Peaslake & Grayswood Light Railway Construction Diary
found this manufacturer on the web that does dual gauge rail
http://www.svrronline.com/TrackandRail.html
http://www.svrronline.com/TrackandRail.html
The railway construction begins
When the track arrives I have just asked for a quote for a box of track and a pack of joiners from PPS with a few to surveying the line and getting the first bit of track down. I am just about to redraw the plans as it is now going to be a double track main line with the track being in two different gauges.
When the track arrives I have just asked for a quote for a box of track and a pack of joiners from PPS with a few to surveying the line and getting the first bit of track down. I am just about to redraw the plans as it is now going to be a double track main line with the track being in two different gauges.
- bungle80a
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Sounds like a good plan! I shall be following this thread withj interest for ideas whilst continuing on the construction of the Fairfield Railway. Nice to see that my work on the FR has had an influence. Although currently, i'm not sure if we are now going for 2 different gauges or a double 45mm. Got to push my boss in the direction of having 32mm as I have nothing regaugable to 45mm at the moment!
On a side note, have you decided which part of your railway to lay first?
On a side note, have you decided which part of your railway to lay first?
Bungle80a
"Who has stolen the 3 link coupling off the end of my train?!?!
.....[a few minutes pass hunting down replacements].....
"So, which comedian has uncoupled my entire train?!?!"
"Who has stolen the 3 link coupling off the end of my train?!?!
.....[a few minutes pass hunting down replacements].....
"So, which comedian has uncoupled my entire train?!?!"
It will be O Gauge first, just an out and back to what will be the halfway pointbungle80a wrote:Sounds like a good plan! I shall be following this thread withj interest for ideas whilst continuing on the construction of the Fairfield Railway. Nice to see that my work on the FR has had an influence. Although currently, i'm not sure if we are now going for 2 different gauges or a double 45mm. Got to push my boss in the direction of having 32mm as I have nothing regaugable to 45mm at the moment!
On a side note, have you decided which part of your railway to lay first?
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- Retired Director
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- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:00 pm
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- Retired Director
- Posts: 3536
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:00 pm
NO! If you are going to use flexitrack than only use 3 foot radius as an absolute last resort. I have done my upper loop reconstruction because I used a 3 foot radius curve when building it but couldn't get the joints done well. I'd say try to keep to a 4 foot min radius if possible (unless you use the set track which is curved to a constant radius with no kinks)
"What the hell is that?"
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
"It's a model icebreaker sir."
"It's a bit big isn't it?"
"It's a full scale model sir....."
Just a word of advice Si, but I'd put a triangle in from the loop to the branch line, as per your previous plans. As you will know if you're following the thread on MRW I'm planning to (eventually) have the circuit-triangle-branch line formula on my "garden" railway. It allows a rather nice degree of operational freedom - with triangle you can run end to end from station A to station B over two different routes, or trundle from A back to A via B and the balloon loop, or of course leave the puffer trundling round the circuit when you just want to recline on a nice summers day with a cool drink in hand, watching the train go round...
Flexitrack should be fine on 3ft curves as long as you lay it well; as long as the track is secured firmly in place you won't get movement and kinking at the fishplates. Laying sleepers under the joints can help alleviate kinking, but I never had sleepers under joints and had no problems whatsoever with kinking on my 3 (defunct) 32mm gauge railways.
Flexitrack should be fine on 3ft curves as long as you lay it well; as long as the track is secured firmly in place you won't get movement and kinking at the fishplates. Laying sleepers under the joints can help alleviate kinking, but I never had sleepers under joints and had no problems whatsoever with kinking on my 3 (defunct) 32mm gauge railways.
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