I can see why Tom, nothing says narrow-gauge more than a tall chimneytom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:43 pm In the last picture the water tank has been removed as I have sent this off to my engineering friend to fit the water filter as it is a bit of a conundrun but I also sent the chimney base and cap as I have decided I want an even bigger chimney!
5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
- dewintondave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
While I am waiting for the saddle tank and chimney to return I have started on some other projects on the loco.
As Running at my ME club requires the use of a spark arrestor when pulling passenger services I have started to think about how to install such a device that is not an ugly looking mesh cover on top of the chimney that dampens the chuff.
My first idea was to fit stainless steel mesh inside the firebox to block any deposits going down the fire tubes (bake bean can tin used as a template before cutting up expensive stainless steel mesh):
I got the idea from looking into full size steam locos that use a 'brick arch' (one of the joys of larger scale steam is you learn about stuff like this), however, it was pointed out to me by those more in the know that the mesh would be subject to extreme heat and likely to block easily.
After some more Internet searching I found pictures of mesh cones inside smokeboxes. Here is the smokebox of my loco (note the chimney pipe is just a piece of similar sized steel tube, it is not fixed in place hence why it is not straight):
The steel mesh cone would need to be able to slip over the blower pipe (on the right in the picture above) but also fit the outside of the chimney.
Here is my first attempt:
It is a bit crude and held together with steel wire (mesh is difficult to shape unlike the paper mockup ones I made!)
The blower pipe is not in the ideal place for fitting a cone over the blast pipe so I have decided to remake this and make a better cone.
Only way to learn is to have a go and improve...
As Running at my ME club requires the use of a spark arrestor when pulling passenger services I have started to think about how to install such a device that is not an ugly looking mesh cover on top of the chimney that dampens the chuff.
My first idea was to fit stainless steel mesh inside the firebox to block any deposits going down the fire tubes (bake bean can tin used as a template before cutting up expensive stainless steel mesh):
I got the idea from looking into full size steam locos that use a 'brick arch' (one of the joys of larger scale steam is you learn about stuff like this), however, it was pointed out to me by those more in the know that the mesh would be subject to extreme heat and likely to block easily.
After some more Internet searching I found pictures of mesh cones inside smokeboxes. Here is the smokebox of my loco (note the chimney pipe is just a piece of similar sized steel tube, it is not fixed in place hence why it is not straight):
The steel mesh cone would need to be able to slip over the blower pipe (on the right in the picture above) but also fit the outside of the chimney.
Here is my first attempt:
It is a bit crude and held together with steel wire (mesh is difficult to shape unlike the paper mockup ones I made!)
The blower pipe is not in the ideal place for fitting a cone over the blast pipe so I have decided to remake this and make a better cone.
Only way to learn is to have a go and improve...
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
As I did not want to buy new pipe or nipples for the blower (some days you just want to get stuff done and not wait for parts) I made a brass sleeve from some brass rod I had in the bits box for the existing pipe and then silver soldered on additional copper pipe:
Oops, what did I forgot to do? Yep, I forgot to add the union nut and while I tried to file down the brass sleeve on the belt sander I spilt the pipe making the whole piece useless.
My second attempt also failed as I used a piece of larger diameter copper pipe as a sleeve but during soldering must of soldered the passageway as it was blocked even when connected to the airline!
After walking away from it all for a while I had another go but this time I salvaged the nipple from the original blower pipe (cut and drilled it out) and made a new pipe from scratch, success!
Blower pipe on test:
I am finding silver soldering and any work that requires heating up easier now due to the use of insulating fire bricks which repel heat back into the part you are working on:
I cannot recommend purchasing these types of bricks enough for soldering work!
Oops, what did I forgot to do? Yep, I forgot to add the union nut and while I tried to file down the brass sleeve on the belt sander I spilt the pipe making the whole piece useless.
My second attempt also failed as I used a piece of larger diameter copper pipe as a sleeve but during soldering must of soldered the passageway as it was blocked even when connected to the airline!
After walking away from it all for a while I had another go but this time I salvaged the nipple from the original blower pipe (cut and drilled it out) and made a new pipe from scratch, success!
Blower pipe on test:
I am finding silver soldering and any work that requires heating up easier now due to the use of insulating fire bricks which repel heat back into the part you are working on:
I cannot recommend purchasing these types of bricks enough for soldering work!
