Re: A 'baby' Heisler
Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2022 12:32 am
part 4
Now there was the frames and everything else under the baseplate…………….
From experience I know that everything down low needs to be STRONG or the first derailment will rip something off. So I avoid glue and anything flimsy. It’s screws and metal where possible.
I drew what shape I wanted for the ‘curvy’ frames to scale, then cut it out and stuck to 2mm styrene.
(BTW, I buy all my styrene (plasticard) in 5’x3’ sheets). Then it was down to the bench grinder for a few minutes and a few more minutes with a file and the shapes were cut out. Then all the ‘fancy’ edging etc to finish up with using 0.5mm styrene.
Unfortunately I had placed the wooden ‘underframes’ too far inwards so that I had to contact glue and nail these curvy outside frames on the outside of the timber and that meant the air tanks and truss rods and king pins and other paraphernalia were too far ‘out.
So I added another 10x5 mm wood and covered with 2mm styrene, to bring them out far enough to allow the truss rods to line up with them, outside of the ‘curvy’ frames.
I made the truss rods and king pins from 2mm brass rod. I decided I wanted a more ‘back woods’ cab so I covered the sides with 0.5mm styrene which I scratched with a hacksaw blade to simulate wood grain. Spray painted brown and then washed grey acrylic over it.
Now there was the frames and everything else under the baseplate…………….
From experience I know that everything down low needs to be STRONG or the first derailment will rip something off. So I avoid glue and anything flimsy. It’s screws and metal where possible.
I drew what shape I wanted for the ‘curvy’ frames to scale, then cut it out and stuck to 2mm styrene.
(BTW, I buy all my styrene (plasticard) in 5’x3’ sheets). Then it was down to the bench grinder for a few minutes and a few more minutes with a file and the shapes were cut out. Then all the ‘fancy’ edging etc to finish up with using 0.5mm styrene.
Unfortunately I had placed the wooden ‘underframes’ too far inwards so that I had to contact glue and nail these curvy outside frames on the outside of the timber and that meant the air tanks and truss rods and king pins and other paraphernalia were too far ‘out.
So I added another 10x5 mm wood and covered with 2mm styrene, to bring them out far enough to allow the truss rods to line up with them, outside of the ‘curvy’ frames.
I made the truss rods and king pins from 2mm brass rod. I decided I wanted a more ‘back woods’ cab so I covered the sides with 0.5mm styrene which I scratched with a hacksaw blade to simulate wood grain. Spray painted brown and then washed grey acrylic over it.