Garden Railway Forum

tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:28 am Nicely done Dave, looks like it has been CNC'd as well.

Thanks Tom. Power to my elbow

Dear LBSC would have had it done in 30 mins, all the high tech guys these days would be struggling on their .dxf files and sending them to the laser cutters etc. lol

dewintondave wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:07 am One evenings cut...

Iv'e sure been there many times Dave, as I'm sure you have as well. One thing to have the material, but when you have to cut seriously into the middle of it, the old hacksaw needs a bit of thought. And as often happens you remove most of the centre and look at what's left. Still worth it in the end. Brings to mind dreams of ones own laser cutter or something similar!
Grant.

LNR wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:37 am Iv'e sure been there many times Dave, as I'm sure you have as well. One thing to have the material, but when you have to cut seriously into the middle of it, the old hacksaw needs a bit of thought. And as often happens you remove most of the centre and look at what's left. Still worth it in the end. Brings to mind dreams of ones own laser cutter or something similar!
Grant.

It's character building stuff Grant.
The hacksaw can't cut nearly that deep, so after a while it's transfer to the padsaw using a section of hacksaw blade, cutting on the pull stroke so not to buckle the blade.

dewintondave wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:56 am It's character building stuff Grant.

Maybe Dave, though I think I've called it a few other things too.
I bought a hand nibbler for getting into brass and steel on the likes of loco cab work, and apart from hurting like hell after a few centimetres, the cut is 4.5mm wide. Still it does get into some awkward places.
As Tom said, your finished one piece footplate looks good and that's what counts in the end.
Grant.

dewintondave wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:56 am The hacksaw can't cut nearly that deep, so after a while it's transfer to the padsaw using a section of hacksaw blade, cutting on the pull stroke so not to buckle the blade.

An Eclipse No. 55 sheet metal saw uses a hacksaw blade and can cut any length of straight cut, but they are now out of production and there are no chinese or indian copies. Used ones turn up on Ebay etc. from time to time.

I can't remember when I last used a hacksaw, as the third machine tool I bought was a metal cutting bandsaw. Originally it was for cutting wheel blanks, but I've also found it useful for roughing out frames. Takes about half an hour to knock out all the frame and headstock blanks for a 1:20 scale loco and the cut is straighter than I can manage with a hacksaw.

For lighter bodywork parts and the openings in frames, especially bar frames, I prefer to use a deep frame piercing saw with a range of blades. Mine has a cut depth of 200mm, but they are available up to 300mm.

I've looked at laser cutting, but with minimum order costs, computer and travel time, it's quicker and much cheaper to cut parts myself. Once you get into the sawing rhythm, the stress levels are lower as well.........

Regards,
Graeme

dewintondave wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:56 am ......... cutting on the pull stroke so not to buckle the blade.

Now that's useful. Do you put the blade in 'backwards' then?

Rik

I found an air powered nibbler very handy for roughing out steel sheet. Versions that fit into a battery drill are also available, although I have never used one.

GTB wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:58 am An Eclipse No. 55 sheet metal saw uses a hacksaw blade and can cut any length of straight cut, but they are now out of production and there are no chinese or indian copies. Used ones turn up on Ebay etc. from time to time.

I can't remember when I last used a hacksaw, as the third machine tool I bought was a metal cutting bandsaw. Originally it was for cutting wheel blanks, but I've also found it useful for roughing out frames. Takes about half an hour to knock out all the frame and headstock blanks for a 1:20 scale loco and the cut is straighter than I can manage with a hacksaw.

For lighter bodywork parts and the openings in frames, especially bar frames, I prefer to use a deep frame piercing saw with a range of blades. Mine has a cut depth of 200mm, but they are available up to 300mm.

I've looked at laser cutting, but with minimum order costs, computer and travel time, it's quicker and much cheaper to cut parts myself. Once you get into the sawing rhythm, the stress levels are lower as well.........

Regards,
Graeme

Thanks Graeme. I have resisted buying any new machinery. I have a full set of piercing blades, and a couple of saws.

ge_rik wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 12:26 pm
Now that's useful. Do you put the blade in 'backwards' then?

Rik

That's right Rik. I've got a Stanley handle that only takes hacksaw blades.

Big Jim wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:25 pm I found an air powered nibbler very handy for roughing out steel sheet. Versions that fit into a battery drill are also available, although I have never used one.

I've used a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw

An Eclipse No. 55 sheet metal saw in case anyone is interested. I think you could make one fairly easily.
Grant.
PS hijacked the thread, sorry.

LNR wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:56 am An Eclipse No. 55 sheet metal saw in case anyone is interested.

I think you could make one fairly easily.
Grant.

I saw the very same image on that UK site! It took me right back to my childhood, when my mates Dad had one in his workshop.

It would only be good for cutting the exterior of the foot plate. The long faces of the internal cut-out was done with my adjustable hacksaw set over 90 deg. But before that five adjoining 3mm holes were drilled for each of the four internal cuts, and then needle-filed out enough to pass the saw blade through. A labour of love, which gives the engine inbuilt good karma

A bit of fitting and hey presto!



I'm going to hinge the firebox door from the footplate, it's easiest.

With such a lovely clean smokebox interior I'm thinking of alternative firing methods, like on prestige models

Love it Dave.

Thank you Graeme, I snapped up a fine example of an Eclipse 55 locally. It fits in nicely on the workshop wall



Onwards and upwards!

I'm fixing the footplate to the frames with eight pieces of angle. 8BA screws all the way! I cut the angles on the lathes vertical slide using a slitting saw. This got them nice and square, and all the same length. I drilled them on the vertical slide too, getting the holes in all the same places. I was then able to drill the buffer beams at the same setting as the lower jaw of the vice was the datum. The best workshop tip I have ever read was "Don't break down a set-up (until you have to)"

1/4" Brass angle


The buffer beam pieces are all secured, ready for drilling through the footplate


The drill was just long enough!


I can mount the remaining four pieces above the axleboxes, these could then used as attachments for fake suspension leaf springs...

I've got the week off work, and the weather is terrible, so... More footplate frolics

I had to make a great big hole for the lubricator cap in the right place, holesaw and then lots of filing to a scribed line, and then fitting...


Lining up the centre of the axlebox slots in the vertical slide to drill for the footplate angle pieces



All eight angle pieces finally fitted, lots of 8BA screws

That is so impressive Dave, looks like another master of engineering on the forum.

I used to set and operate a CNC punch press and boy was it loud....

I'm following your build thread with great interest. Very nice work Dave!
How do you manage those nice straight straight cuts in thick sheet metal?

FWLR wrote: ↑Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:55 am That is so impressive Dave, looks like another master of engineering on the forum.

I used to set and operate a CNC punch press and boy was it loud....

Thank you Rod!

I love machinery