Garden Railway Forum

I managed to get one of these kits from Locolines at the recent Merstham show.

Peter Longfils has produced an excellent guide to his build of a modified Wickham, which has provided inspiration for my build - http://www.rvlr.photos.gb.com/c1482682.html

I am going to build a rolling chassis from old plastic CD cases, which will have the battery box and a 3-way toggle switch (should look like a gear lever coming up through the centre consul) permanently fitted. As the body work will then just sit on top of this chassis, I need to get it built first as it will affect what holes need cutting in the Trolley floor which is actually the first item on the provided building instruction sheets.

I visited a local Pound shop to get a pack of cheap modelling knives, multi purpose glue & a black marker pen. At a local craft shop I got some plasti-kote Polyurethane varnish & a neat folding steel rule which has a cork backing to stop it sliding whilst marking, cutting, etc. Unfortunately I had not realised that the spray can did not have the nozzle fitted (kept behind counter to stop them being stolen for whatever reason) so I need to go back and get one of these, and I'll see if I can get some eyelets to use as axle bearings at the same time.

The black marker pen is too fluid like and bleeds through onto the printed side of the cardboard sheets. Here is the Trolley floor (if you look closely around the edges you will see the black marker bleed through) and one of the ends on which I've just cut out one of the windows, using a file to shape the curved corners.

I am hoping to build this kit whilst working in Aberdeen, and will hopefully be able to post a photo diary of progress here. I intend fitting a drivers chair (not part of the kit) and I already have a Modeltown driver figure waiting for his duties. I'd like to fit some sort of coupling so that I could use a trailer with this Wickham as well.

Wow, looks like it's guna be a good build! Look forward to seeing how it goes.

Good to see you've made a start, diamond files are good for filing card.

diamond files are good for filing card

That is what I'm using, my trusty Chinese files bought in Singapore years ago.

Not sure whether to double side the doors as Peter Longfils did. This requires printing off some more pieces but will my ink jet printer on photo paper be good enough to prevent running when sprayed with varnish?

The craft shop did not have big enough eyelets so I've just bought 100 off ebay (cheaper than buying them individually after adding postal costs on multiple items). Hopefully they will fit OK, and I'll have a few spare if anyone else is building these kits. edit Despite being listed as 4mm eyelets they were actually smaller and thus of no use. D'oh!

what are these kits made from Chris ??

Locolines wrote:These models are seriously sturdy and solid, ready-coloured and printed on 'high density laminated construction board' that is specifically bonded and pressed for us.

A form of sturdy cardboard, but not so user friendly in my experience.

Once I've taken some photos I'll post details of my disaster.

thanks mate
not sure that I would like a cardboard railcar

not sure that I would like a cardboard railcar

Well it is certainly not going to be wood or metal for a complete running kit that only costs £20.

I forgot to bring my batteries down from Aberdeen so will need to wait to post some more photos of this project, including the disaster.

I found the card rather nice to work with.

Locolines wrote:Using a good quality gloss or satin (your preference) polyurethane varnish, apply at least three light coats to the sheets and allow to dry fully for at least 24 hours. DO NOT 'SOAK' WITH VARNISH

And from a Yahoo group - Use PLASTIKOTE gloss or satin POLYURETHANE...... NOT acrylic.... This is used and recommended by Locolines themselves. (The gloss seems better, but don't worry.... it dries satin anyway) Roy (Locolines!)

So I purchased Plastikote Polyurethane Varnish Clear Satin, and thinking I would get a better water proof seal I sprayed the first pieces after cutting them from the sheet first. However some of the coloured paper lifted from the fibreboard, in some cases completely. Using simple mini clamps I glued this paper back on but the clamps left some indentations. So to fix the radiator which had completely came away from the fibreboard I used a flat face of a scrapper to stop these indentations, but unfortunately the glue soaked through and stuck the paper to the scrapper, ending up with this disaster.

I finished gluing the sides together, including the glazed panels (example of mini clamp shown here as well).

I have constructed some of the running chassis, using the plastic provided for the side panels and a piece of a CD jewel case for the floor which the rest of the trolley will rest on. This will have a 3-way single toggle switch fitted (coloured to look like a gear lever) and the battery pack glued on top as well (the scratch on the side panel was how I received it in the kit, but is only a scratch and not a crack).

I have just sprayed the sheet containing the pieces to make up the control panel and sides for the middle of the trolley, and again some of this paper has lifted from the fibreboard, after cutting the pieces out.

edit I will need to be very careful when glueing any coloured paper back onto these fibreboards to stop further damage.

See Roy from Locolines advice below.

Do NOT cut out any components prior to spraying with varnish then. I used acrylic laquer and allowed to dry for a good 24hrs, went fine. I couldn't source polyurethane varnish locally.

That is interesting, as Roy from Locolines states Do Not Use Acrylic, but both yourself and the late Pete Longfils used acrylic without problems.

Interestingly another owner used acrylic and made a mess of his kit which Roy offered to replace free of charge. I'll add my posting to that Topic on the Yahoo group to see what happens.

It was Peter's advice that I followed, after all how many of these kits had he already built? Including the variety designed by himself.

Just posting to the Yahoo group now.

If Roy from Locolines replies I will edit my postings in this topic if necessary.

OK Roy replied with the following on the Yahoo Group.

Locolines Kit tips from LOCOLINES

I've seen there are a few people who have had some problems with the varnishing aspect of the kits. If polyurethane spray is used before cutting, can held at around 20cm, and about 6 - 8 strokes to cover the sheet fairly quickly, there should be no problems.
In the past 4-5 years, literally hundreds of kits have been sold with no problems, but please, as I always say, if you mess up a part, let me know. I will ALWAYS replace the appropriate sheet at no cost to you. This even applies if you somehow spoil every sheet. (Which has happened, when someone brush coated everything very heavily.)

Also, remember the varnishing bit isn't essential anyway if you don't intend getting the kit wet in any way. Many people build the kits then carefully lightly spray varnish several coats afterwards.

Roy

http://www.locolines.net

So a single coat of polyurethane varnish is all that is needed. It is confusing as the Wickham instructions states 'three light coats' but the Ivor kit states one coat sufficient.

I've taken him up on his offer of a replacement sheet, and I've edited my above postings to reflect this advise.

I now have a replacement sheet on its way from Roy of Locolines. And my posting on the Yahoo Group has produced the following update concerning the instructions provided.

Locolines kits CLARIFICATION

I'm glad that someone has noticed a discrepancy in the instructions re: some kits say three light coats of varnish, some instructions say one coat.

This is an error on my part. Originally, the kits required three coats. I now use a very different kind of paper and model board for the kits which is almost waterproof in itself. The kits don't really need varnishing at all if you don't intend getting them wet, but I recommend 1 light coat of Polyurethane spray as a safety precaution. I only suggest Plastikote gloss (it dries satin/matt anyway) as this is what I use, and I've never had any problems.

I will go back over all my instructions print files and update them correctly: One light coat of polyurethane spray before cutting out, OR build the kit, then a light all-over spray when finished.

Roy

So I am glad that we have found the cause of my problems - it should have just been one light coat of varnish before cutting.

Replacement sheet with another radiator arrived from Locolines yesterday. An excellent after sales service.

Camera batteries have died now but here is my rolling chassis for the Wickham in action.



Just need to get a bracket made for mounting the 3-way switch and paint the clear plastic chassis. The plastic wheels have very little adhesion on my greasy Mamod track so I think a little weight at the front (batteries are over the un-powered axle) will be required. Not sure if it will be able to pull anything else.

Chris Cairns.

(edited to correct video link)