Building of the PFLR

[IrishPeter]

Hitting it with the sharp end may just have knocked a little excess solder loose.

Re-reading your post I notice that you did not mention movement on the axle. I inferred that because I got off on a tangent about them not being regaugeable.

I would suggest that you wash, re-lubricate and run it a few more times. I think you have just been loosing some excess solder or whatever and that if you wash it off and stop poking it (how many times did you hear those words when you were a kid!) with a screw driver all should be well.

A bit of loose solder or whatever is not uncommon on a new(ish) loco. I usually thoroughly wash a new engine before running it to remove anything left over from manufacture.

Peter in AZ

[Dannypenguin]

Thanks for that, I'll give it a rub and a wash. Hopefully its just some solder, and no, I won't be poking it again! Also, the wheel doesn't move on the axle.

[IrishPeter]

That sounds like a plan. No unwanted movement is always good!

The nice thing about steam engines as opposed to electric rodents is that when something goes wrong - which is rare - it is easy to diagnose and cure. Provided a loco is kept reasonable clean and regularly lubricated it should last a life time. The parts most likely to wear out - 'O' rings, slip eccentrics and tyres are fairly easy to replace.

Peter in AZ

[Dannypenguin]

Lubrication is done before every running session, and is done with steam oil (see thread http://gardenrails.myfreeforum.org/sutr ... ght=#80736). Cleaning is done every so often to stop a build up of cr*p.

[IrishPeter]

Steam oil is far too heavy for lubricating the motion, and is formulated for use in locomotive cylinders where the temperature is about 140C and there is a lot of steam/water around.  Therefore it should only be used in the displacement lubricator.  Its stickiness attracts dust and grit increasing the wear on the external  moving parts of the locomotive.  I believe this is mentioned in the wee book they send you with every Roundhouse locomotive.

The motion needs to be lubricated with some sort of light lubricating oil - something like "3in1" or sewing machine oil will do the trick.  This has the neccessary properties in that it is relative 'thin' meaning it picks up relatively little dust and grit, and it is very slippery.  My recollection is that Sainsbury's and Asda are not as accomodating to steam enthusiasts as Wally-world and Fry's, but you should be able to pick up '3in1" in any hardware shop for a few Maggies or a couple of plugs.  FWIW, my local newsagent used to stock it next to the fags and lighter fuel when I was living in Lincolnshire, so keep your eye out - you may not have to run the gauntlet of Been and Queued!

Car lubricating oil is also unsuitable for use on a locomotive's motion as it is designed to work at high speeds (several thousand rpm rather than 250-300) and high temperatures, so is relative viscose at low temperatures - attacting grit and sh*t, and it contains lots of detergents which clean rather than lubricate.

Cheers,
Peter in AZ

[Dannypenguin]

Whoops, I just took the very confusing and conflicting advice from the thread I linked to... My Dad's got some 3 in 1 in the shed, so I use that in future.

[SapperAnt]

Ah. I think what might have happened is that most garden railfarers use the term "lubrication" and "lubricator" to refer to the steam oil used in the cylinders whilst oil/oiling round etc is for the motion.

Put simply:

Steam Oil = goeth in the lubricator (where present)

3in1 = goeth on the motion and axle boxes.

[Dannypenguin]

Thanks for that, I know now, and hopefully the running with steam oil hasn't done much if not any damage. The rub down will reveal all. Speaking of that, do I remove any metal flakes I can remove? I'm sorry if I'm asking loads of questions, I don't want to c*ck it up...

[Keith S]

Lubricating with steam oil did NOT do any damage. The whole loco gets quite hot in use anyway and the steam oil will have been quite adequate. You haven't run it for long enough for dirt to have had any effect on your bearings. Clean it with WD40, then oil it with 3-in-1 and carry on.

Also, the little flakes you're seeing on your wheel hubs are likely, as Peter says, left over from manufacture. If the wheel is not moving on the axle, then don't worry about it. Clean it and carry on. If, for some reason, the wheel is not secure on the axle, you will notice the engine running funny. If this is the case, send it to Roundhouse for repair. If this is not the case, stop worrying. Nothing is wrong with your engine, and even if there is, there isn't a whole lot else that can go wrong anyway. It's not like you can damage it further by running it. Just play with the engine, and if it ever starts running badly, send it in. Stop worrying. Oh, and stop hitting it with your screwdriver. Just wipe away those metal flakes and carry on. You didn't hurt it with the steam oil.

[Dannypenguin]

I don't mean to be rude but when you have spent the past four years of using all of your available money to save up for something, which is your pride and joy, would you be slightly worried if it was damaged?? I know it could be something left over from manufacture, its the most likely possibilty. I didn't hit it with the srewdriver, I tapped it to test it as Peter advised. I thank you for your advice about the steam oil, it was unlikely it had done any damage, but if your 14 and you are still learning about the maintenance and operation of a steam loco, its natural to ask questions.