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
.... and no doubt, your wife recommends their use on kitchen tables!
The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
I did demonstrate to her how well they insulate heat on the dining table, beats soldering in the workshop in this horrible weather with the constant wind and rain!Peter Butler wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:49 pm .... and no doubt, your wife recommends their use on kitchen tables!
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
Another project is dealing with ash collection while the loco is in steam.
I bought this laser cut steel box from Blackgates Engineering a while back and it is meant to fit the 'Sweet Pea' chassis, however, as the rear bracket for the coupling bar and buffer beam was installed higher than in the drawings you cannot remove the firebox with the steel box in position as it would knock against it:
The solution I decided on that did not disturb the chassis setup was to cut an identical semicircle on the other side of the steel box so that the firebox could slide out:
When I find a suitable narrow gauge style coupling that can be bolted to the buffer beam I will buy and fit it so the steel box can be little lower in the slot in the chassis and not sit on top of the coupling bar as can be seen in the last picture.
The box will be stripped of the grey primer used to protect it from rusting and then chemically blackened.
I bought this laser cut steel box from Blackgates Engineering a while back and it is meant to fit the 'Sweet Pea' chassis, however, as the rear bracket for the coupling bar and buffer beam was installed higher than in the drawings you cannot remove the firebox with the steel box in position as it would knock against it:
The solution I decided on that did not disturb the chassis setup was to cut an identical semicircle on the other side of the steel box so that the firebox could slide out:
When I find a suitable narrow gauge style coupling that can be bolted to the buffer beam I will buy and fit it so the steel box can be little lower in the slot in the chassis and not sit on top of the coupling bar as can be seen in the last picture.
The box will be stripped of the grey primer used to protect it from rusting and then chemically blackened.
- dewintondave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
I don't think I could be a club member they get so caught up with rulestom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2020 5:48 pm As Running at my ME club requires the use of a spark arrestor when pulling passenger services I have started to think about how to install such a device that is not an ugly looking mesh cover on top of the chimney that dampens the chuff.
Coal issues eh Tomtom_tom_go wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:13 pm Another project is dealing with ash collection while the loco is in steam.
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
I understand where you are coming from Dave but my ME club has been great so far. I was allowed to run members locos very early on without any red tape blocking access.
Spark arrestors are a good idea as they stop members of the public being possibly hit or dry grass catching fire. It will only take one child being injured for the local council to shut the club track down permanently!
Having to deal with ash is a small price to pay for the joys of coal firing a real steam locomotive...
Spark arrestors are a good idea as they stop members of the public being possibly hit or dry grass catching fire. It will only take one child being injured for the local council to shut the club track down permanently!
Having to deal with ash is a small price to pay for the joys of coal firing a real steam locomotive...
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 'Sweet Pea'
I'm that way about locos without water feed pumps now, too toyliketom_tom_go wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 6:08 pm Having to deal with ash is a small price to pay for the joys of coal firing a real steam locomotive...
Best wishes,
Dave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
I bought a new bench grinder late last year, however, I only got it out the box this weekend to try it out!
You can see how effective the metal wire wheel I have fitted is at making a start of cleaning up one of the buffer beams of the tender.
I can get on now with getting the tender chassis cleaned up and put back together.
You can see how effective the metal wire wheel I have fitted is at making a start of cleaning up one of the buffer beams of the tender.
I can get on now with getting the tender chassis cleaned up and put back together.
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
Very handy things bench grinders. I freehand sharpened an endmill yesterday - look away purists
I've got a wire brush that I attach to the bench drill - very handy too
I've got a wire brush that I attach to the bench drill - very handy too
Best wishes,
Dave
Dave
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
Good idea there Dave, thanks.dewintondave wrote: ↑Mon Mar 02, 2020 10:09 pm I've got a wire brush that I attach to the bench drill - very handy too
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
I should be getting my larger chimney back tomorrow along with the saddle tank with the new water connection fitted (here are some photos from my friend who has done the work):
Now this is a narrow gauge chimney!
Chimney base brazed on:
New connection for the injector water feed fitted to the saddle tank:
Fitting the connection:
You can see the new water filter for the injector water feed in the saddle tank:
Now this is a narrow gauge chimney!
