NWNG Railways No.1

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Cut the tumblehome curves on the end panels and scribed and stained their internal planking today.
Outer view just propped up to show tumblehome.

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And inner.

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I can now finish and attach the beading to the end panels.
David.

[Soar Valley Light]

Lovely work again David - and really effective photos!

Andrew

[River Lin]

Hi all.
I have now been able to copy the curves from the lower edges of the coach ends onto the beading panels, complete the cutting out and glue on.

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Could'nt wait to see how it looks in its rough state. I am really pleased with how the beading makes the curve stand out.
David.

[LNR]

That is going to look a picture when finished. Question, do the drop lights on the real thing drop right down to the sill. I notice that yours appears about to enter the tumblehome curve and wondered do the real ones have enough thickness in the wall to allow for this.
Grant.

[JMORG]

Looking good!
Just so you know, the FR is planning on building a replica of this carriage...

[River Lin]

Grant.
Hi. In the photo of the 12inch to the foot coach in my first post on this thread. It looks like the droplights do indeed drop down to the sill. Due to how i am making my model, my windows are designed to drop down about 2/3 so they do not jam in the tumblehome. (See photo 5 earlier.)

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David.

[River Lin]

JMORG
Hi. If they do i hope they put luxury in the 1st class compartment as indicated by the original plan. I bet someone will then bring out a laser cut16mm kit.
David.

[JMORG]

I suspect that if 1st class is put back in it will be similar to the bowsiders and iron framed stock. When carriage 152 enters service, the current carriage 100 is going to be refitted as a third class top obs like 123. The old first class seats may end up in other stock like the NWNGR brake comp.

[River Lin]

Hi Peter et al.
Following on the thread of how i made the tumblehome using lamination of wood layers, i thought i would tackle the guards duckets next. I knew that it is possible to use steam or boiling water to soften plasticard. It could then be formed to the required shape, held till cold and it will then retain its new shape. My experience is that even though it was cold when the pressure was released it slowly straightened out again to almost its original shape - flat.
I next decided to try laminating using two pieces of 0.6mm plasticard cut to width but longer to allow for cutting to length when finished.
I first boiled the kettle again. Got a round metal former and a bottle of MEK ready. I put the twp pieces of p.card into a cup and immersed in boiling water for a minute to soften them. I then quickly dried the pieces on tissue, applied MEK to one for about 2 cms from one end, put the two pieces together and rolled and held them tightly around the former for about 5 minutes for the MEK to dry.

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I repeated this for the other ducket and then cut the curved end to length.

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The next stage was to measure and fold the lower part of the ducket inwards and then part the layers slightly to allow MEK to be brushed between and held in place to cure. This gave me the following when the lower end was also cut to length.

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A strip of p.card was cut 10mm wide and the ducket used as a template to draw the shape which was then cut with a knife.

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The window was cut as a rectangle with a knife and the ends rounded with a needle file.

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The ducket components now need cleaning and glueing before fitting.
I realise it would have been easier to carve solid duckets from wood but i want them to look realistic from the coach interior with a seat fitted inside as per the plan.
David.

[Peter Butler]

Brilliant..... thanks for that, I will give it a try myself.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Glued duckets prior to cleaning.
I am pleased with the outcome. The laminated body of the ducket gives a good rigidity even though the plasticard was initially guite thin. With the body pieces set to shape it was fairly easy to use them as a template to mark, cut and sand the sides prior to gluing in position.

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David.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
This is a landmark stage i like to get to. Four sides glued and floor in. Now to work on -
Internal fitting out.
External beading.
Underframe including wheels and couplings.
Removeable roof including lighting.
Sounds a lot of work but i will cut and fit the internal compartment partitions first to increase the rigidity of the structure.

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Enjoy your weekend all. I'm looking forward to a steamup in Buckinghamshire tomorrow with my Lady Ann and some of my other WHR/NWNG stock.
David.

[LNR]

Just love that tumblehome!
Grant.

[pandsrowe]

I always thought that the majority of kit manufacturers had the right idea with their simple slab sides, easy to produce and easy to build. Now seeing your build l have completely revised my opinion.
Tumblehomes are a definite must.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
I have cut the partitions to width but while thinking about the height i looked back at my paperwork to see that the coach had 3 roof oil lamps. It seems that the central 1st. Class compartment had a lamp of its own but the two compartments either side of this one shared a lamp between each pair. This must mean that the partitions between them must have been shorter than full height to allow for this.
Because of this i am now working on the roof so that when the lighting is in place i know how much below full height to make the partitions.

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The photo shows the frame i am making for the roof including a few of the extra spars that i will fit to add strength. I am making these large enough to allow for an 8mm space between the coach roof and the internal ceiling panelling to allow the lighting components to fit between.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
After cutting a roof from 1mm ply and allowing a 5mm overhang i am ready to construct the roof. I won't go into too much detail on this as i have posted on a previous thread my method for doing this.
Basically i use the horizontal pipe grooves on my Black and Decker Workmate to bend the roof downwards, using the curved end pieces as templates, until the curve is correct. I can then glue the roof frame in place after having marked a centre line on the curved end pieces and the roof to allow me to position the frame centrally. I use woodworkers pva for gluing as i need a good strong permanent fix.

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Once the frame has started to grip i can then glue in the extra spars to give extra strength along the length of the roof.
I then leave the whole unit for 24 hours to dry before releasing the pressure.

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I was able to leave the unit in the vice until about 3 this afternoon before releasing the pressure, crossing my fingers and trying on the coach.

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YES!!!! Result.
Now i need a trip to the model shop for another sheet of ply to make the internal coach ceiling before fitting the lighting. I can then go back to cutting the partitions to height.

David.

[pandsrowe]

David,
I do like your technique for getting the curve on you roof panels, it looks to be very controllable. Do you find that there is any relaxation in the curve when you remove the assembly from the work mate?
In the past I have usually wrapped my roof panels around a suitable curved object e.g. drainpipe and then soaked in hot water and then allowed to dry naturally. Although this does work it is rather a hit and miss process to ensure that you end up with the correct curve.

[LNR]

That coach is looking better and better.
Grant.

[River Lin]

Hi all.
Thanks Grant.
Phil. It all stays pretty solid. The two side rails under the roof and the extra spars help to hold the shape by adding stiffness and i don't skimp on type of glue used. A good quality wood glue is important that dries solid and i always leave it a good 24 hours before releasing the pressure. This roof was left for 28 hours.

[Maple]

amazing work, very jealous.

i am sure it will be a show winner when done