Garden Railway Forum

I do like the weathering on the door. Just where everyone's overalls would create scuffing and dirt upon entering. It's the little things that count.
Grant.

FBGR wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:02 am The Goo I use to stick foamboard to foamboard and plasicard to foamboard is Wickes Solvent Cement, made for sticking together plastic RWPs – you have to ask for it as it is kept behind the counter. Its about £4 for 125ml pot – it goes un-runny in the pot quite quickly if you leave the cap off.

JOhn

Thanks John. I've got some plastic foamboard but have been putting off using it as I wasn't sure how to glue it together.
Another question, do you score or impress the mortar courses?

Rik

Dear Rik

See page one

JOhn

FBGR wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2017 7:46 am Dear Rik

See page one

JOhn

Thanks John
Looks like a pack of screwdrivers with exchangeable heads is on the shopping list. Useful info about using butt joints rather than mitred too.
Now just trying to decide if my mill building will be constructed from sandstone blocks or bricks - in my part of the world they were either and in some cases both.
Rik

Yes Rik, and playing around with the different inserts can give you a few different finishes.

Don't start with a whole building, just do a bit of a wall to get the feel of the stuff, as here,
JOhn

FBGR wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:46 am Yes Rik, and playing around with the different inserts can give you a few different finishes.

Don't start with a whole building, just do a bit of a wall to get the feel of the stuff, as here,

JOhn

Excellent. Really impressed (sorry about the pun) with the worked-stone finishes you've achieved on that wall - I'm really fired-up to have a go myself.

Rik

John - this is great - the brick and stonework looks so good - I'm going to have to have a go

I know this post covers how you do it (mainly on page 1 folks ) BUT the next time you are doing a wall or something, could you take a few photos as you go, starting with the board unmarked, showing a pic of you scoring the mortar courses marking the sone etc - then your painting technique - will help me and i guess others so much - my brain needs to see pics to help do something new

Cheers


Mark

Yes markoteal, I could do that, and it would probably be best as a separate topic – next time I start something mainly foamboard perhaps, although the story of me filling up my scrap-bin until I have enough pieces that happen to fit together, and then slowly spilling paint over it may not suit everybody.

Foamboard has been used for some years, some of this was paper covered so not suitable for outside, but a lot of the techniques would be similar – see - http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/nouaillier_a.htm

JOhn

FBGR wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2017 6:12 pm
http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/nouaillier_a.htm

WOW!!!

Rik

Wot Rik said!

Those buildings are phenominal.

What Phillipy said!

I have always been impressed by the work at Pendon Museum but the building techniques on that site go to the next level and are just incredible.... the detailing is so good you could open the door and walk right in!

I'll get my coat!

That is soooooooooo good - you could use some of those pics mixed in with the real thing and you wouldn't be able to tell which was which

There is some good stuff out there, and if you don’t despair at never being able to get any where near the quality of these, you might just get a little inspiration.

Here is a couple more:

http://www.boredpanda.com/realistic-min ... an-france/

http://www.modvid.com.au/html/body_ande ... _day_.html
and there are others on this site.

AND of course there is also some regular contributors to this forum, who produce quality work that should encourage and inspire.

JOhn

Stunning - thanks for sharing - very inspirational

FBGR wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:02 am The Goo I use to stick foamboard to foamboard and plasicard to foamboard is Wickes Solvent Cement, made for sticking together plastic RWPs – you have to ask for it as it is kept behind the counter. Its about £4 for 125ml pot – it goes un-runny in the pot quite quickly if you leave the cap off.

Here is another pic of the latest building – the brickwork bond is a continental form, not your normal English Bond.

DSCF4250.JPG

JOhn

Hi John,
I'm just catching up with your endeavours - I'm a fan of foamboard myself, and you've achieved some lovely textures and finishes. I had to smile at this photo though. Did you know that the bond you have used is called 'English Bond'? Not as common as the 'normal' Stretcher bond so prevalent in UK brick construction, and I think was originally an Elizabethan introduction, and ironically seemingly more common in Europe than this country now. C'est la vie!

Another little building was taken down to the FBGR today, and the area of recently renewed decking is gradually becoming more populated.

This time something new (for me) was a corrugated iron shed. This was made using aluminium from backing trays, corrugated and formed over a foamboard and plasicard frame. The details are all plasticard and the base is foamboard. It will be interesting how this weathers.
Also today we investigated the apparent movement and deterioration of the old decking under the engine shed. This area had originally been constructed in 2009, using tantalised timber framework and decking fixed to the fence.
On uncovering we found that the timber had extensively rotted, even though a large air gap was provided underneath. Even the log roll that was supposed to have a ten year guarantee has not lasted
This area will now have to be completely rebuilt.

The opportunity will be taken to refurbish the fence building (factory and Hotel Post) and the arches.

JOhn

Interesting as I have a similar construction situation under Leawarra, though built with Baltic T&G flooring, covered with roofing felt and some 3ft. off the ground. I originally planned to seal each track pin but that proved impracticable and I've wondered how much water goes down the holes. I know some areas have rot but its been there 10 years and still looks good for many more years yet. Had yours actually collapsed or did you just know it was rotten and decide to repair it?
Grant.

Dear LNR,

We had been aware for a couple of years that some of the early timber-work on the FBGR had been deteriorating, and we had done some patch repairs to keep it looking tidy, but the collapse of one abutment where we have a lift-out bridge meant that we could no longer run trains over the whole railway, so that area had to be sorted – see 12th April above.

Having completed this (apart from the ongoing adding buildings etc. of the newly paved area) we moved on to the area of the loco shed.

This area was chosen because it looked quite bad, it could be done without restrictions on the running of trains except for a couple of sidings, and the Fence Buildings needed a repaint anyway. The extent of the deterioration was much greater than anticipated however.

Time and budget restrictions, and not yet knowing exectly how we are going to do some of the bits means we have no idea how long this area will take to rebuild.

What (and when) we do after the loco shed area we will decide later.

JOhn

Thanks for the explanation JOhn, I guess your railways in England see a tad more rain water than ours down here in Australia.
Grant.