Norinoo Jct. Railway

A place for the discussion of garden railways and any garden style/scale portable and/or indoor layouts
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Dwayne
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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 11, 2016 4:17 am

Grant, now you've got me rethinking the area of Mags to something as shown below.

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Post by LNR » Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:40 am

If operating is your thing, it does allow a lot of moves. Once you get the loco at the right end, one leg of the "Loop" can be a siding, either temporary or not.
 And here's me suggesting you build more points( Switches) something I would shy away from ha! ha!,  but full credit to your switch building mate.
P.S. don't know about the name. Don't want you detracting from your nice railway

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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:08 pm

I think I'll go with the change as it definitely will add to the operations. I've built both point and stub styles and am not daunted by the building switches at all. Not nearly as difficult as many think it is.

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Post by Dwayne » Sat Mar 12, 2016 2:34 am

Grant's suggestion of a run around at Mags has prompted me to go ahead and incorporate this feature.

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Post by Dwayne » Wed Mar 16, 2016 3:24 am

Began assembling a curved switch to be located at Mags.

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Post by Dwayne » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:01 am

Finished up the curved switch for Mags this evening. This was the first fixed point switch I've constructed, previous switches being hinged point versions. This one was much easier to build and will be the version I go with on all future switches.

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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 18, 2016 1:13 am

Installed the switch this evening. Unfortunately the primer I bought to use on the short section between the end of the previous track install and the switch is more of a "red oxide" color than the darker brown previously used. Other than that, I'm happy with how things are progressing. Next up is to build a switch for the siding going towards the pond and the switch to complete the run around.

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Post by LNR » Fri Mar 18, 2016 1:32 am

Dwayne, you're sure getting stuck into it.
Does the lack of a hinge in the point blades require much extra pressure on the change lever, which would be manual I presume?

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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 18, 2016 2:39 am

LNR:116832 wrote:Dwayne, you're sure getting stuck into it.
Does the lack of a hinge in the point blades require much extra pressure on the change lever, which would be manual I presume?
I've actually noticed less pressure is required on this switch to move it compared to the two other switches. They will all be manually operated. Keep in mind that I'm using code 250 aluminum rail. Can't say how brass or nickel silver rail in this code or larger would behave.

I foresee converting the other two switches to this type as well at a later date.

I'm considering making the switch going to the Mags siding a wye... just for giggles. :)

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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:07 am

The almost completed wye for the siding at Mags.

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Post by Dannypenguin » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:13 am

I'm liking the fact you're building the points yourself, they look nice and well built :thumbright:
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Post by Dwayne » Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:45 am

Thanks Dan. With each switch built the process becomes easier and more refined. They definitely are passable for a backwater narrow gauge railway operating on a shoestring.

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Post by Dwayne » Sat Mar 26, 2016 1:08 am

This evening I finished the wye and siding for Mags.

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Post by Dwayne » Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:49 am

This afternoon I started work on the third and final switch for the run around siding at Mags. Total time to build was about four hours. Hoping the weather cooperates enough tomorrow to get it and the rest of the track installed and move on to the passing siding up at Hope.

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Post by ge_rik » Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:09 am

Nothing beats the look of tailor made pointwork. I'm very envious of your skill and patience.

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Dwayne
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Post by Dwayne » Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:47 pm

Thank you Rik.

The first switch (a stub switch) I built was approached with trepidation. Once I got going and completed it, I was wondering why more folk don't build their own. It's very easy in our larger scales where the size of our equipment is forgiving of the small mistakes that may occur in the build process. Keep the track in gauge as it's assembled and everything comes together just fine.

The solid point style has become the version I prefer as they are easier to build with fewer parts. If I can do it anyone can.

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Post by Soar Valley Light » Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:15 pm

Dwayne,

Beautiful work, the quality of construction speaks for itself. It looks like you build them up on top of a template drawn out for the specific turnout but how do you set the radii?This is definitely the best way of fitting your railway where you want it, rather than fitting what you want around the limitations of standard 'off the shelf' alternatives. Well done!


Folks in General,

The correct British description of a track layout intended to get the loco from one end of the train to the other, using two turnouts and a parallel road, is a run ROUND loop. It allows the loco to run round from one end the train to the other. Running AROUND is an activity generally confined to over excited dogs and small children! Sincere apologies for being a pedant, I just can't help myself! :oops:
"Smith! Why do you only come to work four days a week?
"'cause I can't manage on three gaffer!"

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Post by Dwayne » Mon Mar 28, 2016 2:10 am

Thank you. I just wing it without using a template. I gradually bend the rail to fit the space until I get it close to where I want it. From that point it's just a matter of bending the additional components of the switch to match up to the first piece of rail that was bent. Trial and error more or less. Here's a photo of my railbender...

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So today I installed the final switch for the run around siding down near Mags. Since the siding going off towards the small pond has been designated at Mags Siding, I decided to name the run around as Keylock Loop. With a bit of daylight remaining I plunked the Davenport down on the rails, hooked up the three tanker cars (sans the tanks) and ran the train around a bit. The climb up to Norinoo Junction from Mags was a piece of cake. I haven't determined the grade, but it climbs about eight inches in 18 feet.

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Next on the agenda is to install two switches at Hope to get that planned run around in operation. I also need to determine where I want to have a siding for the engine shop located.

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Post by LNR » Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:14 am

At the rate your moving ahead, I expected a shot of a loco and trucks any time now. Looks really good Dwayne, I'm sure you will have a lot of fun just pushing wagons around the Mags area.
I am envious of your soil type, how does it go when it gets wet? Looks like it might stay where you put it, unlike mine.

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Post by Dwayne » Mon Mar 28, 2016 5:05 am

LNR:117014 wrote:At the rate your moving ahead, I expected a shot of a loco and trucks any time now. Looks really good Dwayne, I'm sure you will have a lot of fun just pushing wagons around the Mags area.
 I am envious of your soil type, how does it go when it gets wet? Looks like it might stay where you put it, unlike mine.
One of the reasons I'm pushing to get the track down is to get it in place before the plants get growing in earnest. The soil where I am located consists of about a foot of sandy loam atop clay. It drains fairly quickly even during some of the heaviest downpours. Once the ground cover gets established the soil stays put.

This portion of my yard was landscaped for the express purpose of the layout and still needs to fill in. Ground covers are Periwinkle and Creeping Charlie. Both do well in shade as my backyard is heavily shaded by several pecan trees, silver maples, laural oak and post oak. This being year two for the ground covers, they should start growing steadily this year.

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