Yes, I've tried that as well, and apart from the difficulty of heating 1.5mm steel sheetdewintondave wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 5:09 am ...I've been using the soldering iron to distribute the solder...
(particularly with high temp soft solder like Comsol, which melts at around 300degC),
soldering iron will not apply pre-tin in a thin even coat as well as one is able to do it with silicone brush.
At least this is my experience YMMV
Of course for brass, relatively thin and using standard tin/lead solder, there is nothing wrong with soldering iron.
I use dishwasher to clean and neutralise things after solderng - never had any problems with rust.
Used Fluxite and similar before and they are perfectly adequate for normal tin/lead and lead free, not sure about high temperatures
(I tended to end up with black mess ).
Bakers Fluid is officially recomended (by Comsol people) flux for use with their solder.
Nothing is "inexpensive" if you are in UK
Sterling exchange rate has gone down so much of the last couple of years...
So I will probably stick to the choices available locally
Thank you for the links to Sunset Valley and Llagas Creek Railways- most useful info.GTB wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:49 am I'm using Accucraft code 250 rail which is available in the US and Aust., but I don't know if Accucraft UK stock it.
The rail profile is the same as Sunset Valley rail and they are interchangeable.
I've just been through all this while planning my new track.............
Don't think they do Accucraft code 250 rail here, but I could be wrong?
Yes, but this one is only bullhead and if you want to use his track, it is canted 1:10 instead of the correct 1:20tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat Jan 19, 2019 10:55 am Just to make choosing even harder check out Cliff Barker's code 180 rail...
That's quite an error and it is noticable (unless he has replaced the tooling? but I doubt...)