Oh, and contact IP again as I have had no reply whatsoever about the mal-machined gland nut
Victor - The ongoing saga...is concluded! (See p.7)
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MTA
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MTA
I think I have figure out how to blank off the old pipe. I suspect I will leave the part of the pipe in the boiler in situ, cutting it off about 3-5 mm outside of the boiler. I will get some dimensions and turn up a brass blanking plug at college if I can find the time
I suspect many have done it before, but the steam pipe will run through the flames from the wick for superheating purposes. Although this may block the hottest part of the flame from the boiler
I will order a Roundhouse lubricator soon, as well as a flamethrow.. I mean blowtorch along with some silver solder and fit it in the cab
I suspect many have done it before, but the steam pipe will run through the flames from the wick for superheating purposes. Although this may block the hottest part of the flame from the boiler
I will order a Roundhouse lubricator soon, as well as a flamethrow.. I mean blowtorch along with some silver solder and fit it in the cab
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MTA
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MTA
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ACLR
Hi all sorry just got back from our long weekend off. we went to jills parents palce for the weekend.
Si some locos mamod and mss the original steam pipe is soldered in and in others its held in place with a spring and o ring.
in the IP kit it comes with the little plug that seals where the steam pipe is removed. if the steam pipe is soldered you could try heating it up with your blow torch and remove it or just crimp the end over and solder the end thats under the dome, then cut the excess off under the boiler.
the roundhouse lube comes with a small thread that is soldered to the new steam pipe so that the nut on the lube scan srew to it.
after you have fitted the T piece to the boiler and reasebled the loco as per the instructions i posted screw on the regulator. do not tighten up at this point.
carefully bend the pipes on the lube so that it fits in the cab

the picture should give you an idea how.
next fit the new steam pipe under the boiler taking care when bending the pipe

you will have to cut nut off the end of the pipe so cut the pipe near the bend so it fits onto the lube pipe. the solder the thread on.
bolt it all together and nip it up enough to make steam tight and thats it.
hope this helps
Si some locos mamod and mss the original steam pipe is soldered in and in others its held in place with a spring and o ring.
in the IP kit it comes with the little plug that seals where the steam pipe is removed. if the steam pipe is soldered you could try heating it up with your blow torch and remove it or just crimp the end over and solder the end thats under the dome, then cut the excess off under the boiler.
the roundhouse lube comes with a small thread that is soldered to the new steam pipe so that the nut on the lube scan srew to it.
after you have fitted the T piece to the boiler and reasebled the loco as per the instructions i posted screw on the regulator. do not tighten up at this point.
carefully bend the pipes on the lube so that it fits in the cab

the picture should give you an idea how.
next fit the new steam pipe under the boiler taking care when bending the pipe

you will have to cut nut off the end of the pipe so cut the pipe near the bend so it fits onto the lube pipe. the solder the thread on.
bolt it all together and nip it up enough to make steam tight and thats it.
hope this helps
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MTA
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SillyBilly
You're better off phoning them, Mr Prior always states that he prefers talking to customers via the medium of a phone call. I would recommend I.P everytime for the best value kits.MTA wrote:Going to contact IP again as I have had nothing back from them, needless to say I probably won't be using them again![]()
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MTA
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ACLR
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MTA
The tanks have now had their priming completed, and left to dry overnight.
Then the new colour will be applied tomorrow
The couplers have also finished being primed, and I am wonderiing whether to paint them in a metallic paint like cast iron or paint them black...
Just a few minutes ago I also tested the burner, the wick supplied with it burns well but I think I may get some from MF Steam as I suspect it will be much better.
Then the new colour will be applied tomorrow
The couplers have also finished being primed, and I am wonderiing whether to paint them in a metallic paint like cast iron or paint them black...
Just a few minutes ago I also tested the burner, the wick supplied with it burns well but I think I may get some from MF Steam as I suspect it will be much better.
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