Chimney base brazed on:
New connection for the injector water feed fitted to the saddle tank:
Fitting the connection:
You can see the new water filter for the injector water feed in the saddle tank:
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
I did a quick trial fit of the chimney and saddle tank this evening:
Now I can get back on with finishing the injector install and having a trial run before the club track opens up to the public at the end of March.
I also need to think about fitting a cab!
Now I can get back on with finishing the injector install and having a trial run before the club track opens up to the public at the end of March.
I also need to think about fitting a cab!
Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
I really like how the engine looks with its new chimney. Much better than its previous appearance. What sort of cab are you thinking of adding? Half-height like a quarry Hunslet, or something with spectacles?
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
Thanks Keith, I am pleased with how the loco is coming along and the experience I am gaining.
Cab wise, undecided so far. The new chimney allows for a large enclosed cab to be fitted, however, as I am going to have to build this myself the simpler option is an open cab with a small plate to mount the whistle onto (I like what Chris Bird has done with his Roundhouse 7/8ths locos):
Cab wise, undecided so far. The new chimney allows for a large enclosed cab to be fitted, however, as I am going to have to build this myself the simpler option is an open cab with a small plate to mount the whistle onto (I like what Chris Bird has done with his Roundhouse 7/8ths locos):
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
Making progress with the steam injector install:
The first part of the video is testing the newly installed water feed for the new steam injector and then the final part is the loco running and testing the whistle which has been moved under the boiler as the steam injector takes the space where the whistle was originally installed.
Very happy with the injector, however, I have a few steam leaks to attend to before I can run the loco at the club track again.
The first part of the video is testing the newly installed water feed for the new steam injector and then the final part is the loco running and testing the whistle which has been moved under the boiler as the steam injector takes the space where the whistle was originally installed.
Very happy with the injector, however, I have a few steam leaks to attend to before I can run the loco at the club track again.
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
Whistle moved under the boiler until I have a cab for it to be bolted onto:
I made a new steam feed pipe from the valve to the injector as my first attempt looked ugly:
The steam injector all plumbed in with a slip on piece of pipe over the drain so that when I am running the loco I don't have to lean over and look under the footplate to check the water flow:
The new inline water valve for the injector is shown to the left of this picture (the length of the handle shaft needs a trim as it is too high, I can then use Loctite to secure it into position):
I made a new steam feed pipe from the valve to the injector as my first attempt looked ugly:
The steam injector all plumbed in with a slip on piece of pipe over the drain so that when I am running the loco I don't have to lean over and look under the footplate to check the water flow:
The new inline water valve for the injector is shown to the left of this picture (the length of the handle shaft needs a trim as it is too high, I can then use Loctite to secure it into position):
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
The shaft for the valve handle cut to size and secured with 603 Loctite (it sets very quickly). When the valve handle points towards the boiler then this is 'open' and water is allowed to fill the injector:
When the valve handle is pointed away from the boiler then this is the 'closed' position and no water will pass:
The setup with the valve handle position matches the axle pump valve (shown in the below photo with the longer shaft) so I will not get confused having to remember two valves with different positions (easily done when you are busy operating the loco on the track).
Here is the new valve bolted to the footplate:
When the valve handle is pointed away from the boiler then this is the 'closed' position and no water will pass:
The setup with the valve handle position matches the axle pump valve (shown in the below photo with the longer shaft) so I will not get confused having to remember two valves with different positions (easily done when you are busy operating the loco on the track).
Here is the new valve bolted to the footplate:
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Re: 5" gauge 0-6-0 Sweet Pea
The mesh cone idea did not work out as it is too fiddly to make and install securely so I have instead gone for a cylindrical mesh cover that is slotted into the base of the chimney and secured at the bottom with a steel ring:
The blower pipe I remade in an earlier post is also inside the mesh cylinder so it is not blocked.
To get the mesh out it requires the chimney base to be removed, however, I have seen many people at the club who use an air line to clean mesh so I should only need to remove it when it requires replacing from heat damage.
The blower pipe I remade in an earlier post is also inside the mesh cylinder so it is not blocked.
To get the mesh out it requires the chimney base to be removed, however, I have seen many people at the club who use an air line to clean mesh so I should only need to remove it when it requires replacing from heat damage.
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