Garden Railway Forum

I have been using Zap-A-Gap for many years but now started using 2 part epoxy which allows more time to fiddle to get parts in the right place plus it works well with stuff I leave outside. It also glues pretty much anyting to anything (wood, metal, etc).

Trouble is I have to mix it each time and always have wastage of unused glue so does anyone use something that is pre-mixed but just as good?

Thanks,

Tom

I use titebond PVA for wood bits as it is stronger and dries quicker than standard PVA, comes in waterproof too. Else I use various grades of cyanoacrylate, thick or thin with zapper.

With epoxy I mix very small amounts on a tin lid, warmed over a flame, it makes it runnier, so easier to mix and it sets faster.

Waterproof PVA or Industrial Superglue are my main weapons in this dept

I used superglue accelerator this weekend - wow, really made a difference - made bonding resin building sides so much easier - instead of having to sit there for ages holding the bits together, they were stuck solid within seconds - the first time, a bit too fast nearly but luckily I was able to re-position.

I've never really used epoxy for modelling because of the reason you say - I always end up wasting a lot - the same when I've used it around the house - you want to make sure you have enough to do the whole job so always err on the side of caution!

I have seen industrial superglue recommended elsewhere on the net, like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/E6000-Multi-Pu ... B0083I8LP2

Boustrophedon wrote: Mon May 29, 2017 4:46 pm With epoxy I mix very small amounts on a tin lid, warmed over a flame, it makes it runnier, so easier to mix and it sets faster.

Never thought of doing this, thanks.

tom_tom_go wrote: Tue May 30, 2017 12:56 pm I have seen industrial superglue recommended elsewhere on the net, like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/E6000-Multi-Pu ... B0083I8LP2

I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-Indu ... B006PFN3BW

Cheaper than shop bought stuff, you get loads, it works better than most high street stuff on its own AND is super good (sorry couldn't resist it) with the accelerator

I tend to use 'Roket' superglues from Deluxe these days. They are a bit more expensive but you know what you're getting.

Rik

Rocket superglue for me as well.
Q bond is very good stuff as well. Cyno and a filler powder for large gaps.

Poundshop superglue in bottles, If it goes solid on me, I ain't going to cry over £1. If I want the thick stuff though I have to go to a model shop.

tom_tom_go wrote: Tue May 30, 2017 12:57 pm

Boustrophedon wrote: Mon May 29, 2017 4:46 pm With epoxy I mix very small amounts on a tin lid, warmed over a flame, it makes it runnier, so easier to mix and it sets faster.

Never thought of doing this, thanks.

But not very H & S accdeptable. I prefer to use a heat gun (or hair dryer) to speed up curing of make it flow better.
I recently tried Gorilla glue and Gator glue on a couple of domestic projects. I liked both glues for their intended usage, but found it difficult to seal the bottles and keep them airtight (despite the supplied caps) thus after some usage, the glue solidified inside the spout and skinned over in the bottle, making the next usage a much bigger job, getting the glue out of the bottle.
My "run- to" adhesive of choice is UHU. Not many people realise that this has the property of being flexible when dry (I used to use it for repairing concertina bellows in a past life).
Peter

Boustrophedon wrote: Thu Jun 01, 2017 8:43 pm Poundshop superglue in bottles, If it goes solid on me, I ain't going to cry over £1. If I want the thick stuff though I have to go to a model shop.

A tip once given to me by a friend - keep superglue in the fridge - it will keep for longer.

oldchadders wrote: Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:50 pm
A tip once given to me by a friend - keep superglue in the fridge - it will keep for longer.

Mainly because you can't subsequently get the fridge door open to be able to use it!!