Changing of a Roundhouse Silver Lady - Steamy Clare

[tom_tom_go]

I have been very tempted with the Deltang RC gear since Rik started showing us all the benefits this system brings to controlling locos through his blog and now shop www.rctrains.co.uk

My concern with the system at the time was how was I to control the servo that operates the simulated drains cocks.  A few exchanges of messages with Rik and it all came together as the 'Inertia' control knob can be programed to operate an independent channel i.e. another servo.

So I ordered the RCT-Tx24 and RCT-Rx102 which all arrived promptly with loads of documentation to explain how to set it all up and re-program:

RCT-Tx24

RCT-Rx102


The smaller size of the Rx102 over the Roundhouse factory fitted RC plane Rx meant I could now fit a DC charging jack and battery with the existing switch harness all in one side tank!



The battery sits on top of the switch harness when the body is attached to the chassis.

My set up is configured so that:

Bind button = whistle
Direction knob = reverser
Inertia knob = simulated drain cocks
Speed knob = regulator

I tested today between the thunder and lightening and I am impressed with the finer control gained on the regulator over a RC plane transmitter joystick.  I also love the smaller size of the Tx24 and now I have the ability to control another 11 locos or accessories such as point or signal servos when connected to their own Rx and controller using a Picaxe chip or Arduino device.

When the weather improves I will post a video of the set up in action although if like me you have been wondering if Deltang would work in a live steam loco I can confidently say it does and you will not be disappointed with it.  My only regret is Rik did not set up RC Trains sooner so I could of fitted his gear to all my locos rather than traditional RC plane equipment.

So thanks for bringing your version of Deltang to market Rik, excellent products

[tom_tom_go]

Roof finished with magnets in place:

[tom_tom_go]

So I finally have a SSP slomo! It was a hard choice between fitting this to my Riverdale Amy or my first loco purchase my Roundhouse Silver Lady but as a gas loco is quicker to get running the SL got the vote.

The SL has a servo that operates the 'simulated drain cocks' which is a slide valve that directs the exhaust up the chimney or through piping under the cylinders. The RH factory servo rod occupied the space where the slomo needed to be fitted so a new one was made.

Mock up rod made from electrical wire:

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Finished item with original rod pictured:

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I need to paint the new wheels before fitting as the original insulated wheels cannot be used with a slomo when you run 32mm gauge.

[tom_tom_go]

New wheels drying, nearly time to steam her up!

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[tom_tom_go]

I have reached live steam utopia

[daan]

Very smooth performance.. Bravo!

[markoteal]

Now that is slooooooooow - well done!

[tom_tom_go]

It all fits rather well...

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[LNR]

Big smiles all round I imagine, Tom.
Grant.

[philipy]

Quite amazing when compared to the average SL video. Well done Tom.

[JonPotter]

Really smooth slow running! Must get a slomo or two...

[tom_tom_go]

Really smooth slow running! Must get a slowmo or two...

Cannot recommend the slomo enough!

[big-ted]

How do you think a SloMo-equipped loco would do for "mainline" running? When I run by myself, I love the idea of shunting a couple of wagons back and forth at scale speeds, but at club running days I'm pretty much stuck doing continuous running at constant speed. I'd be concerned that the SloMo would put increased wear on the motion and reduce run times?

[tom_tom_go]

How do you think a SloMo-equipped loco would do for "mainline" running? When I run by myself, I love the idea of shunting a couple of wagons back and forth at scale speeds, but at club running days I'm pretty much stuck doing continuous running at constant speed. I'd be concerned that the SloMo would put increased wear on the motion and reduce run times?

The slomo does not reduce top speed so if you feel the need to run your loco like a class A4 then you can.

I can push/pull my SL in 'neutral' with my finger so I would not be concerned with wear on the motion.

As for run times I can still get the loco to plod along at 20 psi with the gas turned right down.

I am so happy with the device that I have another slomo on order for my Riverdale Amy

[alex_rowe]

Hi Tom, hi forum,

Not often do you come across a thread which matches what you're after so well...

Amazing job on your loco, by the way. My paint is all still sealed, in its packaging, until I get the proverbials to have a go!

