Print nozzle driving into the print bed

[GAP]

Nothing wrong with the Jyers firmware. I use a similar build, just customised a little to better suit my hybrid machine.

25 probe points take about 75 seconds to probe, and then the machine starts automatically. Yes, more points means a better map, and certainly its reduced recalibration of the bed to pretty much an annual task. Silicone bed supports in place of the springs certainly helps with that one.

I have just ordered these silicone bed supports.
https://www.amazon.com.au/LEOWAY-Silico ... 334&sr=8-6

[GAP]

I finally got my Ender3V2 to a working state when this afternoon the X axis belt snapped, not sure if it was damaged when the probe bracket was bent but I suspect so.
I have had all sorts of problem with stringing and poor printing, hence the dry box project and I had just finished them when while I was looking up for more filament I stumbled across a review of the filament I am using.
In a nutshell it was trashed severely, reports of stringing, poor bed adhesion and inability to calibrate printers evidently the manufacture's quality control is a bit hit and miss, so I have new lead on a better supplier.

[philipy]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

[-steves-]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

Also been using eSun PLA + for the last few years, never have an issue with it and now many reels down the line it's my go to PLA.

[GAP]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

eSun PLA+ is definitely available down here, the stuff I have at the moment is "Tecor" brand PLA+ made by Sunlu and their quality control has been questioned in a number of reviews I have read and all the reported issues were what I have happening with my ender3 v2, funnily enough the Ender3 V3 is OK with it. If it keeps going OK, I'll use up that old stuff in the V3 and get eSun for the V2.

[GAP]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

eSun PLA+ is definitely available down here, the stuff I have at the moment is "Tecor" brand PLA+ made by Sunlu and their quality control has been questioned in a number of reviews I have read and all the reported issues were what I have happening with my ender3 v2, funnily enough the Ender3 V3 is OK with it. If it keeps going OK, I'll use up that old stuff in the V3 and get eSun for the V2.

I finally got my Creality Ender3 V2 working as it was, after replacing the drive belt, the nozzle, silicone nozzle cover and replaced the levelling springs with silicone block and followed the bed levelling instructions I have.
I then set about exhausting my stock of Tecor PLA+ and switched to eSun filament (bought2 rolls one for each my Creality Ender3's V2 & V3 and it has turned out to be a disaster I cannot get it to stick to the print beds and it forms blobs along the print lines.
I was doing a production run of hopper bodies for my coal hopper wagon using the Tecor which worked fine, nothing I have tried (increase hot end & bedplate temp, using a brim for better adhesion, cleaning the beds with IPA) will get the eSun to work.
I have printed 5 of the 10 hopper bodies required with the Tecor without an issue on both printers so I will revert back and use the eSun another day.
Maybe the 30+C temps and high humidity is to blame but it shouldn't because both are new out of the box and used immediately.
Any ideas gratefully appreciated.

[-steves-]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

eSun PLA+ is definitely available down here, the stuff I have at the moment is "Tecor" brand PLA+ made by Sunlu and their quality control has been questioned in a number of reviews I have read and all the reported issues were what I have happening with my ender3 v2, funnily enough the Ender3 V3 is OK with it. If it keeps going OK, I'll use up that old stuff in the V3 and get eSun for the V2.

I finally got my Creality Ender3 V2 working as it was, after replacing the drive belt, the nozzle, silicone nozzle cover and replaced the levelling springs with silicone block and followed the bed levelling instructions I have.
I then set about exhausting my stock of Tecor PLA+ and switched to eSun filament (bought2 rolls one for each my Creality Ender3's V2 & V3 and it has turned out to be a disaster I cannot get it to stick to the print beds and it forms blobs along the print lines.
I was doing a production run of hopper bodies for my coal hopper wagon using the Tecor which worked fine, nothing I have tried (increase hot end & bedplate temp, using a brim for better adhesion, cleaning the beds with IPA) will get the eSun to work.
I have printed 5 of the 10 hopper bodies required with the Tecor without an issue on both printers so I will revert back and use the eSun another day.
Maybe the 30+C temps and high humidity is to blame but it shouldn't because both are new out of the box and used immediately.
Any ideas gratefully appreciated.

Using IPA is a great way to clean a bed, however it does make it so clean it's difficult to get adhesion afterwards. I would suggest a light film of hairspray to help matters. There are more issues it might be, but for now go with this, but also double check both fans are working for the hot end and the part cooler. Another thing, what temps are you using as all filaments differ?

[GAP]

so I have new lead on a better supplier.

I've been using " eSun PLA+ " for the last few months and have no problems at all with that. Currently on my 5th reel in 4 different colours. I get it from Amazon here but I'm sure it must be available in Oz.

eSun PLA+ is definitely available down here, the stuff I have at the moment is "Tecor" brand PLA+ made by Sunlu and their quality control has been questioned in a number of reviews I have read and all the reported issues were what I have happening with my ender3 v2, funnily enough the Ender3 V3 is OK with it. If it keeps going OK, I'll use up that old stuff in the V3 and get eSun for the V2.

