Revamping the stream

[ge_rik]

Yes, it is very satisfying to worth with and your mill is looking good so far.

I've been meaning to ask for ages, roughly, how long is your stream, end to end? its difficult to get a handle on from the various videos, because it has so many different viewpoints.

Hi Philip
It's roughly three metres long. The upper narrow bit is about a metre until it passes under the mainline and the other feed pipe joins it, then the lower wider section is about two metres.

Rik

[tom_tom_go]

That looks great Rik.

How long did that side take?

[philipy]

It's roughly three metres long. The upper narrow bit is about a metre until it passes under the mainline and the other feed pipe joins it, then the lower wider section is about two metres.

Rik

Thanks.
That is amazing, I'd have thought it was at least double that.

It gives me serious food for thought because I've wanted to incorporate a stream since I first started but didn't think I'd have the length. I only have one location where it might work and that comes out to be almost exactly 3 metres!

[ge_rik]

That looks great Rik.

How long did that side take?

Hi Tom
Difficult to say as I've been doing it in short bursts. I've spent roughly two half days on it so far, so around six hours in total. However, as I'm drawing the plans and consulting photos as I do it, probably around four or five hours of actual construction time.

Rik

[Maple]

This post does not help me , i struggling to fight the urge to build a scale canal boat with canal............

More great work though Rik

[philipy]

This post does not help me , i struggling to fight the urge to build a scale canal boat with canal............

That would be a heck of a project! In 16mil, a 70ft narrow boat would come out at about 1100mm x 110mm, so your canal would need to be around 300mm wide.

[Maple]

This is the problem. I may have to loose some railway to fit it in . i thought of building mini canal boats with a mini canal. But wonder if it would just no look right and go for a little stream instead. More thoughts need i think, your stream does look very good

[FWLR]

Hi Rik,

Yes i did mean a video of your Mill, but that looks great work. What thickness board do you use for your buildings, i presume you use different thickness boards for roofs etc. And where can i buy some from please.

[FWLR]

This is the problem. I may have to loose some railway to fit it in . i thought of building mini canal boats with a mini canal. But wonder if it would just no look right and go for a little stream instead. More thoughts need i think, your stream does look very good

Why don’t you do some canoes instead or small sailing boats.

[ge_rik]

Hi Rik,

Yes i did mean a video of your Mill, but that looks great work. What thickness board do you use for your buildings, i presume you use different thickness boards for roofs etc. And where can i buy some from please.

Hi Rod
I'm using the source mentioned in FBGR's thread - http://www.foamboardonline.co.uk/5mm_Fo ... oam_PVC_A3

They have a special offer going at the moment; ten A3 sheets of 5mm PVC board for £10. A heck o a lot cheaper than plasticard. I'm using 5mm board for all parts.

Rik

[philipy]

I'm using the source mentioned in FBGR's thread - http://www.foamboardonline.co.uk/5mm_Fo ... oam_PVC_A3

They have a special offer going at the moment; ten A3 sheets of 5mm PVC board for £10. A heck o a lot cheaper than plasticard. I'm using 5mm board for all parts.

I can confirm it's good stuff. I've used it for my new station building and I ordered some more only yesterday. The special offer has changed...it's now only £9 for ten sheets!

[Big Jim]

A very nice raging torrent.
16mm scale trout next?

[FWLR]

Thanks Rik and Phillip, just ordered 2 packs.

[ge_rik]

Done a bit more work on the mill building. Now completed the walls for the ends and the rear of the building. I'm finding working with foamboard to be really rewarding. Impressing the brickwork, although a bit tedious, is very therapeutic and satisfying as the courses can be tailored.

Note: There is no need for brickwork on the lower half of the rear as it backs on to a raised siding. Similarly, on one side will be a leanto.

20170917_150804.jpg (228.14 KiB) Viewed 4973 times

20170917_150712.jpg (223.93 KiB) Viewed 4973 times

Rik

[ge_rik]

That looks great Rik.

How long did that side take?

Hi Tom
I timed myself completing the rear wall. It took a total of 2h 27m.

• Marking-up = 1h 33m
  Cutting out = 12m
  Horizontal scribing = 14m
  Vertical impressing = 28m

I've speeded up since the first wall. Also, this wall has around half covered in bricks, so add another half hour or so for the additional scribing and impressing Making around 3h in total for one wall.

Rik

[tom_tom_go]

Well done Rik, I am very impressed and tempted to try this myself now the evenings are starting to draw in.

[bazzer42]

Looking good Rik. it is lovely stuff to use and I will be using my stocks as a base for some shed building this winter although probably clad with wood this time. I found brick work taxing but worth the effort. How are you mortaring when you paint? I used to use red oxide car spray and then paint a coat of exterior grey quickly wiped off that toned down the red and left nice grey mortar joints.

[ge_rik]

Looking good Rik. it is lovely stuff to use and I will be using my stocks as a base for some shed building this winter although probably clad with wood this time. I found brick work taxing but worth the effort. How are you mortaring when you paint? I used to use red oxide car spray and then paint a coat of exterior grey quickly wiped off that toned down the red and left nice grey mortar joints.

Not decided yet. I had considered the opposite to your suggestion -ie slopping a yellowy grey mix on then wiping it off so it remains in the mortar courses and then using a sponge to dab on the brick colour. Then pick out some indivdual bricks in slight variations of the brick colour.

I'll have to do some experimenting to see which approach works the best.

Rik

[bazzer42]

have to admit my brick colour was pretty uniform and could have done with some variation in colours.

[Peter Butler]

When I used the moulded brick pattern plastic sheet I first sprayed everything with grey plastic primer then, when dry, used a dry-brush method of painting across the bricks diagonally with two or three red/brown colours to give variation. The dry brush has enough paint to leave a mark but not enough paint to flood into the mortar joins, also the diagonal strokes avoid the same problem.