[SapperAnt]

There is no such thing a stupid question.

If the bits of metal flake off let them flake off on their own accord. My only worried would be burrs (tiny bits of metal) from them getting into bearings. But I'd not go poking off the flakes....

[Dannypenguin]

There is no such thing a stupid question.

If the bits of metal flake off let them flake off on their own accord. My only worried would be burrs (tiny bits of metal) from them getting into bearings. But I'd not go poking off the flakes....

Thanks

[SapperAnt]

No worries.

ANd I totally understand what you mean about saving all your money to buy your pride and joy. I bought my Ragleth with money inherited from my mum......hence the name of the Ragleth, "Jane".

She and my dad had shares in an LMS "Black five" the tender of which was for years and years in a coal yard in Wakefield....she also had a little N gauge layout.

[Dannypenguin]

Wow, sounded like your Mum was very interested in trains, unlike mine! And the fact She and your Dad had shares in a Black Five... Wow...just, wow...

[SapperAnt]

I wish I knew which engine it was. I can't ask either of em.

A lot of my geekiness comes from ( and was encouraged by) my mum - Historical Reenactment, Trains, Dr Who, History... she was more my big sis than mum.

[Dannypenguin]

I'm sure if you contacted the owners of every Black Five with the names they might be able to help you?

[Keith S]

I'm not sure which part of my post made you feel like I was being rude to you. I just recognise the mood you are in from when I was 14. I can't remember what it was about in my case but I am quite familiar with the sensation of having done one minor thing a little incorrectly and then losing sleep over it. And some of the advice you get makes you feel even worse, like the advice never to use steam oil on bearings. Personally I think this advice is more about how expensive steam oil is than anything else: sure it's designed to work when it's hot, but the engine IS very hot. The other concern is that the sticky oil over time will collect abrasive dirt and wear out your bearings. The same thing will happen with any kind of oil if you don't clean your engine regularly.

I'm not sure, but I believe the basic series wheels are force-fit onto the axles, which might result in a little metal lifting around where the axle comes through the wheel hub. I believe this is all that is happening in your case.

I didn't mean to make you feel like you asked a silly question: I was trying to put your mind at ease, because I know how precious that engine must be to you. Frankly even if you are 40 years old, a Roundhouse engine for most people is a significant thing to have. The fact is that if you keep it clean, and it still runs nicely, then you haven't damaged it and you don't need to worry. They are very robust machines and there isn't a lot of ways damage can be "hidden" on a steam engine's running gear.

I've been enjoying your posts about your railway, and the "Bertie" is one of my favourite engines. Any condescension you may have detected in my previous post was due to the fact that on the internet, one can not communicate tone of voice. Please don't choose to be cross. This is a hobby forum, there is no reason for fighting or ill feeling.

[hussra]

I'm not sure, but I believe the basic series wheels are force-fit onto the axles, which might result in a little metal lifting around where the axle comes through the wheel hub. I believe this is all that is happening in your case.

There's a little grub screw (which appears to fit a 1.3mm Allen key.)

One of these years I have a crazy project to buy up a tatty, battered Bertie, discard the bodywork and rework as an 0-6-0 tender loco... Don't all offer at once, this year's funds are all committed to the railway extension.

[Dannypenguin]

Sorry, I comepletely mi-understood your post!  :oops:  I'm sorry if I offended you, and I was just coming on to post now an apology for how I said my reply.

I agree with you on the 'can not communicate tone of voice' thing, which is how I probably took it the wrong way. Again, I apologise, and I now understand how you were supposed to say it... I hope you will forgive me.

Anyways! Currently waiting from a reply from Brandbright regarding their wheels before I purchase a box van, a brake van, and a set of wheels and axleboxes for some flat wagons. Finally getting somewhere on the getting a train together front at last!

[Keith S]

All of my rolling stock is from IP engineering. I am tempted by the Brandbright kits, which look like they are a lot of fun to build, but it looks like you have to order the wheels and buffers separately and I find this a little annoying since I live in Canada and everything takes forever to get here.

Ever since I saw a "Bertie" on this forum that had been converted to Hackworth valve gear I have wanted one, and Chris Bird's videos on his "Bertie" modifications have not helped to change my mind about that.

The only trouble is the Roundhouse hackworth gear seems to require different cylinders, which in turn seem to require different holes in the frame, and by the time a person did all these modifications it seems to me like it might be easier and cheaper just to build a locomotive from scratch.

I'm looking forward to seeing your brandbright rolling stock; it might convince me to buy a kit or two myself. The IP ones are a little plain.