How to scratch-build a 4 wheel wagon

[Peter Butler]

This is a 'how to'..... for a 4 wheel truck for a very special purpose on my railway.
It may seem unconventional and not the way you would normally work, however, I have built this way before and I can assure you it works!
First thing is to have the component parts.....



The wheelsets are not shown for clarity!

Next, bend some bits, glue some others and add plasticard as required.....









Stay with me on this one and you will eventually understand.

[Dr. Bond of the DVLR]

I look forward to finding out what this is all about - currently looks like a wagon that has seen a mouse, and is very scared of mice...

[sstjc]

Is it a version of Daddy Long Legs at Brighton...?

Barry

[DLRdan]

Interesting little wagon, looks like what happens when someone confuses centimetres with inches. Looking forward to the result.

[ge_rik]

I suspect some Emettry might be influencing the design ......



Rik

[Peter Butler]

Spot on Rik!
I'll try to give it some structure today so that its intended purpose becomes clear.

[ge_rik]

Spot on Rik!
I'll try to give it some structure today so that its intended purpose becomes clear.

Can't wait to see the outcome. I've always loved his railway stuff and might even be tempted to EMulate (sorry.... dreadful pun).

Rik

[Peter Butler]

I think I can unveil the project tonight. During the day today I have built the bodywork and given it a spray primer.







It has a load to carry which acts as a disguise...







Under the packing crate is the battery pack which will be linked by cable and sockets to each of my Emett locos which originally were track powered.



I still have to fit a speed controller, on/off switch, charging socket and take off point to connect each locomotive. Quite a bit more to do but I'll add to the thread as I go.

[sstjc]

Blimey.... That is stunning. Well done !

Barry

[ge_rik]

Marvellous, in both concept and design, and in execution!

Rik

[Big Jim]

Very clever Peter.

[Peter Butler]

Lots more detail today..... Painted, weathered, couplings and buffers added.





Underneath the crate is the battery pack as described earlier. The wooden barrel will be the grip for the speed controller (when installed) with room alongside for the on/off switch. I'm still deciding what type of connector to use between the wagon and locos. I like the 2.1mm dc power jacks as they are tidy and positive in connection. They are also easy to grip to plug in and out. If anyone has other suggestions I would like to hear from you!
Here is the wagon shown behind just two of my Emett locos to see how it looks....

[ge_rik]

Excellent stuff, Peter.
I too would be interested to hear suggestions about plugs and sockets between stock. I've been using servo plug/sockets for my railbus as I need three poles, but they're unsightly.

Rik

[philipy]

Guys,
I haven't tried it, but a suggestion might be to investigate miniature and micro usb plugs/sockets?
The sockets ought to be ok, recessed into or under one vehicle, but I'm not sure if the plug side of things can be obtained in small enough configuration.

[Peter Butler]

Hi Philip, thanks for the suggestion. I wonder though if your idea could be reversed, ie. fix the plug part underneath the vehicle and use the smaller socket part as a connector? That way it should be less obtrusive.

[philipy]

Peter,
I wondered about that. I know the sockets are available as pcb soldered mounting, but don't think I've ever seen one as an in-line version? However if they are, then the cover would again probably be sizeable, to allow for them rough handled being plugged and unplugged by 'the man in the street'.

The plug version is available in 'skeleton' form on e-bay and it might be possible to fabricate a smaller housing since we don't really need the precision necessary for data transfer.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rewireable-Mi ... 1c371ee04e

[williamfj]

You really don't hang about Peter, less than a week to build a wagon from scratch is very impressive, especially when the wagon is that good and something special as well!

[Peter Butler]

Thanks William, the way I operate is to think beforehand of what I want to achieve, discarding the things not suitable on the way! Once the plan of action is formed in my head I go for it with determination.
Because I work in my 'Engine Shed' (everyone should have shed!) I can concentrate on the project without any disturbance and spend hours there inspired by my layout and the sound of classical music for company. All very satisfying when the construction comes together as planned.

[Peter Butler]

I just couldn't wait so embarked on the connection system with what I had available..... and it works!!!!!
I have used 2.1 power jack and socket. The main concern was the size, however, because the connection is positive and simple to plug and unplug without resorting to leverage and the possibility of pulling the wires out of the socket, I devised a cunning plan.
The cable is permanently connected to the loco with the plug attached to the other end. It is just long enough to reach the power wagon allowing them the ability to take curves. Because the plug is about 40mm long it had to be concealed within the body of the truck. In order to achieve this I found a plastic tube exactly the right internal diameter to allow the plug to be pushed through it. The socket was bonded into the end of the tube so the plug is guided through the tube into it.



The tube is then cut to a suitable length so that only the flexible part of the cable outlet is visible giving enough to grip for removal.



A hole is cut in the buffer beam to the same internal diameter and the tube stuck firmly behind it and to the underside of the truck.





When connected it is not too obvious but the main thing is that it works well and achieves my objective of having all my locos able to be powered by one simple system. At least it will when I order more plugs!






In the absence of the speed controller I have connected directly to the battery and tested the system.... wonderful!

[GTB]

I too would be interested to hear suggestions about plugs and sockets between stock.

I use the arrangement shown in the photo below on my railcars for lighting trailers, or for connecting them in multiple unit as the occasion demands.

They are based on IC socket strips, which plug into themselves and can be cut to length for the desired no of connections. The side the wire is soldered to decides if it is a plug or a socket. The shrink tube over the connection is more for appearance than anything else.

Current rating of the strips is 1A from memory, which is adequate for low power models like railcars and small diseasels. Anything big enough to require more current should have space for onboard batteries in any case.

I also use these sockets behind a couple of small holes drilled in the rear wall of the trailers, to hide the tail light wiring. The leads of the LED in the tail light are just poked through the hole straight into the socket.

I buy mine locally from Jaycar, but something similar will be available from other suppliers. http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Activ ... y/p/PI6470

I also have some smaller ones that I use in HO for DCC connections between loco and tender that came from Farnells (now Element 14). I haven't tried it, but these are probably small enough to use as semi-scale jumper cables with the sockets mounted on the ends of vehicles and disguised with a polystyrene cover.



In this photo the lighting bus connection is the two pin plug with a spot of red paint on it to get the connection the right way around.

The MU plug is the three pin one, which is wired so that it can't be connected the wrong way around. The centre pin is positive and the two outer ones are negative, with a loop connecting them together.

The railcar in the photo has the MU socket permanently connected to the speed control, in parallel with the motor. The other railcar has a DPDT switch in it's motor leads, that connects the motor to either the MU socket, or the onboard speed controller, so the MU power can't feed back into the speed controller.

I rarely use the MU connection, but it kept me occupied for an afternoon working out how to make it reasonably failsafe......

Regards,
Graeme