Garden Railway Forum

I have been messing around with my new 3D printer and have printed these. This is what was printing when the Ender3 V2 had its little accident.
Printed in PLA+ they are one of many sets that are planned to be used when I finally get around to build my storage tracks inside the shed.
Only thing I can fault is that the flange depth at the frog is to shallow but that can be overcome with a bit of filing.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976643

Going to team them with some of these
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:730499

First up I might put this set outside on the layout and stress test them to see if any wagon or loco doesn't like them and how they wear.

Looks great! I really like arockstone's models... modified versions of their wagon chassis carry a lot of my smaller stock, and my chain-and-hook coupling system is based on theirs (but shrunk a bit). I've tried some 3D printed track for indoor use but never tested it outdoors. Does PLA+ handle heat and UV exposure any better than plain PLA?

Out of curiosity Graeme, how long did that take to print?

philipy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 2:49 pm Out of curiosity Graeme, how long did that take to print?

Not exactly sure about around 31 hours + for all 5 parts.

From memory from Cura's estimate;
Part 1, the largest, was nearly 11 hours
Part 2 8-9 hours
Part 3 6-7 hours
Part 4 and 5 around 2 hours each
The curve was 1-2 hours.

I think I can get 5+ prints out of a roll

drewzero1 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 2:21 pm Looks great! I really like arockstone's models... modified versions of their wagon chassis carry a lot of my smaller stock, and my chain-and-hook coupling system is based on theirs (but shrunk a bit). I've tried some 3D printed track for indoor use but never tested it outdoors. Does PLA+ handle heat and UV exposure any better than plain PLA?

I have some PLA+ pieces that have been sitting outside in the weather for nearly 2 years now some pieces of grey colour are starting to show signs of deterioration while another which is black isn't.

We have 31C+ days in summer (and autumn as well like the last 3 days) and UV in the extreme range for the best part of the year.

GAP wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:01 pm
I have some PLA+ pieces that have been sitting outside in the weather for nearly 2 years now some pieces of grey colour are starting to show signs of deterioration while another which is black isn't.

We have 31C+ days in summer (and autumn as well like the last 3 days) and UV in the extreme range for the best part of the year.

Good to know! A retired engineer friend was just telling me that black PLA would be tougher than other colors because of the carbon in it. I didn't put much stock in that, doubting the color came from carbon and expecting worse because of absorbing solar heat, but your evidence seems to suggest he was on to something. That sounds like it should handle our weather, we typically have a few 31-34C weeks but mostly more like 25C. I'll have to do some outdoor tests to see what holds up!

I have just started to print another set of points I found on "Printables". The file names are in German but Google Translate was my friend.

https://www.printables.com/model/226398 ... 1805018150

I am starting with the Right Hand (RH) as that is what is on the site.
I have saved stl files for Left Hand (LH) I made them by opening the RH models in Tinkercad and using the mirror function. I have just noticed that Cura has a mirror function so I might give that a look, may only get GCode files and not stl ones.
If the RH ones look and work OK I'll give the LH ones a go.

I have also printed one of these clamp style rail joiners and tried it on the older set of points but it is higher than the sleepers so some packing would be required if I wanted to use them.
I will try it on the new set to see if it is compatible.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1766827/files

That creator has a lot of very interesting models available... bookmarking for later! It looks like they're actually Dutch but it's close enough to German that I can kind of understand

I was not real happy with some of the features of the first set of points I printed (Post#1);

1.Sleeper height to low for my track
2.Flange depth at frog way to shallow
3.Join right through the frog

I found these on the net and decided to print out one to see how it went.
https://www.printables.com/model/226398 ... 1805018150

They look to be the spitting of an LGB R5 point; the site only gives stl's for right hand points but I imported the files into Tinkercad and used the "mirror" function to get stl's for left hand ones.
I could have used the mirror function in Cura which would have given me G Code files but no stl's.

To assemble I will need some 2.75mm rod as alignment dowels and some small screws, for the dowels I'll try 2.75mm knitting needles (gauge 12) and for the screws a search of the net will be required probably screws used in electronics/robotics will be the place to look.

The print was a long one 92.5 hours, according to Octoprint for the 4 parts (I combined the point rails and change bar into one print), but it certainly did not go that long. I started Sunday morning and the last print was done on Tuesday morning, I only printed during the day and not overnight,

I think it might be worth printing some more to get some points for the inside the shed job I am planning.
Couple of small issues

1.The change bar in the file measures 4.6mm high but the slot it goes through is 4.4mm so I imported it into Tinkercad and when I did I had the option to change the dimensions so I changed to 4.4mm "length" and it went through easily.
2.The alignment slot where the point blades go into are a tight fit that require opening up a bit for the rails to slide into the slot, this lets the pivot screw holes to line up.

All this is really minor stuff that is easily fixed with a little application of modelling skill.

This is what I was looking at price wise if I went down the tailor made brass track route.
https://www.allaboardexclusive.com.au/l ... r5-15.html

I could have rolled my own but that would take just as much time if not more by the time I cut sleepers and rail, plus shaping the rail so I think and economical alternative.

