Falk No.1 Valve Timing

[David P]

Given the replies to my earlier post on the Bowande Falk No.1 this query is probably a really long shot.

I'm wondering if anyone has set the valve timing on this little loco as I believe the eccentrics have slipped and have put the timing out as it now only runs in reverse regardless of where the reverser (Johnston bar) is set.

Any one with previous experience that can provide suggestions would be appreciated before I go down the rabbit hole of working out how to set the timing.

I note on this Youtube clip of the Falk the owner finds it runs best with what we would call the gear "notched up" on a real locomotive rather than locked into the notches on the reversing quadrant:

[CharlesMac]

David,
Try this article, it may provide some guidance. I have used it to air tune a Ruby with good success.
I checked and the article did come up with the search entered.

http://www.santacruzlumberco.com/MLS_PD ... gARuby.pdf

Charles M

[David P]

Many thanks Charles,

I've just logged in and discovered this comprehensive article - will tackle the Falk after I finish a couple of other projects (including sorting out an issue with my 4WD)!

[David P]

Hi all,

After much work I've sorted the valve timing on my Bowande Falk No.1 which has conventional slide valves, unlike the valves in the PDF for the Ruby.

This involved removing most components of the winch in front of the smoke-box so a socket driver could be used to remove the valve covers.

Turned out a number of factors had caused the problem where it would run well in reverse but not at all in forward gear.

1 - the lever for lifting the die blocks in the links when put into forward gear was not secure on the shaft (held by a near inaccessible grub screw under the cab and a form of Loctite) was not putting the die blocks in the correct position in the links for forward gear.

2 - the left hand rocker that transfers the motion from the inside valve gear to the the valve rod was not in quite the correct position.

3 - the left hand valve block was not giving equal travel and port openings in forward gear.

I could get it to run well in both directions on the right hand cylinder but only in reverse on the left until I reset the position of the left hand valve on the valve rod to give correct port openings at both ends of travel - once this was done I could set the timing correctly for both forward and reverse and it would run on that cylinder alone.

The hardest part of the (frustrating) job was getting the grub screw loose in the valve shuttle block without destroying anything. Gordon Watson suggested using a large soldering iron for 30 seconds to break down any Loctite type compound but this didn't work.

In the end I used a small gas torch to heat it, a pin punch to shock the screw, the torch again and an Allen key with a fresh end and it came loose.

Once all set it now runs well on the rolling road - will see how it runs at the club track tomorrow.

The next step if all is well is to install RC to tame the little rocket.

NB: there is quite a lot of slop in the motion so all valve timing naturally has to be done rotating the wheels in the correct direction when setting the relevant eccentrics - and the screws on the cross shaft all face up underneath the cab so a final fix if this occurs again may require removing the cab and footplate for access!