Christmas project - a new diesel
Christmas project - a new diesel
My christmas project this year - build a diesel engine for my non-existent garden line. I should say that this is the first engine i have built, as until recently I have been a OO man, but a recent house move has seen me venture into the great outdoors.
So step one - i built up a Roundhouse Criccieth Castle chassis, as per instructions. All went well, only prob was that Roundhouse supplied the wrong crankpins, but i their customer service was exemplary and the correct pins were with me within a couple of days of emailing them:
No power yet, so chassis is just in push-along mode.
Several sheets of thick plastikard later, and i can now put together a footplate and battery holder:
Being new to this, I am finding my way on power and control. I have built the body to accommodate 8 x AA cells, which should give 9,6v. I am hoping this will run the engine and any comments woulkd be gratefully received!
My next job was to build the bonnet, cab and rear fuel tank as separate units. Also seen here is a tool box also made. I have fitted doors to bonnet side from 10 thou plasticard and they are ready to take the little fastening handles. The cab doors are separate pieces, and have little hinges etc.
Now we can put the whole lot together and get a feel of what it might look like:
What has taken most of my time is the little details. This morning i made windscreen wipers, door handles, silencer, handles for the nose panels and drilled out handrail knobs:
so thats where we have got to so far.
Stil to do, is the cab roof, exhaust, and window glazing. Not sure yet how to do that final one - am thinking at the moment about edging the window cutouts with microstrip and cutting glazing to fit.
Also, i need to add some rivets and detailing, like an access panel in the nose side etc.
i would very much welcome comments on this project - i didnt really start till just before christmas, so am pleased with progress to date.
I am struggling with which radio control gear to go with.
I am quite taken with the Deltang kit and he now has an ESC which will handle 3 amp which is what i need, but have also seen the Viper unit and associated tx and rx.
Any advice on this would be useful!
Hopefully will post more progress over next few days.....
So step one - i built up a Roundhouse Criccieth Castle chassis, as per instructions. All went well, only prob was that Roundhouse supplied the wrong crankpins, but i their customer service was exemplary and the correct pins were with me within a couple of days of emailing them:
No power yet, so chassis is just in push-along mode.
Several sheets of thick plastikard later, and i can now put together a footplate and battery holder:
Being new to this, I am finding my way on power and control. I have built the body to accommodate 8 x AA cells, which should give 9,6v. I am hoping this will run the engine and any comments woulkd be gratefully received!
My next job was to build the bonnet, cab and rear fuel tank as separate units. Also seen here is a tool box also made. I have fitted doors to bonnet side from 10 thou plasticard and they are ready to take the little fastening handles. The cab doors are separate pieces, and have little hinges etc.
Now we can put the whole lot together and get a feel of what it might look like:
What has taken most of my time is the little details. This morning i made windscreen wipers, door handles, silencer, handles for the nose panels and drilled out handrail knobs:
so thats where we have got to so far.
Stil to do, is the cab roof, exhaust, and window glazing. Not sure yet how to do that final one - am thinking at the moment about edging the window cutouts with microstrip and cutting glazing to fit.
Also, i need to add some rivets and detailing, like an access panel in the nose side etc.
i would very much welcome comments on this project - i didnt really start till just before christmas, so am pleased with progress to date.
I am struggling with which radio control gear to go with.
I am quite taken with the Deltang kit and he now has an ESC which will handle 3 amp which is what i need, but have also seen the Viper unit and associated tx and rx.
Any advice on this would be useful!
Hopefully will post more progress over next few days.....
Good spot. yes, this image was the inspiration:williamfj:94705 wrote:It looks very good, is it based on an Andrew Barclay? In my electric locos I've used viper ESCs and haven' had any trouble with them yet.
http://www.geolocation.ws/v/W/File:Midl ... 3.jpg/-/en
- Peter Butler
- Driver
- Posts: 5254
- Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:33 pm
- Location: West Wales
Brian, thanks you. As you can see, my model is a very loose interpretation - not the least of which is the number of wheels and the gauge!MDLR:94714 wrote:If you need more pictures of that beastie, I live less than a mile away!
However, if you (or anyone else) had any pictures to help layout the cab interior, that would be useful. At the moment i am inventing a cab interior with a number of dials, levers and gauges that feel right rather than being realistic!
I do very much like plasticard and have used it for years - but previously in OO. The much heavier thicknesses i have been using here have been a surprise to me, but have made a really robust body.Peter Butler:94718 wrote:That looks like a cracking job and it is nice to see someone else working in plasticard. It is such a versatile material and will make up into any shape you can imagine.
Looking forward to more pics.....