I really didn't use a lot of filament in the scheme of things, probably get 4 or 5 sets per roll maybe more, the electricity came from the solar panels and the printer did the work while I was doing something else.

Some pictures of a rough assembly (no dowels or screws) showing what the finished article should look like. Again the points lever will get a look in (might even bash it in Tinkercad so the fits the point)

They certainly look the biz, Graeme.

philipy wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2023 8:52 am They certainly look the biz, Graeme.

Much better than the first ones I printed

Very interesting!

Rik

I am working on modifying the part with the change bar to incorporate the points lever using tinkercad.
If it works out OK I'll post a picture.

GAP wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2023 9:38 pm I am working on modifying the part with the change bar to incorporate the points lever using tinkercad.
If it works out OK I'll post a picture.

As promised a picture of my attempt to incorporate the points lever into the change bar area.
This is a proof of concept print, I still have to work out a rod from the lever to the change bar.
A bit more tinkering I think.

Slowly sowly catchee monkey!

Seriously though, the lever looks a bit close to the rail? When it's thrown over will it clear passing trains?

My thoughts also.
Especially from past experience with Roundhouse Billies.

philipy wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 10:30 am Slowly sowly catchee monkey!

Seriously though, the lever looks a bit close to the rail? When it's thrown over will it clear passing trains?

When the lever is thrown it will be lying down flat, I can move it further out just have to "tinker" with it.
Could also hack this as well to get a lever and bar that is low profile.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3648419

GAP wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 7:48 pm

philipy wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 10:30 am Slowly sowly catchee monkey!

Seriously though, the lever looks a bit close to the rail? When it's thrown over will it clear passing trains?

When the lever is thrown it will be lying down flat, I can move it further out just have to "tinker" with it.
Could also hack this as well to get a lever and bar that is low profile.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3648419

After some testing I have moved the lever pivot further away from the rail by 10mm the mount is now 50mm long.

Edit; after more testing I moved it out to 60mm to give some headroom for clearance.

An update on my 3D points project.

I have printed a set of each of these;
1. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976643
2. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4686102
3. https://www.printables.com/model/226398 ... 1805018150

My findings;
Note; test bogie is an old Aristocraft bogie with an LGB plastic wheel set and a large metal Bachmann wheel set fitted, I push the bogie through the points to see how it runs as it free rolls.
I use it when I am making as a rough go/no go gauge when building points from brass.
No1.
Pros; -overall pretty good the test bogie ran through smoothly through the guard rails
Cons; -the sleeper height is too low for the track I am using and would require some packing under neath to raise their height (not a big deal but a draw back)
-the depth of the frog causes the test bogie to give a bit of a bump up and down as it passed through.
No2.
Pros; -as this is a remix of No1 the sleeper height is now compatible with my track as it raised the sleeper height.
Cons; -again the frog depth is shallow.
-In the remix the pins used for the swivel points on the moving rails were not lengthened to allow for the raised sleeper height so therefore do not protrude
through the sleeper to allow the lock clips (the little round circular parts) to engage.

No3.
Pros; -test bogie rolls through well, no issues detected with guard rail clearance.
Cons; - the throw bar was a fraction thick when compared to the slot left to fit it and had to be sanded down to allow it to move smoothly.
-the straight point rail did not fit flush into the cutout in the stock rail so some trimming was required (the foot of the rail jutted into the space)
-the hole for a screw to hold the throw bar down against the springiness of the moving rails and allow it to move is in the wrong place it is off centre and should
be moved centrally in relation to the slot in the throw bar.
Overall; the cons are minor and this is one huge set of points but is the same size as the ones I have built out of brass following the plans I have.

One thing I did find is because I printed in PLA one component (the straight point rail) warped terribly when it was left in a place where it was exposed to sunlight for a couple of hours/day every day for about 2 weeks (sitting on an inside couch cushion in front of a window) so I am very reticent to use them outdoors.
After saying that I have noticed that the black PLA I have is not deteriorating nearly as fast as the grey which I used, a coat of paint will slow down the UV damage but not the heat induced warping.
As the project is inside PLA should do the job hopefully, the next thing to do is place all sets in the shed where they are going to be used and expose them to the heat over the summer months.
Outside temps will reach into the 30-35C for the next few months, I suppose I should get a cheap thermometer to measure that the inside temps.
As the opening into the shed will put some points in direct sunlight in the afternoon I will probably make some brass ones to go where the sun shines.


Rails showing warping Top is as printed, bottom shows warping

I will most probably hack which ever design I finally use to add the point lever.

GAP wrote: ↑Sat Nov 25, 2023 1:07 am
As the project is inside PLA should do the job hopefully, the next thing to do is place all sets in the shed where they are going to be used and expose them to the heat over the summer months.
Outside temps will reach into the 30'sC for the next few months, I suppose I should get a cheap thermometer to measure that the inside temps.

I would think a thermometer check is essential. If it's 30+ outside it will be very much higher than that in a closed shed. It's rare that we get sustained temps that high here, but it gets literally unbearable in our shed and garage when it does.