A Krusty Koppel

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Old Man Aaron
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A Krusty Koppel

Post by Old Man Aaron » Mon Jun 19, 2023 2:22 pm

Thanks to a machining error in my car's new crankshaft, I have some unexpected free time while I wait to have it re-ground.
So for the first time in years, I've started a project out of genuine enthusiasm - rather than just getting another long modelling job out of the way.

Every sugar mill needs a boneyard, for all the worn out and broken things they're too cheap to scrap. Usually includes a couple of overgrown sidings.
A dilapidated locomotive of some description can often be found here amongst retired wagons and redundant milling machinery.
With the sounds of it's former shedmates nearby, it silently stands, rusting amid the weeds and rotting sleepers, at the back of the siding..

Enough "poetry", time for butchery. :lol:


I have a pair of LGB Koppel 0-4-0WTs picked up for cheap, the chassis of which I plan on bashing into a Koppel Mallet somewhere down the line. This leaves me with a pair of redundant bodies.

From some rough measurements of the motorised chassis, a dummy set of frames were cut from foamboard offcuts. The footplate and just about everything else is also leftover material. The wheels came from a NewRay (?) toy bogey wagon, and the axles are cut down nails. The springs and steps came from the donor loco.
Scratching cylinders and motion is more effort than I'm willing to put into this project, and I think encouraging nature to obscure the missing bits would be far more interesting.
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The ridiculous lower cab extensions were cut away and tidied with Squadron putty. Some detail parts were removed and their mounts filled in where appropriate.
A pair of "near enough" motion brackets and half-dismantled couplings were scratched from styrene scraps. The frames were made to look as though they'd been robbed of their cylinders.

The chimney was turned from a 4" long lump, of 2" dia. aluminium bar, that I had previously used as a camshaft bushing remover/installer.
Because it wouldn't be one of my machining sessions without some obvious sequencing mistake, I found the lump was slightly too long to drill through the centre with the drills on hand. I couldn't turn it around in the lathe chuck and drill from the other side, as I didn't want to damage the finished end by gripping it in the chuck.
In hindsight I could've used some brass strip as soft jaws, but I digress. I had to drill from the other end by hand, which of course means the centre hole is oversized and not perfectly centred.

The point of all that is to say, when I put the now-redundant bushing puller to good use as chimney-making barstock, I found that when I finish-turned the bottom of the chimney, I'd started cutting into the off-centred bore. On any other chimney this would be game over, but for a boneyard loco, it looks like the base of the chimney has rusted out. :lol:
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I've had a lot of fun on this little project over the last three days.
A quick rubbing back of the printed worksplates so they won't show through, and I can start painting.
I'm thinking I'll use a combination of salt-chipping and iron powder for real rust. Peeling paint revealing an old livery underneath, is another method I'd like to learn for this and future projects, so that'll need some experimentation before I proceed here.
I'd also like to weather a rake of Binnie tippers the same way, so I may assemble those first and weather the lot in one go..
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Peter Butler » Mon Jun 19, 2023 4:56 pm

What a wonderful project.... love it! I'm interested to hear a step-by-step description of your weathering techniques, please.
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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by ge_rik » Mon Jun 19, 2023 7:23 pm

That does look very interesting. More please ...... :lol:

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by FWLR » Thu Jun 22, 2023 5:46 am

This an interesting build, a scrap loco from scratch. Very interesting indeed.. :thumbup:

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Old Man Aaron » Wed Jun 28, 2023 2:21 pm

Happy to hear you're enjoying the project - I certainly am. I'll have to do this "work on what you actually want to work on" thing again sometime.. :lol:

20/06/23
For whatever reason, my vision for this forlorn loco is of faded black, with green and red showing through chipped and peeled areas.
After a coat of black etch primer, the loco was spraybombed with green enamel. The rest was picked out with Tamiya red and flat black, as soon as the green was dry to the touch. I'm not fussed to let coats harden or even cover properly at this point, as little of this will be seen when I'm done.

A bit of backstory: Because you're not a modeller until you contrive a tale to justify your choice of paint. :roll:

When the loco left Orenstein & Koppel's Berlin works around 1900, it was given the common "green with red chassis" livery.
It passed though a few owners' hands, and by 1916, is at work for my fictional 16mm sugar mill.
The mill has grown in it's 20-odd years, and the little engine now finds itself outclassed in cane traffic, by the larger Fowlers and Hudswells.
Getting worn, but still useful. It's been relegated to standby duties, occasionally shunts the mill yard, and whatever general fill-in.
As the Great War escalates, so does the Empire's demand for sugar - soldiers need their tea breaks after all, between being gassed at 2pm and shelled at 3..

Traffic picks up at the mill, they need another loco. The usual suspects in Leeds can't help. "War's on".
The Koppel rolls into the mill workshop for a "Kerosene overhaul", it's tired green covered with a rushed coat of black paint- they couldn't get much else.
You can blame anything on war shortages. 8)
A fortnight later, the worn machine designed for light industrial work is out banking rakes of cane.
After the war, the loco settled back into it's prior role, though a far more tired engine.
By the mid-1920s, it was finally sidelined with the arrival of new locomotives from Britain, and War Office disposals.
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22/06/23
Back to the modelling.
The roof was given a coat of clear spray paint, and fine (consistency of dust) iron powder sparingly sprinkled over it. This was done over a piece of kitchen paper to catch the excess, which was knocked loose by a gentle rapping against the model. A soft but stiff brush was used to streak the iron particles in the direction of rainwater runoff.
I'm aware of real rust modelling products that use two or three different substances to create the effect, but a packet of iron dust from chemistry suppliers on evilbay, goes much farther for a tenth of the price.