The ultimate that can be done in plasticard can be seen on RMWeb - the Manchester Central roof - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... -viaducts/
- MDLR
- Driver
- Posts: 4027
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- Location: Near Ripley, Derbyshire, UK
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I've just spent half-an-hour I couldn't spare looking at this - absolutely STUNNING!ikcdab:94736 wrote:The ultimate that can be done in plasticard can be seen on RMWeb - the Manchester Central roof - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... -viaducts/
- Dannypenguin
- Trainee Driver
- Posts: 632
- Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:57 am
- Location: Forest of Dean, UK
- Contact:
Love the diesel, always been tempted to buy a Cric chassis and build on up but I kinda struggled with some basic flat wagons so...
Dan
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
Visit the PFLR website - http://poultonfarmlightrailway.webs.com/
Dean Forest Railway Society website - http://dfrsociety.org/
- Johnnie2sheds
- Trainee Fireman
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Mon May 16, 2011 2:11 pm
- Location: The Midlands
its been a frustrating day. Last evening i tried to shape the plasticard roof. After previous bending sessions involving the oven, i tried boiling weater. This was still too fierce, so today saw me bending the roof gently over a warm radiator....see below. Here you see a wooden former with the roof clamped into position.
Having made the roof from two layers glued together whilst curved, it is holding its shape a bit better, but i still think is going to need some internal bracing.
But the most frustrating thing was making two small items - the exhaust silencer and brake standard. Both should have been easy. The brake standard merely drilling a 1.5mm hole crosswise through a brass rod - and 5 broken drill bits later it is finally done. (pic to follow). The silencer again should have been easy, but trying to find something to close off the end of the cylinder and then (again) drilling a hole through it to take the exhaust pipe took the patience of Job. Still now both are done and ready to go.
Ill post some pics either later today or tomorrow.
Thanks for the encouraging comments - it keeps me going.
Having made the roof from two layers glued together whilst curved, it is holding its shape a bit better, but i still think is going to need some internal bracing.
But the most frustrating thing was making two small items - the exhaust silencer and brake standard. Both should have been easy. The brake standard merely drilling a 1.5mm hole crosswise through a brass rod - and 5 broken drill bits later it is finally done. (pic to follow). The silencer again should have been easy, but trying to find something to close off the end of the cylinder and then (again) drilling a hole through it to take the exhaust pipe took the patience of Job. Still now both are done and ready to go.
Ill post some pics either later today or tomorrow.
Thanks for the encouraging comments - it keeps me going.
Jeepers, I bet there was some blue language in your workshop, but It's happened to us all, brass is not an easy metal to drill5 broken drill bits later
Mike
Wood Valley Works
http://www.woodvalleyworks.co.uk
Wood Valley Light Railway
http://www.wvlr.co.uk
Wood Valley Works
http://www.woodvalleyworks.co.uk
Wood Valley Light Railway
http://www.wvlr.co.uk
Don't give up Danny, the more you build the more you learn. You will also find your biggest critic is Danny penguin. This build here is clever so be inspired and have aDannypenguin:94742 wrote:Love the diesel, always been tempted to buy a Cric chassis and build on up but I kinda struggled with some basic flat wagons so... :roll:
go. You could also start with a cheaper chassis (Essel?). Plasticard is quite cheap and very forgiving to work with.
PS I love this loco shape.
Bazzer42
I would completely agree with this. Working in plastikard is no more difficult than cardboard. The only tools i use are a steel straightedge, a knife with snap off blades, a small set square, cutting mat, fine grade glass paper, some small drills and a pin chuck and a set of cheap needle files.bazzer42:94794 wrote:Don't give up Danny, the more you build the more you learn. You will also find your biggest critic is Danny penguin. This build here is clever so be inspired and have aDannypenguin:94742 wrote:Love the diesel, always been tempted to buy a Cric chassis and build on up but I kinda struggled with some basic flat wagons so... :roll:
go. You could also start with a cheaper chassis (Essel?). Plasticard is quite cheap and very forgiving to work with.
PS I love this loco shape.
i worked out a rough plan before i began, but after that its very much been make it up as i went along, using pictures from the net for inspiration.
- tom_tom_go
- Driver
- Posts: 4824
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:08 am
- Location: Kent, UK
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Mostly 80 thou (about 2mm) with 60 and 40 where necessary. Where extra strength is needed, then I have doubled up where its not visible. The inside corners of the bonnet are reinforced so that I can then round them off to give nice curved edges.tom_tom_go:94814 wrote:I am a bit of real world materials snob when it comes to our garden railways, however, you are certainly proving Plastikard can look the part!
I know nothing about this stuff so what thickness/type are you using and where to buy?
As for buying the stuff, Eileen's, slaters themselves or local model shop.
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