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What track length should I use
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:58 am
by egdotcom
Hi - total newbie to garden rail - dream of many years about to eventuate.
I live in SE Australia where we can get hot days of high 30s for a few days and can sometimes get to zero overnight in the winter. So, I have abandoned the idea of OO after some tests - track just didn't survive

. Have chosen to go G Gauge, track probably LGB brass or a mix with Aristocraft.
Ready to purchase track but am unsure if I should be going for shorter lengths, say 1ft, 2ft or going flexible in longer lengths.
Given heat issues, what would be best choice to reduce track issues?
Also, any experiences/advice re Lilliput or Aristocraft 0-4-0 diesels?
My thanks for any assistance.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 9:16 pm
by IrishPeter
In North Central Arizona we gets temperatures anywhere from -20C up to 40C, and I have had no problems with 2'and 3' lengths of brass and aluminium rail. Not sure about 6' lengths. I am about to find out as I have some on order.
+Peter in AZ
Re: What track length should I use
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:22 am
by GTB
egdotcom:77550 wrote:I live in SE Australia where we can get hot days of high 30s for a few days and can sometimes get to zero overnight in the winter.
1 metre of brass rail will expand by about 1mm in length over that temperature range. Just leave adequate space for expansion in the joints.
The bigger issue for garden railway track in OZ is the very high UV level in summer. Some brands will be better than others in this respect, as it depends on how much UV stabiliser is in the plastic, but keep the track in the shade as much as possible and out of direct sunlight.
Regards,
Graeme
My thanks
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:49 am
by egdotcom
Thanks for comments - much appreciated.
Obviously something to really think about - rather than jump in, as I normally tend to do
The track will be electrified to give me the option to run battery/dcc - so comments re expansion welcomed.
Thanks again.
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 10:59 am
by MDLR
Watch what battery locos you run - IP Engineering ones come with metal axles and wheels!
Thanks
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:32 am
by egdotcom
Thanks for comments re IP. I would probably not run both together at same time (but probably will change mind later).
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:04 pm
by MDLR
Just don't put the DCC on with an IP loco = 1 fried power unit!
Thanks
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:12 pm
by egdotcom
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 4:07 pm
by IrishPeter
Ah, I had no clue what the rate of expansion was so I have been leaving 1/16th of an inch between ral end when laying trackin cold weather. However, as I 'float' my track on ballast there is room for things to shuffle slightly anyway.
Peter in AZ
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:21 pm
by TommyDodd
Don't forget that acoustics come into it too. The bigger the gap, the louder the clicketyclack. So much so that a friend who makes rail from steel strip (which effectively functions like CWR with no welded joints) files small V notches on his rails just for sound effects. It works magnificently, especially on his high girder bridge over a rockery- maximum echo!