Garden Railway Forum

The other comment I would make is that the quality of the surface of the prints is very good - probably the best I have ever had. The only difference is the supply of filament. I have been getting it direct from a company called PolyProps via their website.

Trevor

Cheers.

I have made my own brass worm wheel and stainless worm which I hope will be much more suitable for this model. " Free hobing " the worm wheel using an M8 spiral flute tap:
Of course to fit its I had to disassemble the existing wheels which had been secured to the axles with foaming polyurethane glue. Initially I couldn't move them on the shaft and thought I was going to have to make new wheels. After applying heat from a soldering iron onto the ends of the axles they came free quite easily. So the wheels are re-usable. I have put it back together with the new worm wheel and re quartered the wheels:
I will try it in the morning when the glue has cured.

Trevor

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 6:12 pm " Free hobing " the worm wheel using an M8 spiral flute tap:

Beyond me I'm afraid but it certainly looks most impressive and I'm full of envy.

Wow!!! This must be a first for the forum. Home made gears.....

Rik

I suppose the locomotive is essentially finished. I am now thinking about finishing touches:
I have created the nameplate, and am printing the handrails for the water tank - and they are not actually printing properly (yet).

In the early photos I can see that the loco has oval plates on the cab sides. I am looking for a photo of the original makers plate - can anyone help with that?

I can see that the second one is probably a Boston Lodge plate stating a rebuild. I wonder what that would have had on it prior to 1900? I have a photo of the current one of those so maybe that is a starting point.

And of course I can see a photo of the rebuilt engine in what looks like a dark brown. I presume that represents a result of research and should be the victorian livery. Of course what I want to find out is what livery would she have carried in the 1880's or 1890's?

Trevor

Hi Trevor, that's looking great!

My book of 7mm FR drawings says that the Englands were probably delivered in a "deep red", which had "changed to a slightly lighter shade, sometimes described as brick red". Lined with a black band, bordered with gold or yellow...

I think I'm right in saying that WP's current livery, although lovely, isn't based on a historic one...

Hope that helps!

Andrew

Coming on well Trevor. Can't help with the details you are looking for but I'd guess that some of our Ffestiniog afficionado's may be abe to.

Ah, it changed again after the last Fairlies arrived in 1879 - more later!

Sorry, was in the middle of a telly programme with the family...

So... "The introduction of the last two Fairlies... heralded a period of more elaborate lining. The black band was edged with fine red, yellow and black lines, and the panels were bordered with a fine red line. It is certain that at this period the base colour of the locomotives was a deep maroon... The maroon lasted until the 1930s."

Sounds like the liveries currently sported by Palmerston and ME?

You'd better get the lining pen out!

Andrew.

Andrew wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 10:00 pm

You'd better get the lining pen out!

Andrew.

Yes I thought it was due an outing!

Trevor

PS thanks for the livery details. Need to order a Deep Maroon paint

Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:39 am

Andrew wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 10:00 pm

You'd better get the lining pen out!

Andrew.

Yes I thought it was due an outing!

Trevor

PS thanks for the livery details. Need to order a Deep Maroon paint

I need to dig out mine too, probably to apply the same livery. I've bitten the bullet and ordered one of RH's new Small Englands - the cost is eye-watering enough without paying another £350 for lining, so it'll be a DIY job. I lined my Russell, but that was a while ago now and I'm sure I'm rusty, so I plan to practice on my Regner first!

The locomotive is now painted. It is ready to line - but the paint needs a few days to harden before I try that.

Result so far:
I have resin printed the name plates, makers plates and owners plates. They worked and you can just read the print. I will show you when I have finished painting them - I made a bit of a mess on the first attempt. Not easy to paint accurately as Philip has already indicated!

Trevor

More progress. Driver and fireman resin printed:
The shovel is separate, and its still in the printer. They might work with other tender engines - so I will put the stl files in the printer file section. And of course you can see the beginnings of the lining on the loco in the background. More work to do on that.

And the resin printed plates:
I am fairly happy with the oval plates. The black lettering was added with a lining pen using a 0.25mm nib. Fairly easy and accurate that way. I should have done the names the same way - start again with painting them I think.

Trevor

Coming on well Trevor. That lining looks pretty good.

Andrew and I found that painting the oval plates works best by painting ( or printing) the whole thing in the colour of the raised lettering/border, then once REALLY dry, flooding it with the recessed colour and quickly wiping the top to remove any overpaint. Brush painting even with a 00000 brush isn't really accurate enough.

Trevor, that looks freaking amazing, I hope you are very proud of yourself.

As far as name plates go, it looks like your plates are lifting at each end the same as mine do. I am going to thicken up the base to try and avoid this but I am not sure if it's getting them off the build plate that causes it or whether it's the curing process under a UV lamp, I might try an outside natural dry to see if it's that. Let me know if you manage to overcome this.

EDIT: Another question, how high and how wide are your rivets as they look perfect, mine never come out as they look in CAD, lol.

Excellent work all round. Can't wait to see it in action

Rik

Nice lining!

Incidentally, (unless you get it right first time, of course!) what do you use to remove any mistakes while lining a plastic model? I use lighter fluid on metal locos, but want to line a tender I've made from plastic at some point and wonder how it would hold up?

Thanks,

Andrew.

-steves- wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 8:16 am Trevor, that looks freaking amazing, I hope you are very proud of yourself.

As far as name plates go, it looks like your plates are lifting at each end the same as mine do. I am going to thicken up the base to try and avoid this but I am not sure if it's getting them off the build plate that causes it or whether it's the curing process under a UV lamp, I might try an outside natural dry to see if it's that. Let me know if you manage to overcome this.

EDIT: Another question, how high and how wide are your rivets as they look perfect, mine never come out as they look in CAD, lol.

Thanks for the complement!

I am quite pleased with it.

The rivets are 1mm diameter and 1mm high. Just rods - not actually rivet shaped. I don't think its obvious when they are printed - and even less so when painted.

The name plates were flat when I took them off the build plate - but warped under UV. I was planning to just glue them into place and expect the glue to hold them flat.

Trevor

Andrew wrote: ↑Tue Mar 02, 2021 4:59 pm Nice lining!

Incidentally, (unless you get it right first time, of course!) what do you use to remove any mistakes while lining a plastic model? I use lighter fluid on metal locos, but want to line a tender I've made from plastic at some point and wonder how it would hold up?

Thanks,

Andrew.

I do the same. I have been using lighter fuel on the plastic models as well. The underlying paint is Valejo acrylic airbrush paint and doesn't seem to be affected by the lighter fuel - which evaporates almost instantly.

Oh and I do make plenty of mistakes!

Trevor