Garden Railway Forum

Hi,

I need a small length (75mm minimum) of 12mm copper pipe and one 12mm 90 degree elbow.

The local places where I live do not stock 12mm so if anyone has some left over bits lying around will pay.

Cheers!

Tom

12mm OD copper pipe, rare as rocking horse droppings.

We had a house that for some reason was plumbed with this stuff. I used these people for the odd length for repairs.

https://www.stevensonplumbing.co.uk/

Half inch (12.7mm) no good?
Grant.

It's got to fit inside the chimney of a Lady Anne loco so it needs to be 12mm apparently.

I want to make a pipe shown in this video (shown from 4:20 onwards) for clearing condensate:

tom_tom_go wrote: Thu Nov 23, 2017 12:35 pm It's got to fit inside the chimney of a Lady Anne loco so it needs to be 12mm apparently.

This I take it is for the coal fired loco.? On gas fired locos I use a brass cap that blocks the chimney and sends all the oil and water downwards until the cylinders clear........

I just measured a Roundhouse Lady Anne/Katie chimney cap and it has a 12.5mm internal dia. Which is what I'd call a rattly fit for a 12mm pipe.

If the UK is a metric copper pipe free zone, K&S has a 15/32" size brass tube that would work, as the OD is 11.9mm. Just cut off a piece and solder it into a 1/2" elbow with plenty of solder.

If all else fails, get a piece of 1/2" x 18g (or even 20g) tube and file or sand down the end until it fits. There will be plenty of metal left.

Regards,
Graeme

Thanks Graeme, will see what I can find and botch up.

Tom so sorry for my ignorance, but why do you need to use that please...I haven’t heard anyone talk about these before...

If you watch the video it makes sense (this is for a coal fired loco not gas remember).

I did watch the video Tom, but why would you use one please.

Can’t or do I need one for gas fired.

Had another think about this and realised why am I trying to cover the entire chimney when all I need is a pipe to cover the exhaust pipe.

The exhaust nozzle is 4mm in diameter so I have ordered a small length of 6mm copper pipe which I will heat and bend to an angle so I can catch the condensate on start up in a piece of cloth (no more showering the loco in oil).

Be interested to hear if you have any problems with exhaust back pressure by putting the condensate clearing pipe directly over the exhaust pipe/blast nozzle Tom.

My Riverdale Elke conversion is still pending - I wish to run my Billy under radio control first before continuing with the conversion.

Chris Cairns

FWLR wrote: Thu Nov 30, 2017 3:13 pm I did watch the video Tom, but why would you use one please.

Can’t or do I need one for gas fired.

For my gas fired locos without a chuffer pipe fitted I loosely hold a piece of rag or kitchen towel over the chimney to catch the condensate being cleared out of the cylinders/pipework at the start of a run.

Chris Cairns

Thanks Chris.

I will let you know Chris.

tom_tom_go wrote: Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:40 pm Had another think about this and realised why am I trying to cover the entire chimney when all I need is a pipe to cover the exhaust pipe.

You won't know until you try it, but..........

The diverter pipe over the blast pipe won't cause any exhaust back pressure, as the bore is larger than the blast pipe.

What it will do is destroy the draft by extending the blast outside the smokebox where it can't draw the fire and the fire will then die back, or maybe even go out.

Regards,
Graeme

I am not going to cover the blower pipe so I don't see this being a problem if the blower is on and giving draught to the fire.

The pipe will be only placed on start up for around 30 seconds if that.

Well it fits but I did have to drill out the hole a bit as it's quite snug (should of gone for 8mm but hey ho):


When our awful English weather clears up I can test it.