Buildings

[steamyjim]

Now I have some track down - I need to start putting some buildings on the line. This is something I have no idea about what so ever!

I am going for a largely industrial feel to the line - being based some time around 1920, but in an area when time has effectively stood still and machinery from the early industrial period is still in use (Newcomen engines and such like).

For this I need to reproduce stonework. I am not aiming for an extremely high level of detail as I don't want to spend huge amounts of time on each building - but I don't want plain walls either! I am more interested in building working models to go in the buildings.

I will be starting with the indoor section of the line, so the building techniques need not be completely weather proof - just protected against the muck from steam locomotives.

Any help and advice would be much appreciated!

[steamyjim]

Anyone had any experience with the 'Jackson Miniatures' plastic textured pattern sheets?

http://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/railway.html

[Vapouriser]

Modeltown.sorry cant send a link.

[bazzer42]

Anyone had any experience with the 'Jackson Miniatures' plastic textured pattern sheets?

httpu://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/railway.html

I have used ghe brick, slates and corrugated. The brick I have used on soffit board stuck with plumbing solvent pipe glue. Joints hold and you get a complimentary high using the solvent. I have painted red oxide car spray and then painted on a grey exterior house paint (black and white self mix) wiped off with a damp cloth to give the mortar. Looks good and lasts well. The tiles were sprayed with a can of plasticote grey and whether it's the spray or the sheet the elements gradually remove the paint. The corrugated is very modern to my eyes and suited my needs but rather brittle outside. Indoors shouldn't be a problem and this sheet would help make good industrial buildings.
I have now moved to scoring plastic 5mm foamboard to do bricks and timber cladding. Time consuming but rewarding. Scoring stonework isn't easy but ray dunakin (worth a google) on gscalecentral is VERY clever at this technique.
I have tried a couple of modeltown buildings and they paint well. I think their warehouse low relief set will look the business on my little harbour.

[laalratty]

It all depends on course where your line will be set, different areas has different methods of construction, and your buildings should ideally have the same sort of "theme". I think a search of the manufacturers products would be a good start, such as Modeltown, Cain Howley, Pendle Valley etc. And if you do have an idea for where your line is set perhaps a google image search to see the sort of buildings in that area.

[Keith S]

Some day in the future, I intend to get a small building from "Treddol designs". How I covet a little slate station or signal box from them. I'd probably have to sell a kidney though.

[jim@NAL]

get peter jones book building model buildings for garden railways its good and has lots off good idears in it to make buildings .look in the projects part on the forum and find project pint .I made a pub it was very easy to make and looked very good

[Peter Butler]

A lot depends on your ability to use materials to create the buildings you like, remember that time spent on their build will be enjoyed for years, so it pays to be patient and practise with a variety of methods.
Yesterday, at the Warley show NEC, I bought something I have never seen before but the results are amazing.  It is a plastic stencil sheet with a powder mix to create a number of stone or brick effects.  It is a simple and reusable system so once purchased you can use it again and again.
First you need to build your structure, (anything you want) and then cover it with the mix using the stencil to create the stonework.   Not suitable for outdoor use but for your indoor section, or for placing on site and put away afterwards, it should work well.
www.craft-products.com  
Click on.... Dolls house exterior finishes....... Brick and stone finishes.
Not expensive for what you get.
I can't wait to give mine a try and will post results.

[steamyjim]

Anyone had any experience with the 'Jackson Miniatures' plastic textured pattern sheets?

httpu://www.jacksonsminiatures.com/railway.html

I have used ghe brick, slates and corrugated.  The brick I have used on soffit board stuck with plumbing solvent pipe glue.  Joints hold and you get a complimentary high using the solvent.  I have painted red oxide car spray and then painted on a grey exterior house paint (black and white self mix) wiped off with a damp cloth to give the mortar.  Looks good and lasts well.  The tiles were sprayed with a can of plasticote grey and whether it's the spray or the sheet the elements gradually remove the paint. The corrugated is very modern to my eyes and suited my needs but rather brittle outside.  Indoors shouldn't be a problem and this sheet would help make good industrial buildings.
I have now moved to scoring plastic 5mm foamboard to do bricks and timber cladding. Time consuming but rewarding.  Scoring stonework isn't easy but ray dunakin (worth a google) on gscalecentral is VERY clever at this technique.
I have tried a couple of modeltown buildings and they paint well.  I think their warehouse low relief set will look the business on my little harbour.

Thank you for the advice! I will look into that method. Over the Christmas holidays I will get the card and the hot glue gun out and mock up some buildings! The price for the Jackson miniature sheets doesn't seem to expensive either...

[steamyjim]

It all depends on course where your line will be set, different areas has different methods of construction, and your buildings should ideally have the same sort of "theme". I think a search of the manufacturers products would be a good start, such as Modeltown, Cain Howley, Pendle Valley etc. And if you do have an idea for where your line is set perhaps a google image search to see the sort of buildings in that area.

I am going for an early industrial theme using rough cut grey stone to many of the buildings - sort of like this blast furnace here...



I want to have this sort of building inter spaced with more modern (1880-1910) era buildings that are directly railway related but still made from the same stone. The Pendle Valley buildings seem to be of the style I am looking for.

[steamyjim]

get peter jones book building model buildings for garden railways its good and has lots off good idears in it to make buildings .look in the projects part on the forum and find project pint .I made a pub it was very easy to make and looked very good

That looks to be just the style I am looking for! I will order Peter Jones' book!

[steamyjim]

A lot depends on your ability to use materials to create the buildings you like, remember that time spent on their build will be enjoyed for years, so it pays to be patient and practise with a variety of methods.
Yesterday, at the Warley show NEC, I bought something I have never seen before but the results are amazing.  It is a plastic stencil sheet with a powder mix to create a number of stone or brick effects.  It is a simple and reusable system so once purchased you can use it again and again.
First you need to build your structure, (anything you want) and then cover it with the mix using the stencil to create the stonework.   Not suitable for outdoor use but for your indoor section, or for placing on site and put away afterwards, it should work well.
www.craft-products.com  
Click on....  Dolls house exterior finishes.......  Brick and stone finishes.
Not expensive for what you get.
I can't wait to give mine a try and will post results.

That's an interesting method that I haven't seen before. Do you know what the powder mix is made from? Is it possible to produce your own or must you buy theirs?

[Peter Butler]

I haven't yet opened the pack of powder but is available in several colours and has the appearance of fine (very fine!) cement.
It only needs water to activate and dries in about 1 hour, according to the demonstration at the show.
The plan is to paint the basic structure with emulsion paint in the colour which will become the mortar course and apply the mix through the stencil. Once applied the stencil is lifted leaving the paint showing through.... I've seen it done, and it works!!!