Time to build a railway...but where?

[Peter Butler]

Many thanks for the information Rik. Having watched the video I have now ordered the Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty to give it a try. I am surprised at how liquid it is..... reminds me of the medication I'm on!!!

[philipy]

The last lot of Squadron White that I got was nowhere near as good as it used to be, it was runny and didn't set properly. So I tried some of the DeLuxe Perfect stuff and found that disappointing as well, also runny and slow to set. I have read that it dissolves in water so you can't use wet n dry on it, but I haven't tried that.

[Peter Butler]

Since making enquiries on this Forum about modelling putty I am now inundated with YouTube videos on the subject! It is amazing how many products are available, although they do seem to be very similar in texture so far.
Can anyone advise on Tamiya putty please?

[Old Man Aaron]

I've never used Tamiya putty, but I can advise on my method for 3D printed parts.

I hit mine with a heavy coat (or two) of the cheapest aerosol filler primer I can find. If they're particularly rough, I might even attack them with a coarse emery board (or <200-grit sandpaper) beforehand. After spraying, I'll sand it back until I start hitting plastic, then dust off and give it another heavy coat of filler primer.
The idea is to fill the striations with filler primer, and sanding the top surface of the primer to be smooth - rather than tortuously sanding the hard plastic itself.
This way, I end up with parts showing zero print lines, for a minimum of time put in.

Certain parts, like the louvred door panels of my PDF Baldwin, I prefer to just bite the bullet and replace with scratchbuilt styrene and metal.

[GTB]

Can anyone advise on Tamiya putty please?

Unless they've also changed the formula recently, Tamiya grey putty works fine. The only problem I've ever had with it over the years is that once the tube is opened it dries hard before you can use all of it.

Tamiya sells several putty versions. I bought a tube of white recently to try, but haven't opened it yet.

Humbrol putty works OK as a filler, but it separates out in the tube into a sticky black liquid and a grey solid. I hadn't used the stuff in years, but it was all I could get during the shutdowns. Won't be buying another tube.....

I only use modelling putty for filling joints and small holes. For smoothing an uneven surface as you require, you might get best results from the 'knifing putty' used in automotive finishing. I've also seen it referred to as blade putty. Another automotive product that might work is spray putty. It's available in aerosol cans.

Graeme

[FWLR]

Sorry I am a bit late to reply Peter. I use Vallejo Plastic Putty, which I have found works brilliantly for me. You do need to take some care when sanding it down, but I only put thin layers on at a time. It takes a bit longer, but it's worth it.

I don't know if would be good for you though mate, because I know how quickly you build things..



https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-20-ml- ... 156&sr=8-1

[FWLR]

That reminds me that I bought a PDF 'Skylark" last year off them and I found that the finish wasn't that brilliant and I gave up on it because it's a pain to get right. Maybe I should give it another go and persevere with it. It's still in bits by the way.

I did use this though, Hycote Filler Primer before and after sanding down every time I did another layer pf the plastic putty.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HYCOTE-XUK602- ... r=1-1&th=1

[Peter Butler]

Thank you all for your advice, plenty there for me to experiment with and I will report results.
Rod, I am a great fan of the Hycote range of spray paint and lacquers. Their filler/primer has worked for me in the past but this seems to be an extreme case!

[FWLR]

I think personally Peter, that PDF although they do really great kits, they're printing does somewhat let them down a bit. Thats probably why I haven't got back to finishing my Skylark. I know others have done really good jobs on their own Skylark kits showing them on FB, but even that media has slowed down with the excitement of a new PDF kit. It seems that they bring out a new kit and people just want to be of first the ones to buy one.

I know I was for the Skylark...

Hope I haven't opened a can of spiders.....

[Phil.P]

They could be a victim of the technology bought into?

PDF Models were early into these mixed media offerings, so although the printers they use were good for their time, the technology (hence print-quality) has improved with newer models (of printer).

There does seem to be a bit of 'alchemy' required, to get the best results from these machines?