You've done two mods which I am trying to emulate exactly on my Silver Lady:

• changing the factory RH r/c to a RC TRAINS receiver (already have a transmitter and, in a battery loco, a receiver)

• Fitting a SSP SLOMO (ordered, hopefully with me in January) with a replacement drain cock servo.

With the former, I'd love to know whether I can simply disconnect one receiver and connect another, whether it's just soldering that's required, and how to reprogramme functions and servo ranges of movement - if that's necessary.

With the latter, it'd be nice to have the dimensions of your replacement servo rod, what thickness and type of wire you used, and info on the connections at the ends of the rod.

I look forward to being able to contribute - when I know a bit more!

Cheers,


Alex

[tom_tom_go]

Hi Alex, glad you made it from YouTube to here.

First question, you mention a replacement drain cock servo. I did not change the stock one fitted to my Silver Lady so why are you unless Roundhouse have changed the servo layout of the loco since I purchased mine and you cannot fit the Slomo with the current servo fitted?

With the Deltang RC Trains install I did not have to make any changes to the existing wiring or servo adjustment other than fit a servo reverser for the whistle servo as I am using the bind button to activate that servo and you cannot change the 'throw' on the bind button. As you can see in my pictures I did away with the AA battery pack that Roundhouse use in the roof and bought a battery pack to fit in the body but I don't think you want to do this as you mention you already have a a battery?

The servo rod is a standard Roundhouse one so order a couple in case you make a mistake and snap one on your first attempt (I did). It is difficult for me to give you exact dimensions of the rod as it is now installed in the loco so I would suggest you build a mock rod like I did (using easier to bend electrical wire) and then when you are happy use that design for the actual servo rod you intend to you. When you bend the servo rod heat it up as it will be easier but don't go mad with the heat as it's not durable enough to withstand high temperatures.

The rod is threaded at one end which is where you will screw the slide valve back on that controls the flow of steam up the chimney or out the pipework under the cylinders. The other end needs to hook into the servo arm. I found it difficult to bend such a small hook that was in the right position for the servo so I bent the end of the rod into a L-shape instead and then soldered a brass washer on top of the rod so that it would not pop out.

Hope that's enough to get you started but it you need further help let me know.

It makes a change for me to help someone else railway wise (maybe I am getting older and wiser)

[alex_rowe]

Hello from the other side (of Christmas.)

Thanks for that very comprehensive reply, and for welcoming me to the forum.

My first boo-boo: I didn't mean servo, just the servo rod. I'll do as you suggest and get a couple from RH, so they're already threaded etc. If I'm changing it to incorporate 2 right angles, won't it need to be longer, though? I have a friend from work who has offered to help - he's building a 5" gauge Black 5, of all things, so has the kit (and more).

As for the RC Trains receiver (Rx102 ordered), it sounds like it will work a dream. I don't have a whistle on my RH loco, yet, but perhaps it would be wise to allow for that now to save tinkering later. Otherwise, is it just a question of taking out the factory RH receiver and soldering the RC trains one in, pin for pin? I thought I'd have to programme it "and stuff"...

Exciting times...

[artfull dodger]

I have fitted a Slomo to my RH Billy that is under construction. Why not just undo the grub screw if you want to run at a quicker track speed without the slight gear whine or drag of the Slomo? I am going to break in my Billy this way for atleast the first few runs. I prefer to run a "scale" speed with my narrow gauge engines, most gentlemen I see on youtube are running way to fast most of the time. Yes, running scale speeds without the Slomo is more challenging, even with good RC control, not so easy with manual control. Of coarse, a really good long or heavy train will tame a jackrabbit engine. But we do not seeing anybody say not to pull heavy trains. If you are doing proper maintance of your motion, flushing old oil and grit out and replacing with fresh oil, then wear should not be an issue. If it does eventually become an issue, new rods are but a phone call away, or drill them out and put bushings in them like the real engines have. Cant wait to run my Slomo fitted Billy! Back to working on him. Mike the Aspie

[tom_tom_go]

Hi Alex,

When you ring RH just ask for the Silver Lady simulated drain cock servo rod as they cut them down to save on postage costs.

You don't need to solder any of the RC Trains install, it's all plug and play.

[steamer68]

Hi Tom I have just finished reading this thread and you have done a stirling job on your loco build. I do really like the slow mo in the steaming of your loco.