Garden Railway Forum

MSS LOCOMOTIVE WHEEL WIDTH CONVERSION

When I wanted detailed  information on how to convert the wheel width that information was hard to come by. With the advice given to me by the MSS staff I was able to launch into the project and at the same time produce this tutorial hoping it will help anyone wanting to modify the loco wheel width gauge.

The change normally is from 0 gauge to 1 gauge. However I used the workshop engine which was already in gauge 1 mode so the conversion is from 1 gauge to 0 gauge.

The principles are the same which ever direction you go.

Note:
If you are doing it in the normal direction of gauge 0 to gauge 1, then you will need to buy a "Conversion Set". This provides a conversion blocks to widen the cylinders from each other, the longer cylinder fixing screws and the wider wheels.

If you ever decide to tackle this job I hope you find this tutorial makes life a little easier.

To assist with this project I have photographed the major steps. Need help? Call 0777 552 1452.


 Engine looking good in '1' gauge.

 Remove the cab back by pulling backwards.

Remove the burner tray.

Unscrew the side screws.
Be careful not to let the screwdriver slip off the screw head.

Remove the frame spacer screws.

Start to remove the port face screws.

Continue to remove those screws by gripping the exposed nuts. It is better to use a small spanner of course.

Remove the cylinder assembly with the port face. Conversion block removed as well.

Very carefully, and without any distractions pick off the circlips.
Put your hand holding the engine over the area to stop the circlip flying off into oblivion.

Circlips removed. with the washers.

Lift off the coupling rods.

Remove the buffers and the drag beam.

METHOD 1 TO REMOVE WHEELS

Squeeze the main frame together.

Remove the wheels by pulling out the axles. Then it is possible to start
the reassembly. It's quick but could slightly bend the main frame.

METHOD 2 TO REMOVE WHEELS

Engine at the ready for wheels removal.

Now remove the main frame with wheels attached.

Insert the new axles into the main frame and use the spacer to hold it all together.

Fit the main frame with wheels back into the body.

Sometimes the holes don't seem to line up.

Use a couple of bradels to position the main frame to the reversing valve.

Fit all of the screws but do not tighten yet.

Fit the cylinder assembly with post face and gasket to the frame.

When everything feels lined up, tighten the screws but not tight enough to break any screws or strip threads. This is possible!

Refit the drag beam and buffers.

Job done.

Very useful and very well illustrated instructions; I'm sure that people will find it useful. Fortunately my 40 year old Mamod was built from a kit which had everything needed to build as either 32mm or, as my case, 45mm gauge, so I have never needed to do a conversion. It has also been converted to gas i.s.o pellets.

Hi Modelenthusiasts,

On the basis that there are no dumb questions, can I ask why there is a need for the part "gauge 1 conversion block". Logically the relationship between the wheels and the cylinders has not changed?

Tim

Hi Tim,

Thank you, it is a very good question. If going from 0 to 1:

1. We widen the cylinders from each other using widening blocks called a conversion blocks. In a way its like a thick metal gasket (fibre gasket is still required).

2. The wider wheels are inserted into the frame.

Then we have wheels and cylinders of equal width.

It took me yonks to find this out. It was as though those who knew didn't want me to know! Well it felt a bit like that. So I got an engine and with a bit of guidance from MSS launched into it. It quite simple when you know how.

Thanks modelenthusiasts,

So the frames remain the same distance apart, only the wheels and cylinders move out in the conversion?

Tim

Exactly that Tim. Frames width does not change.