Phil.P

[Peter Butler]

Rod, don't get too disheartened about your 'Skylark' kit, I'm sure you can make a great job of it with a little work. That's what makes us modellers and not just kit builders!
I'm progressing well with my 'Wren' with encouragement from member's advice on suitable fillers, also by watching the vast number of videos on the subject, I never thought it would have so much coverage.
My filler has not yet arrived but there are areas I can prepare by sanding, and using alternative methods to disguise certain areas which, even using filler, would be difficult to disguise.
Here I have used a Plastikard liner to cover such areas.....

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Just to make life interesting, Peter's PDF construction video shows a different kit of parts, including motor and gearbox (and its location), cab roof etc....
The new motor is now situated vertically and fits into a hole in the underside of the boiler, therefore battery space, and access, is compromised. I have to think of a way to be able to separate the components (just in case!) without destroying the cab framework, which is designed to be glued in place.

[FWLR]

Hi Peter,

I'm not disheartened about my Skylark, it's just that I have other things that have needed my attention, like family and stuff. You know me though Peter, I get forgetful and until something or someone indirectly mentions things about what I have forgotten, do I remember what I was doing before....

Once I have got some other stuff done, one is the new line, I have almost finished put the sleepers in and the marine board for the top of the line. I have now taken the Skylark kit out from the storage area, ( the leave it here for now space ) so I won't forget it again.

I am sure you will find a way of separating the parts and you will turn out another amazing build.

[FWLR]

They could be a victim of the technology bought into?

PDF Models were early into these mixed media offerings, so although the printers they use were good for their time, the technology (hence print-quality) has improved with newer models (of printer).

There does seem to be a bit of 'alchemy' required, to get the best results from these machines?

Phil.P

I bought mine just before Peter passed and he had reported that is printers have been upgraded and it's still a great kit and it will be finished in my own snail pace time though Phil.

[gilfachphil]

I found when sanding the bigger components of PDF kits that using an orbital sander clamped upside down in my workmate and rotating the piece across the spinning disc worked best for me. However much I sanded there did seem to be some 'grain' marks and voids in the printed bits.

Phil

[Peter Butler]

Still no filler in the post, so I have made some progress with the parts I am satisfied with and attached just a few rivet heads.....

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It was easier to replace a number of printed parts with Plastikard and add bolt heads, such as cylinder tops. I think I have sorted out the location of batteries and receiver too, although my battery packs are also somewhere in the post!
Google search for similar Wren locomotives has shown up a huge variation in body styles and fittings, so I have a completely free rein when deciding what accessories to add.
I'm really getting pleasure from this build now.

[Andrew]

That's looking great - I do love a Wren!

[Phil.P]

You appear to have the 'French Mustard' version, of filler-primer. - Mine is a much brighter yellow. It must be the English version.

Phil.P

[FWLR]

So is mine, the filler-primer that is.

Looking fantastic already Peter, the post are a bit erratic around here at the moment. I have been waiting for some ply for 7 days now and still no sign of it coming.

[Peter Butler]

You appear to have the 'French Mustard' version, of filler-primer. - Mine is a much brighter yellow. It must be the English version.

Phil.P

I use Hycote filler primer so the lighter yellow might be the Halford's version, which is also good, but more expensive!

[Peter Butler]

My Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty arrived by courier this afternoon and I set about putting it to the test. It is a smooth paste and can be easily applied with a small blade or spatula. It dries quite quickly and is easy to sand with fine wet and dry paper. I haven't yet primed the surface but I feel confident it will give a satisfactory finish.... pictures tomorrow!
Meanwhile, the striations on the boiler and firebox were so pronounced I decided not to use the putty at all and wrap a thin Plastikard liner around the entire tube. This proved to be easier than expected and solves the problem nicely. It also makes the saddle tank fit more snugly and gives a better material surface to attach a re-designed cab front, which is part of my solution to make the boiler removeable for installing the battery pack.....

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This is before the cab front modification so that will also follow later.