The clear paint I used came from the back of the cupboard, because rather than being "matt" as advertised on the tin, it's gloss. This doesn't matter as it'll be clearcoated when finished. It also dries far too quickly, meaning I can't "streak off" much excess iron powder before the paint touch dries. I usually use a cheap gloss enamel spray for this, but I'm out. This means I have to work in small sections of the loco at a time, rather than doing the whole thing at once.
Will get another can of enamel when I have the chance..
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The iron powder was then soaked with vinegar using a fine mist sprayer and left to dry somewhere shady.
Once dry, you'll find the iron has started to rust. At this point, the rust is likely very orange-looking. If you're modelling very new rust, you could stop there.
The more times you hit it with vinegar, the darker and older the rust will look. As always, it pays to test on some scrap first.
Don't bother with water, or you'll take weeks to get a result. I don't know if it's the clearcoat or what, but there were a lot of white water marks left by the vinegar over the painted surfaces.
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24/06/23
Cotton buds wet with alcohol removed these marks, and proved ideal for feathering edges a bit and removing excessive rust.
3-4 sprays of vinegar later, and it's looking very nice. To my eye, the rust is still a bit bright. Another coat of clear will tone it down. If you missed anywhere when applying the iron earlier, now's the time to apply some more to those spots before the clearcoat dries. But for something I'll paint over, this is fine. Most of this rust will be covered up, only showing through peeling black paint, and will lend the still-adhered black a subtle rust-blistering effect.
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It's been some years since my last go at real rust, and I'm figuring it out again as I go. Referring to my old blog post has been helpful.

I've used the salt-chipping method in the past, but have never used hairspray to get a peeling effect until now. More to come...
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Andrew » Wed Jun 28, 2023 2:46 pm

I'm liking the look of this very much - looking forward to learning from your rust techniques too, because I've only been partially happy with mine so far.

And I always love a plausible back story...

Agree with you re doing what inspires you at the moment too. It amazes me how hard it is for me to learn that lesson, but honestly, if I'm not doing it for fun, why am I doing it at all?! My next project is likely to be one inspired by my weekend in Porthmadog - if I can find all the bits...

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by FWLR » Thu Jun 29, 2023 6:54 am

Thats just a great rust effect. Thank you for showing how you achieve what I think is very impressive work, it does look like it is a loco that has had a hard life.

I need to learn more from you. :salute:

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by FWLR » Thu Jun 29, 2023 7:18 am

Just read your Blog and it very good indeed. Will be following it from now on and hopefully improve my modelling skills, what bit of skill I have. :lol:

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Old Man Aaron » Fri Jul 28, 2023 12:30 pm

Glad you like it. Sorry to say I no longer update the blog - instead, I post the same stuff here for the social aspect. ;)

10/07/23
Here's an excellent detailed guide on hairspray chipping. It does a better job of explaining things if you aren't already familiar.

After sealing the previous acrylic paint with an enamel clearcoat, the loco was given two even coats of cheap hairspray. This was left a few hours to fully dry.
I then topcoated the loco with a satin black aerosol enamel. Matt, satin - sheen doesn't matter because it'll all be sealed under a clearcoat in the end. I just used up what was getting low.

Enamels aren't ideal for hairspray chipping, but I got away with it on the weathering test dummy Stainz. I try to avoid using the airbrush whenever possible.

After topcoating, the paint was left to barely touch dry. I then scrubbed at it with paint brushes and water.
Short, stiff and preferably thick bristles are preferable - think the toothbrush-like bristles of extremely cheap and nasty small paint brushes.
A toothbrush will also work, but it's a bit over-aggressive for what I wanted. Here's what I've ended up with.
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For lots of things, you could stop right there. But I felt there was a little too much underlying colour showing, so after another clearcoat to seal what I'd done so far, the hairspray and black paint was repeated to cover up some of the green and red again.
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After that, it was various washes, drybrushing and spot-applying more rust to stippled-on clear enamel where needed. It's been one of those "10% weathering, 90% fixing your mistakes" jobs. Lots of corrections, even more overcorrections, and of course correcting those corrections.. :roll:

Since these photos were taken, I've finished the loco over the past couple of weeks.
I took some photos this morning, but looking at them through the computer screen now, they're rubbish. I will use a better camera tomorrow..
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Old Man Aaron » Sun Jul 30, 2023 11:59 am

Forgot I had a swap meet to attend, so "tomorrow" turned into "the next day".. :roll:

Once I can get some moss, shrubs and decrepit wagonry around it, I think the little Koppel will settle in nicely.
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Thanks for reading,
Aaron
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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Lonsdaler » Sun Jul 30, 2023 2:12 pm

That's some impressive weathering Aaron. I've not heard of that technique before (or if I have, I've forgotten all about itπŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ).
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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by FWLR » Mon Jul 31, 2023 6:35 am

I agree with Lonsdaler, that is really nice weathering. It looks like it's been there for years. :thumbright:

You will be running it won't you Aaron :?:

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by BertieB » Mon Jul 31, 2023 10:01 am

That’s really convincing. Nice!

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Andrew » Tue Aug 01, 2023 10:09 am

Wonderful!

It's hurting my heart a little, in the same way that the harmonies in the best country music do, a sure sign that you've captured the melancholic beauty of an abandoned steam locomotive perfectly!

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Re: A Krusty Koppel

Post by Old Man Aaron » Thu Aug 03, 2023 7:55 am

Very kind of you fellas to say - you've convinced me not to fiddle with it any further!
Regards,
Aaron - Scum Class Works

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