IPE Coach Kits

[Spule 4]

Graeme, several good tips there including the sanding sealer and glue/stick on sanding block.

Gorilla super glue, I will have to look for that .

TIP, their NORMAL (not the super glue you list) is an expanding type and not really suited for modelling as a friend found out with unfortunate results.

[GTB]

TIP, their NORMAL (not the super glue you list) is an expanding type and not really suited for modelling as a friend found out with unfortunate results.

Yes, that also turned up locally recently. Looking at their website the original 'Gorilla Glue' is a polyurethane type, which I'd automatically avoid anyway.

What happened when your friend used it, did the parts move around as it was setting?

I've seen articles on using these polyurethane glues for furniture making in the woodworking magazine I read, but they always made a point of it needing adequate clamping, or things go south in a hurry.......

Graeme

[Steven.T]

The gorilla glue I have used expands a little as it dries, so is best used very sparingly!

[MDLR]

Out of interest, have you tried gluing gorillas with it??

[Spule 4]

Graeme, several good tips there including the sanding sealer and glue/stick on sanding block.

Gorilla super glue, I will have to look for that .

TIP, their NORMAL (not the super glue you list) is an expanding type and not really suited for modelling as a friend found out with unfortunate results.

[vjoneslong5040]

I've built a couple of IP kits (including Tallyin Coach No 1) and not had any problems with them. The only issue I've had is the floor has warped once I've been gluing (possibly because I've clamped the floor to my workbench which may not be entirely square!).

Tallyin Coach No 1/2 is a pretty good kit, though I had a little issue forming the curve (tumblehome?) at the bottom of the sides. The first time I bent the wood it sprang out at the top. In the end, I clamped the top, let the glue go off, and then fixed the bottom, taking about a week to fix both sides (with drying time). Looks okay though, will try and take a photo when I get home!

The other thing is the plastic roof can be a pain. A friend bought about 6 freelance coach kits and the roofs were a right pain to get on. When I came to mine, I bought the roof fitting jig which helped slightly. I did try heating the plastic, putting it in boiling water, rolling it with a rolling pin (got some weird looks for that), and shouting obscenities at it all no avail. I eventually got enough of curve but I'm not overly happy with it. I might try making the roof out of wood next time.

BW,

Matthew

[MDLR]

I might try making the roof out of wood next time.

That's worked for me - alternate strips of spruce stained pine and mahogany taped on the UNDERSIDE, then smothered with PVA on the outside and left to dry taped to the body in a warm place. Cover with model aircraft tissue and Robert is your father's Brother!

[Marquis DeCarabas]

Tallyin Coach No 1/2 is a pretty good kit, though I had a little issue forming the curve (tumblehome?) at the bottom of the sides. The first time I bent the wood it sprang out at the top. In the end, I clamped the top, let the glue go off, and then fixed the bottom, taking about a week to fix both sides (with drying time). Looks okay though, will try and take a photo when I get home!

Talyllyn [1], please! (only because they are my former employers!) The tumblehomes on the real thing are a bit of a pain too - the frames are slotted to take hessian-backed mahogany panels and you have to tap them in very gently from above - more so if you're moving one of the original panels as they are so brittle.

With model tumblehomes I've had a small amount of success in the past with very gently scoring - using the back of a stanley knife blade a series of parallel lines on the inside of the tumblehome, you don't need to go very deep just enough to allow the ply to flex. The same can be applied to roofs.

The other thing is the plastic roof can be a pain. A friend bought about 6 freelance coach kits and the roofs were a right pain to get on. When I came to mine, I bought the roof fitting jig which helped slightly. I did try heating the plastic, putting it in boiling water, rolling it with a rolling pin (got some weird looks for that), and shouting obscenities at it all no avail. I eventually got enough of curve but I'm not overly happy with it. I might try making the roof out of wood next time.

Further to what Brian has said I'd recommend having a go with the spruce strips - they're cheap as chips in most art shops: I think I paid 58p each for suitable 'planks' in my local supplier, and making the roof on top of the ends. Rob Bennett also gives a good example of making a removeable roof in the 16mm handbook for Lord Penrhyn's saloon - that uses strips of thin ply glued down with additional curved strakes. The whole thing is constructed on the vehicle using tin foil as a barrier that you can shape.

The (now sadly unavailable) CRV kit form IP also constructs the turtle-roof from strips of wood - I'd imagine that that would be a real black art to do in one piece of Plastikard!

Gluing tissue on the roof also gives a more 'protoypical' look, especially for the Brown, Marshalls as they are largely still white lead and canvas roofs. I've spent a fair few hours on the real roof slapping on white lead.

[1] or 56.1456.12.1236.34.56,12

[MDLR]

[1] or 56.1456.12.1236.34.56,12  ;)

?????

[dougrail]

Rebuilt so many times we're not so sure... [right, MDC?]

[Marquis DeCarabas]

[1] or 56.1456.12.1236.34.56,12  ;)

?????

Place Notation.