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Hancockshire
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Can somebody help me!

Post by Hancockshire » Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:35 am

I need a Peco to Mamod track component. I'm sick to death with the price of Peco Track and I need some strong track to go on the path thats blocking construction that will be used soon, so can someone find these components for me and tell me where I can get them.
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Post by mhlr » Sat Apr 25, 2009 1:18 pm

I would not recommend Mamod track for path ways, in my exprience, Peco is stonger. Mamod track is made from Mazak which is quite brittle, so might snap if you tred on it awquardly.

Anyway, as for prices, unless you have got a cheap second hand source for it, Peco works out cheaper per yard than Mamod does new. I'd suggest keeping an eye on ebay for second hand Peco/Tenmille, and maybe ask some of the suppliers (eg: PPS) if they have any: http://www.freewebs.com/mhlr/links.htm

I have a similar problem to you, I have to cross a pathway where there are some steps, so because I can't "sink" the track into the actual slab itself, what I plan to do is cut a piece of wood to sit in between the rails (leaving a couple of mm either side for the wheels to pass), then probably cement up to the rails on the outer edges making a slope. That way it should survive being walked on fairly regually.

Good luck  ;)  :D
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Post by Matt » Sat Apr 25, 2009 2:01 pm

I agree with mhlr on this one. Peco is cheaper, and far better than, mamod track. Also, I don't think such a componant exists.

ptlrcecil's line has some mamod track joined onto peco. You could ask him how he did it.
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Post by SillyBilly » Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:48 pm

I just dremeled away at some Mamod track untill a PECO fishplate fitted. I echo the comments of others Mamod track works out about the same price as PECO (PECO may be cheaper), apart from the points. Mamod track joins at the sleeper rather than the rail so lends itself to de-railing, if you tread on it then it is likely to cause damage. Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.

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Post by mhlr » Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:54 pm

SillyBilly wrote:Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.
TonyW, I'd like to see please! :D
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Post by Hancockshire » Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:59 am

SillyBilly wrote:Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.
OOOH, that sounds just the ticket! Mind you, I live in a rented house so it will need to be something that can be lifted up easily :(
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Post by mhlr » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:17 am

Hancockshire wrote:OOOH, that sounds just the ticket! Mind you, I live in a rented house so it will need to be something that can be lifted up easily :(
Make the crossing out of external ply wood or something, so all you have to do is screw it down and when you go just unscrew it.
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Post by TonyW » Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:27 pm

SillyBilly wrote:Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.
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First job was to borrow a heavy and noisy cutting disc machine fitted with a diamond blade for cutting concrete. I then made two cuts through the path and removed the lump of concrete between the two cuts.  A trench was then dug so that I could lay concrete building blocks on end, as I have done for the rest of my railway.

The crossing is conveniently one yard wide, so uses a 36-inch length of Tenmille track. This is made up in the normal manner but between every block of four sleepers is an extra sleeper that has been drilled and fitted with a Tenmille check rail chairs. The full length check rails are fixed in place by these chairs, and it is also necessary to file or grind off the dummy bolt heads from the normal sleepers, otherwise the checkrail will be higher than the running rail. The checkrail is essential to stop the cement mix from between the rails collapsing and to guarantee a decent flange way.

The completed track assembly was then fixed to the top of the concrete blocks in my normal way.

I then mixed some concrete and put that between the block edges and the existing path, up to the top of the blocks. The final surface was a sand and cement mix carefully smoothed off with a float. Before doing the final surface I stretched a piece of string along each flangeway so they did not fill up with mortar, and just pulled the string out when it was all dry. The crossing was protected from rain and cats by laying some timber around it and covering with a plastic sheet while it dried.
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Post by SillyBilly » Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:05 pm

Many thanks for this, never know when it may come in handy for anyone, the check rails make it much more 'real'.

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Post by mhlr » Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:27 pm

Fantastic! Consider the idea "stolen"!! :lol:
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Post by ptlrcecil » Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:32 pm

Similar to how the ptlr crossings are done exept insted of a check rail we run a sacraficial big big bogie when the cement is still soft to clear the flanges then when its still not quite fully hard we run a big heavy 0-4-0 to make sure they are clear.
Check rail is a good idea though, might consider for the future.
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Its a Mamod it does that.

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