Introducing the "Bumblebee Light Railway"
Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 5:18 pm
Hello, my name is Peter, I am a retired teacher (having taught Physics and IT) in secondary education and live in the Rhineland-Palatinate, sw Germany. Due to a major redesign of our garden I suddenly got the necessary space to do what I have dreamed of for decades: Setting up a garden railway. Taking out two big trees last fall gave me the space to build a circle line round the garden shed this spring. So I went for it.
First steps included building a dry wall and perform terraforming to cope with the slightly slopy terrain. About 2 tons of material had to be brought in to have the ground for the station and the rear part of the track.
Since 2 tons of material were not really enough to build the station right on ground level, I had to "level up" track by building a wooden structure to place the tracks on. To camouflage this I planted different kinds of perennial herb around it and so improved optical impression (hopefully) a little bit.
These plants, by the way, are also the reason why the railroad line is prefixed "Bumblebee": Hundreds of these insects populate the inner section of the railway during summer having breakfast, lunch and dinner.
A removable bridge is also there to be taken out if I want to bring the lawn mower or garden shredder to the lower end of the garden. Also a railroad crossing near the rear fence of the garden.
Track
The line is in 32mm gauge, 16mm per inch scale, so it represents a 600mm (something) narrow gauge line.
All track is homemade. I have been using Code-200 rails made from aluminum, wooden sleepers (1 by 1 cm cross section, 7 centimeters long) cut from oak wooden strips and drilled using a brass made pattern to make drilling more easy and more precise.
Rails are fixed on the sleepers using bolts (brand name "Spax") 2mm in diameter and about 1 cm long. Each 2.5 centimeters of track the rail is fixed by 4 bolts. I have built about about 40 meters of these tracks which took me about 1 months. That was hard work. :-) For the switches I have used the very useful information on https://www.16mm.org.uk/resources/ A great resource for a beginner in garden railroading like me!
Sleepers have been treated with timber preservative to avoid rottening in the moist weather we sometimes have here. All track is accessible easily for maintenance and repair.
BTW: Track is not powered because I only run either live steam locos or a Diesel engine that is battery powered.
Rolling stock
I own two live steam locos made by Accucraft: A Decauville 0-6-0 and a Talgarth 0-4-0.
The Diesel is made by IP engineering (Cabbed lister loco):
and has been a little bit "pimped" up. I built a drive unit made from aluminum with both axles are driven:
Besides I have built a tiny radio control unit (another hobby of mine is amateur radio and electronics). I'm now really happy with my rolling stock but another Diesel engine is to be projected in coming winter.
Cars are made by LGB and have been re-gauged to 32mm. They will get better couplings but I'm still thinking of what exactly I will be doing to solve this problem. Original LGB couplers are far too large for my point of view.
Buildings and other stuff
The loco shed is home made from a material that is available in hardware stores and used for thermal insulation of buildings. It's brand is "Styrodur". Fitting the walls together is easy and durable with hot glue.
The station building is an old "Playmobil" "Kindergarten" that has been re-painted, equipped with real windows and lighted with 2 bulbs inside.
The lamp posts outside are made from wooden sticks and equipped with small 6V bulbs and reflectors. All in all I have about 10 light bulbs paralleled. Currently I am projecting a microcontroller equipped solar power charger to charge the 6 V lead acid battery automatically to its maximum and then switch on the lights in the evening and switch them off when battery voltage drops under the critical border of 6V so that the battery will not be damaged by excessive discharge. This will be accomplished hopefully before fall. Let's see. :-)
In my next post I will attach some more pics of the railroad, so stay tuned! And, above all, thanks for reading this article! :-)
Peter
First steps included building a dry wall and perform terraforming to cope with the slightly slopy terrain. About 2 tons of material had to be brought in to have the ground for the station and the rear part of the track.
Since 2 tons of material were not really enough to build the station right on ground level, I had to "level up" track by building a wooden structure to place the tracks on. To camouflage this I planted different kinds of perennial herb around it and so improved optical impression (hopefully) a little bit.
These plants, by the way, are also the reason why the railroad line is prefixed "Bumblebee": Hundreds of these insects populate the inner section of the railway during summer having breakfast, lunch and dinner.
A removable bridge is also there to be taken out if I want to bring the lawn mower or garden shredder to the lower end of the garden. Also a railroad crossing near the rear fence of the garden.
Track
The line is in 32mm gauge, 16mm per inch scale, so it represents a 600mm (something) narrow gauge line.
All track is homemade. I have been using Code-200 rails made from aluminum, wooden sleepers (1 by 1 cm cross section, 7 centimeters long) cut from oak wooden strips and drilled using a brass made pattern to make drilling more easy and more precise.
Rails are fixed on the sleepers using bolts (brand name "Spax") 2mm in diameter and about 1 cm long. Each 2.5 centimeters of track the rail is fixed by 4 bolts. I have built about about 40 meters of these tracks which took me about 1 months. That was hard work. :-) For the switches I have used the very useful information on https://www.16mm.org.uk/resources/ A great resource for a beginner in garden railroading like me!
Sleepers have been treated with timber preservative to avoid rottening in the moist weather we sometimes have here. All track is accessible easily for maintenance and repair.
BTW: Track is not powered because I only run either live steam locos or a Diesel engine that is battery powered.
Rolling stock
I own two live steam locos made by Accucraft: A Decauville 0-6-0 and a Talgarth 0-4-0.
The Diesel is made by IP engineering (Cabbed lister loco):
and has been a little bit "pimped" up. I built a drive unit made from aluminum with both axles are driven:
Besides I have built a tiny radio control unit (another hobby of mine is amateur radio and electronics). I'm now really happy with my rolling stock but another Diesel engine is to be projected in coming winter.
Cars are made by LGB and have been re-gauged to 32mm. They will get better couplings but I'm still thinking of what exactly I will be doing to solve this problem. Original LGB couplers are far too large for my point of view.
Buildings and other stuff
The loco shed is home made from a material that is available in hardware stores and used for thermal insulation of buildings. It's brand is "Styrodur". Fitting the walls together is easy and durable with hot glue.
The station building is an old "Playmobil" "Kindergarten" that has been re-painted, equipped with real windows and lighted with 2 bulbs inside.
The lamp posts outside are made from wooden sticks and equipped with small 6V bulbs and reflectors. All in all I have about 10 light bulbs paralleled. Currently I am projecting a microcontroller equipped solar power charger to charge the 6 V lead acid battery automatically to its maximum and then switch on the lights in the evening and switch them off when battery voltage drops under the critical border of 6V so that the battery will not be damaged by excessive discharge. This will be accomplished hopefully before fall. Let's see. :-)
In my next post I will attach some more pics of the railroad, so stay tuned! And, above all, thanks for reading this article! :-)
Peter