Roundhouse Katie, buffer beam overlays

RetroCoder · Post by **RetroCoder** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:04 am

I have bought the buffer beam overlays for the Roundhouse Katie. These have a couple of holes where the screws pass through but I’d be interested to know if anyone sticks these brass overlays to the steel buffer beam as well as using the screws?

hussra · Post by **hussra** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:35 am

On my Millie I used a very thin smear of Araldite to secure the overlays. Otherwise you risk something catching the edge of the overlay, which is really rather thin, and bending it back. This would be bad for morale.

MDLR · Post by **MDLR** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:41 am

I just bolted mine on - never had a problem! The one time I did snag one, it bounced back into place without permanently bending. What I HAVE done is acquire some hex-headed bolts with "one size smaller" heads which look much better than the standard Roundhouse bolts.

Narrow Minded · Post by **Narrow Minded** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:13 am

I also went for "belt'n'braces", which brings the half time score to
Glewem 2, Bolton 1

RetroCoder · Post by **RetroCoder** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:17 am

Narrow Minded:65688 wrote:I also went for "belt'n'braces"

Did you use "Araldite" or some other glue?

Narrow Minded · Post by **Narrow Minded** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:22 am

RetroCoder:65689 wrote:
Narrow Minded:65688 wrote:I also went for "belt'n'braces"
Did you use "Araldite" or some other glue?

In my case, Araldite (or 2 part epoxy) equivalent, 'cos I'm a cheapskate!

taliesin · Post by **taliesin** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:55 am

Hi, with my Billy i used a thin smear of Araldite as well, maybe they do spring back in place if caught but i did not want to chance it, cheers Rob

RetroCoder · Post by **RetroCoder** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:57 am

taliesin:65694 wrote:Hi, with my Billy i used a thin smear of Araldite as well

Did you paint each item first or glue then paint?

taliesin · Post by **taliesin** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:03 pm

well. i purchased them ready painted, from memory only the front is painted and the rear was brass. so however Roundhouse supplied them was how i used them. Paint does not particularly like glue, but then neither does brass! its only there as an aid, the screws, or in my case hex head bolts do most of the work, cheers Rob

JMORG · Post by **JMORG** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 5:03 pm

When my father modified my Katie all those years ago, I think he used Araldite as well as the 2 screws (the originals replaced by Brandbright GVT style safety chains). The beams were also repainted black, and the overlays painted vermillion.

RetroCoder · Post by **RetroCoder** » Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:27 pm

I have Araldited the thin brass buffer beam overlay to my roundhouse Katie buffer beam. That went well so I cleaned it up and sprayed with etch primer. I then noticed that there are a couple of thin gaps where the glue didn’t weep out between the steel and brass overlay. The gap is thinner than a sheet of paper and less than a centimetre long. Any ideas on how to fill these small gaps and what to use?

Narrow Minded · Post by **Narrow Minded** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:02 am

You could use a filler of your choice - something like "Miliput".
Work it carefully over and into the gap then wipe away the excess before leaving it to set.

RetroCoder · Post by **RetroCoder** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:33 am

Hello,

Thanks for the advice. I’ve just ordered up some Milliput from eBay. Never used it before but reading about it, it looks like it may be handy for other jobs as well.

Ian

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Roundhouse Katie, buffer beam overlays

Roundhouse Katie, buffer beam overlays

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