IP Engineering Rail Bus
IP Engineering Rail Bus
I have just purchased the IP Engineering Rail Bus, and it would seem that it is 3 volt power. First if anybody has any general advice comments these would welcome -thanks . However the real reason for the post is remote control, and sound. Can anybody recommend an R/C and sound card for this low voltage, many thanks in anticipation
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Personally I would just swap the motor out for an equivalent size but with a higher voltage, MFA Como will do something.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Steve, certainly sounds like a plan, I will investigate once it arrives
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
I would guess it's going to be a 280 size motor. From MFA you can get as 12v-24v, which happily runs around 12v without issue )that's what I generally use) or you can also get a 3v-6v in the same size. If its a 285 size then you can get a 6v-15v.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Steve the spec indeed does say 280, so a 12 v - 24 v replacement motor is about £3.00
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
See, awesome isn't it, I love forums for the sharing of information.
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
As has been said, you can swap the motor for a higher voltage model.
I guess it probably comes with a 2 x AA battery holder? So you should be able to get a pair of 14500 Li-ion cells in the space that would have taken.
You may be able to squirrel - away a third cell, under the chassis somewhere?
Phil. P
I guess it probably comes with a 2 x AA battery holder? So you should be able to get a pair of 14500 Li-ion cells in the space that would have taken.
You may be able to squirrel - away a third cell, under the chassis somewhere?
Phil. P
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
I will await and see what arrives, but I am sure I will be able to fit Lithium batteries somewhere, and I will kept the forum updated on progressPhil.P wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 6:57 pm As has been said, you can swap the motor for a higher voltage model.
I guess it probably comes with a 2 x AA battery holder? So you should be able to get a pair of 14500 Li-ion cells in the space that would have taken.
You may be able to squirrel - away a third cell, under the chassis somewhere?
Phil. P
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Most soundcards run happily off two li ion cells, so you could always go for a 6-12v motor.
Rik
Rik
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
It may be possible to get a 6v-12c 280 size motor, but I know MFA Como don't do one in that size. They do a
1.5v to 3v
3v - 6v
12v -24v
For some reason they miss this important size out. However if you can get away with a slightly bigger motor you can use the 285 size which does come in a 6v-15v option. Strange but there you go, lol
Might be worth looking for a supplier of a 280 motor that comes in 6v - 12v? In fact, I just found one really quickly on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/26002517264, there are loads of suppliers though, this is just one example.
This is the cheapest I could find but is from China so if urgent it might not be any good, might get a few myself though https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
They look like a good find, Steve.
Rik
Rik
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Just be careful, the Mabuchi one from China appears to be a lower voltage range 5.0 - 9.6v
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
Philip
- -steves-
- Administrator
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:50 pm
- Location: Cambridge & Peterborough
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Indeed, but is more than enough for a 2s li-ionphilipy wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 1:17 pm Just be careful, the Mabuchi one from China appears to be a lower voltage range 5.0 - 9.6v
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mabuchi-RC-2 ... 1195.m1851
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
The kit has arrived, and all the parts seem in order. The motor is unmarked, but meets the physical size of a 280, so another trawl of the internet. I found a number of "branded" motors marked up with the voltage details and indeed 6 - 12v but these were all from Asia, cheap around £4.00 when p&p was added, however, I decided that the UK one, even though unmarked could be more cost effective at £4.50, especially as the imported ones could attract £8 - £12 courier fee, order so lets see what happens
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
So below is my Kit of Parts for the Railbus, and the instructions they look very comprehensive.
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please:
I will keep you updated, but only significant photos, but a full account will be on my blog, which I will link to.
I have a question for builders of these "wooden" kits, the instructions talk about using superglue or two-part epoxy, I would have though a good water proof PVA, thoughts please:
I will keep you updated, but only significant photos, but a full account will be on my blog, which I will link to.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
I've never actually built one although i do have a couple in stock to do and PVA would be my first thought. OTOH, superglue does set faster, IF you can keep it under control ( something I always find difficult).
Peter B is the expert with mdf kits.
Philip
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5297
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Expert.... no, experienced..... yes!
Like all simple questions there are numerous possible answers. I am a strong supporter of PVA adhesive and whenever I can I do prefer to use it. True it takes longer to set and needs to be held in position whist drying, it gives a stronger joint over its entire contact surface and is less likely to fracture if impacted. It may also help to dull the sound of hollow vehicles. I see no advantage in using waterproof PVA unless you are planning to completely seal your model both inside and out. MDF and thin plywood may be effected in humid conditions so I never use my stock in the rain and always store them in boxes.
Superglue does work very well on wooden kits and I frequently use it on kits from Jerry Irwin following his instructions on-line. It makes for quick and strong joints where mortise and tenon type fixings are located. It is also easy to remove excess adhesive by simply wiping away. A combination of the two adhesives is often the most suitable method but may take some experience to identify where to use either one.
I would not choose to use epoxy adhesive on wooden kits.
Useful tips .... do NOT use superglue to attach window glazing.
If painting overlays separately first, use 'Canopy Adhesive' to attach to the body panels.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Can I ask why Canopy Adhesive for overlays?
Is it because the items are both painted?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Is it because the items are both painted?
Thanks,
PhilP.
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Philip and Peter, many thanks, I will stick (pun wasn't intended) with PVA, I have some craft PVA that has worked well, and because of the relatively slow setting it gives my fat fingers time to "adjust" and clamp the work.Peter Butler wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:57 pmExpert.... no, experienced..... yes!
Like all simple questions there are numerous possible answers. I am a strong supporter of PVA adhesive and whenever I can I do prefer to use it. True it takes longer to set and needs to be held in position whist drying, it gives a stronger joint over its entire contact surface and is less likely to fracture if impacted. It may also help to dull the sound of hollow vehicles. I see no advantage in using waterproof PVA unless you are planning to completely seal your model both inside and out. MDF and thin plywood may be effected in humid conditions so I never use my stock in the rain and always store them in boxes.
Superglue does work very well on wooden kits and I frequently use it on kits from Jerry Irwin following his instructions on-line. It makes for quick and strong joints where mortise and tenon type fixings are located. It is also easy to remove excess adhesive by simply wiping away. A combination of the two adhesives is often the most suitable method but may take some experience to identify where to use either one.
I would not choose to use epoxy adhesive on wooden kits.
Useful tips .... do NOT use superglue to attach window glazing.
If painting overlays separately first, use 'Canopy Adhesive' to attach to the body panels.
Phil.P I think this is because it "fogs" the overlay, but I could be mistaken.
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5297
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Re: IP Engineering Rail Bus
Canopy adhesive is described as a.... 'flexible, clear, fast drying adhesive designed to bond plastics to almost anything'.
To my way of thinking, 'almost anything' incudes MDF or ply overlays when applied to a sealed or painted, smooth surface, plastic or not. I use it frequently, and it works.
It allows sufficient time to apply adhesive to even the largest overlays before drying, any excess can be removed with a damp cloth when wet, or by rubbing when dry, without leaving any residue.
If superglue is used for overlays, any excess cannot be removed without damaging and permanently marking painted surfaces.
To my way of thinking, 'almost anything' incudes MDF or ply overlays when applied to a sealed or painted, smooth surface, plastic or not. I use it frequently, and it works.
It allows sufficient time to apply adhesive to even the largest overlays before drying, any excess can be removed with a damp cloth when wet, or by rubbing when dry, without leaving any residue.
If superglue is used for overlays, any excess cannot be removed without damaging and permanently marking painted surfaces.
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest