Garden Railway Forum

Thanks for the idea Rod - I'll certainly invest in an appropriately sized wood bit for my next model.
The main panels are made of 1.5mm plasticard and I used a hole-cutter (the plumber's sort that you put in an electric drill) and they did ok, but not the smoothest cut. For the 0.5mm overlays that didn't work at all - just tore the material, as you say. I spent last night finishing them off by trimming the overlays bit by bit around the holes in the thicker material, and obtaining a smooth finish by wrapping some sandpaper around the same hole-cutter bit and using that as a sort of make shift reamer. All trial and error but got a nice smooth spectacle plate hole in the end

Just remember though Tom, no matter which way or how you cut Plasticard, slow and steady is the best. Taking time to cut any material for building models is the best. For cutting Plasticard with a knife I always try to cut along a metal ruler that is clamped down on to the card if possible. And cutting away from the piece you want to use. It's so easy for the knife to slip, it sometimes has a life of it's own...

One way of dealing with the problem of tearing in the thinner sheets of plastic card is to sandwich the card between two pieces of scrap timber, clamp together and then drill the required hole/s. I have done this on a number of occasions using whatever I had to hand, sometimes ply sometimes MDF and certainly on one occasion a couple of scraps of 2" x 1" battens. However that was when I was using an ordinary twist drill to make the required hole, normally a hole saw would not have enough depth of cut to go through the thickness of the batten.

For some reason, I've missed the updates on this thread. It looks really interesting. Great to see the progress you're making and I'm really happy you've pinched an idea or two of mine (which I probably pinched from someone else).

Keep up the good work. So far so (really) good.

Rik

I've found this tool excellent for cutting circular holes in plastic sheet
http://www.olfacutters.co.uk/Olfa-CMP-1 ... ass-cutter
They sell sturdier versions too.

ge_rik wrote: ↑Wed Jun 17, 2020 5:02 pm For some reason, I've missed the updates on this thread. It looks really interesting. Great to see the progress you're making and I'm really happy you've pinched an idea or two of mine (which I probably pinched from someone else).

Keep up the good work. So far so (really) good.

Rik

Thanks very much Rik! As I've said before, the loco building section of your blog was both the inspiration for, and a lot of practical help with, this project. In particular the Southwold 2-4-2T project. I wouldn't really have known where to start without it. Without experienced modellers sharing their experiences, newbies like me would never get started.

If you do decide to have a go at scratchbuilding one of these, I'd love to see how you get on. They are really appealing little locos and I'm sure you'd do a great job with one. As for me, I'll keep everyone updated with my progress but I do seem to suffer from 'grassfire syndrome', i.e. as soon as I get stuck into one project, I'm already planning the next one, or several...

Lonsdaler wrote: ↑Fri Jun 19, 2020 10:22 am I've found this tool excellent for cutting circular holes in plastic sheet
http://www.olfacutters.co.uk/Olfa-CMP-1 ... ass-cutter
They sell sturdier versions too.

OK just ordered one of these. Good find Phil, cheers

FWIW:
I tend to use a punch to cut round holes in plasticard, I inherited quite a range from my grandad many years ago.
They also have the advantage of creating a disk which can then be used as fuel filler caps etc.

BTW If anyone isn't familiar with the Rye and Camber you might want to browse through an account of my visit to the trackbed from seven years ago on my (other) blog.
http://ngruk.blogspot.com/2013/04/rye-a ... amway.html

Considering it's been defunct for seventy years, there's still plenty left to see including some of the original rails.

I've included quite a few public domain archive photos on the blog post which show just how exquisite the little Bagnall locos were.

Rik

A quick update. The cab / tanks assembly has now been given a first coat of primer, after which I've been applying filler to rectify small deficiencies, mostly around the spectacle plate inserts (made from strips of 0.5mm plasticard). Also shown is the underside, with M3 square bolts added. I decided it would be a good idea to be able to detach the body from the chassis easily, in case of any future wiring problems (quite likely given my soldering 'skills') or, perhaps, the addition of radio control.

That's a great idea Tom.

Good idea to think ahead and threaded holes are a neat solution. Wish I'd thought of that!

Rik

It's starting to come together now... the body is on its second coat of paint (it will be getting another one) and the chassis is wired up and working - LED for firebox included.

Yes, it does look good with a coat of paint!

Rik

Nice paint work Tom.

Thanks both. I am increasingly thinking I am going to have to build a coach to go with it, perhaps a Rye & Camber inspired 'car' with balcony ends... must stop starting to many projects at once

That's the trouble isn't it. I have at least 4 started, but no where near finished.

I usually have at least four projects on the go at any one time. I usually work my way through them - though some take longer (maybe years) to finish compared with others. I find it useful to switch to another project when, for example, I'm waiting for paint to harden off or concrete to set.

And then, of course, there's the projects not yet started. My current to do list runs to around three pages of A4!!!

Rik

I know I'm an oddity amongst modellers but I rarely have more than one thing on the go. I hate having anything unfinished, whether building a model, decorating a room or reading a book, I simply have to keep going at every possible moment, much to my wife's annoyance.

I think I would place myself in the same category as Philip, not having more than one model or kit on the workbench at any one time. I may have done so in the past and discovered it doesn't work for me, but I can usually continue with another part of the same build whilst waiting for something to set or dry. I can see the temptation of available kits could lead to multiple builds but scratch building would make it more difficult. Certainly the need to finish becomes an obsession with me once I start on something. You might have noticed I am quite a fast worker.
I don't have a 'to do list' nor do I ever draw a design as I know none of those things would ever be carried out.