Can somebody help me!
- Hancockshire
- Driver
- Posts: 1204
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:06 am
- Location: Stranraer
- Contact:
Can somebody help me!
I need a Peco to Mamod track component. I'm sick to death with the price of Peco Track and I need some strong track to go on the path thats blocking construction that will be used soon, so can someone find these components for me and tell me where I can get them.
I would not recommend Mamod track for path ways, in my exprience, Peco is stonger. Mamod track is made from Mazak which is quite brittle, so might snap if you tred on it awquardly.
Anyway, as for prices, unless you have got a cheap second hand source for it, Peco works out cheaper per yard than Mamod does new. I'd suggest keeping an eye on ebay for second hand Peco/Tenmille, and maybe ask some of the suppliers (eg: PPS) if they have any: http://www.freewebs.com/mhlr/links.htm
I have a similar problem to you, I have to cross a pathway where there are some steps, so because I can't "sink" the track into the actual slab itself, what I plan to do is cut a piece of wood to sit in between the rails (leaving a couple of mm either side for the wheels to pass), then probably cement up to the rails on the outer edges making a slope. That way it should survive being walked on fairly regually.
Good luck ;) :D
Anyway, as for prices, unless you have got a cheap second hand source for it, Peco works out cheaper per yard than Mamod does new. I'd suggest keeping an eye on ebay for second hand Peco/Tenmille, and maybe ask some of the suppliers (eg: PPS) if they have any: http://www.freewebs.com/mhlr/links.htm
I have a similar problem to you, I have to cross a pathway where there are some steps, so because I can't "sink" the track into the actual slab itself, what I plan to do is cut a piece of wood to sit in between the rails (leaving a couple of mm either side for the wheels to pass), then probably cement up to the rails on the outer edges making a slope. That way it should survive being walked on fairly regually.
Good luck ;) :D
-
- Retired Director
- Posts: 3536
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:00 pm
I just dremeled away at some Mamod track untill a PECO fishplate fitted. I echo the comments of others Mamod track works out about the same price as PECO (PECO may be cheaper), apart from the points. Mamod track joins at the sleeper rather than the rail so lends itself to de-railing, if you tread on it then it is likely to cause damage. Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.
- Hancockshire
- Driver
- Posts: 1204
- Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:06 am
- Location: Stranraer
- Contact:
SillyBilly wrote:Tony W has a nice Level Crossing on his railway he may post photos and details if you ask him nicely.
First job was to borrow a heavy and noisy cutting disc machine fitted with a diamond blade for cutting concrete. I then made two cuts through the path and removed the lump of concrete between the two cuts. A trench was then dug so that I could lay concrete building blocks on end, as I have done for the rest of my railway.
The crossing is conveniently one yard wide, so uses a 36-inch length of Tenmille track. This is made up in the normal manner but between every block of four sleepers is an extra sleeper that has been drilled and fitted with a Tenmille check rail chairs. The full length check rails are fixed in place by these chairs, and it is also necessary to file or grind off the dummy bolt heads from the normal sleepers, otherwise the checkrail will be higher than the running rail. The checkrail is essential to stop the cement mix from between the rails collapsing and to guarantee a decent flange way.
The completed track assembly was then fixed to the top of the concrete blocks in my normal way.
I then mixed some concrete and put that between the block edges and the existing path, up to the top of the blocks. The final surface was a sand and cement mix carefully smoothed off with a float. Before doing the final surface I stretched a piece of string along each flangeway so they did not fill up with mortar, and just pulled the string out when it was all dry. The crossing was protected from rain and cats by laying some timber around it and covering with a plastic sheet while it dried.
Tony Willmore
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
Rhos Helyg Locomotive Works: http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/RhosHelygLocoWorks
-
- Retired Director
- Posts: 3536
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:00 pm
Similar to how the ptlr crossings are done exept insted of a check rail we run a sacraficial big big bogie when the cement is still soft to clear the flanges then when its still not quite fully hard we run a big heavy 0-4-0 to make sure they are clear.
Check rail is a good idea though, might consider for the future.
Check rail is a good idea though, might consider for the future.
http://www.freewebs.com/pinetreelightrailway/index.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
Cecil your engines on Fire!
Its a Mamod it does that.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests