoid 'following your nose', set the alignment and levels out carefully and accurately and you will be well rewarded.

[MDLR]

If you use wooden sleepers, you're getting as close as possible to having a "real railway". This means that however well your sleepers are treated, you will have to face spot re-sleepering each winter and relays with new sleepers at regular intervals. Unless you're wanting to do this, don't go there!

[TonyW]

Unless you're wanting to do this, don't go there!

I can only agree with Brian.

A good friend of mine spent an absolute fortune building his line on a raised trestle out of the best quality wood and board chosen specifically for its use outdoors. The timber warped, twisted and rotted to the extent that the line became almost unusable. Only a few years on he is currently spending another absolute fortune rebuilding his line in brick and concrete. What hasn't rotted away of the material purchased with the first absolute fortune has gone in a skip.

I built my first garden railway in 1989, and I quickly learnt of the joys - or otherwise - of using wood in its construction.

I am now on my third railway, and so is most of my track. There is no wood. Anywhere. Plastic yes, but no wood.

[andymctractor]

Unless you're wanting to do this, don't go there!

I can only agree with Brian.

Sigh. Still waiting for those in denial to suggest otherwise.

[andymctractor]

If you can't afford to set out your whole plan using Peco or other weather resistant system then buy as much track as you can afford and build it in stages. The chances are by the time you reach an expensive junction or the next station your plans will have changed anyway and you can work on your new plans. Get yourself a battery powered diesel and shunt what you've got while you save up your dosh for a steamy beasty when you have a longer run.

Good luck

[maxi-model]

From a purely mercenary angle - Buy a good established and accepted make of second hand plastic sleepered track, whatever gauge. If the hobby does not workout for you, and you haven't chopped it up into little itty bitty pieces and bent it out of shape, then you will be able to sell it for pretty well as much as you bought it (less cost of sale). Make it yourself and you might just make back the second hand cost of the rail. Your wood and labour go for nought.

You haven't mentioned what method of power - track, battery, live steam ? Max.

[stoker]

I'm new to this garden railway milarky, but I am actively researching the 'best' way to build.

Although 12'' to the foot railways are often built using wooden sleepers,these are laid on a properly prepared and drained base.Consider garden fences for a moment,we always used to use oak posts and larch based panels...walk along any fence built this way a few years later and try rocking the posts,I'll lay good money that you will find at least 50% of your posts rotted through at ground level.These days,pre-cast concrete posts and a pre-cast 'gravel board' is the way to do a job that will last.

My thoughts for track bed,based on current research(and I am listening to advice!)is to build a brick/concrete structure to about kitchen worktop hieght,for ease of operation/access,and to disguse this from the 'viewing' side by creating a rockery,so that the view that 'er indoors sees is pretty plant things growing among stones,perhaps with a waterfall,and trains meandering across the scene....
So the trackbed will be a lightwieght building block that plastic sleepers can be screwed to,then ballast can be laid on top.

Regarding track,Peco does look very expensive in our sizes,but LGB looks 'toylike'....until I studied several threads within the forum where the huge depth of LGB track has been concealed with plenty of ballast,is this the way to go?

[TonyW]

Other track suppliers are available: http://www.tenmille.com/16mmTrackHome.html

[stoker]

Other track suppliers are available: http://www.tenmille.com/16mmTrackHome.html

Also this guy;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penrhyn-Quarr ... Swm8VUvVtL