I finally got my Creality Ender3 V2 working as it was, after replacing the drive belt, the nozzle, silicone nozzle cover and replaced the levelling springs with silicone block and followed the bed levelling instructions I have.
I then set about exhausting my stock of Tecor PLA+ and switched to eSun filament (bought2 rolls one for each my Creality Ender3's V2 & V3 and it has turned out to be a disaster I cannot get it to stick to the print beds and it forms blobs along the print lines.
I was doing a production run of hopper bodies for my coal hopper wagon using the Tecor which worked fine, nothing I have tried (increase hot end & bedplate temp, using a brim for better adhesion, cleaning the beds with IPA) will get the eSun to work.
I have printed 5 of the 10 hopper bodies required with the Tecor without an issue on both printers so I will revert back and use the eSun another day.
Maybe the 30+C temps and high humidity is to blame but it shouldn't because both are new out of the box and used immediately.
Any ideas gratefully appreciated.

Using IPA is a great way to clean a bed, however it does make it so clean it's difficult to get adhesion afterwards. I would suggest a light film of hairspray to help matters. There are more issues it might be, but for now go with this, but also double check both fans are working for the hot end and the part cooler. Another thing, what temps are you using as all filaments differ?

210C hot end with 60C bed same as the other PLA+ the only thing that changed was the filament.

[philipy]

210C hot end with 60C bed same as the other PLA+ the only thing that changed was the filament.

Thats what I use.

[-steves-]

I use 195 / 50 on one printer and 200 / 55 on the other, same filament as you guys. I did a heat test build and was very surprised what was actually came back as best. I would suggest doing one of these with all new filament brands.

Do you use Octoprint? If so check that the hot end line isn't wobbly and is a constant flat line. If wobbly this indicates either the heater element is failing, the thermistor is failing or the hot end fan is failing. I personally have had all 3 go a number of times and all cause blobby partial prints.

The thing to watch for when using hotter temps and when a hot end fan is failing, is that the filament gets too hot too far up the Bowden cable and causes a blockage, I have had this many many times in the past and often find it very difficult to remove the filament from the cable.

Just a few things to watch for.

[GAP]

I use 195 / 50 on one printer and 200 / 55 on the other, same filament as you guys. I did a heat test build and was very surprised what was actually came back as best. I would suggest doing one of these with all new filament brands.

Do you use Octoprint? If so check that the hot end line isn't wobbly and is a constant flat line. If wobbly this indicates either the heater element is failing, the thermistor is failing or the hot end fan is failing. I personally have had all 3 go a number of times and all cause blobby partial prints.

The thing to watch for when using hotter temps and when a hot end fan is failing, is that the filament gets too hot too far up the Bowden cable and causes a blockage, I have had this many many times in the past and often find it very difficult to remove the filament from the cable.

Just a few things to watch for.

Update
I reverted back to the Tecor filament and it worked fine, I have a hopper body print that is 80% complete according to Octoprint with no issues.
The temp line on Octoprint is a straight as a die.
To get enough filament I resorted to joining 2 part rolls together.
The method I used was to put each end into a short piece of PTFE tube (bowden) and heat it with a hair straightener, then sanded doen the join area till it smoothly ran through the tube.
I experimented with another method which involved putting the 2 ends in to heatshrink and using the straightener and the produce a join that requires less sanding as the heatshrink is hard against the filament whereas the PTFE tube has an inside diameter of 2mm and a larger amount of sanding is required.
The eSun temp recommendation on the reel are; print 210-230C, bed 40-60C with fan at 100% so I may try a cooler bed to see if that works.

[GAP]

New rolls of Tecor arrived yesterday and I started the production run of my coal hopper bodies.
After saying that it was better than the eSun filament I was served up a big slice of humble pie.
I could not get good bed adhesion at all;
I tried using hairspray for the first time and that improved things markedly but the nozzle was still catching the initial layer and them just blobbing the filament around itself.
Next I performed an auto bed level on the printer and again more improvement but still no solution.
After a quick google search I found an article that said that PLA and PLA+ really do not need heated beds but temps of around 50C are recommended by manufacturers.
It went on to say that the additives in PLA+ sometimes require lower temps and these can vary between batches because the additives vary due to poor quality control in Chinese factories (evidently the filaments can be made in different factories hence the variations)..
So I lowered the initial layer temp and voila!!! perfect adhesion.
All this took about 2 hours to get right so now I will pull my head in and give the eSun a go again.

[philipy]

Fingers crossed for you

[GAP]

Fingers crossed for you

Seems to be working 2nd one of the run humming away nicely.

[-steves-]

After a quick google search I found an article that said that PLA and PLA+ really do not need heated beds but temps of around 50C are recommended by manufacturers.
It went on to say that the additives in PLA+ sometimes require lower temps and these can vary between batches because the additives vary due to poor quality control in Chinese factories (evidently the filaments can be made in different factories hence the variations)..
So I lowered the initial layer temp and voila!!! perfect adhesion.
All this took about 2 hours to get right so now I will pull my head in and give the eSun a go again.

I did say a temp tower would help, the best isn't always what they say on the tin.

There is a good article here https://all3dp.com/2/temp-tower-cura-tutorial/

If you use Cura 5.x then temp towers are built in. Go to Extensions, Auto Towers and select the one you want. Even for those who have things well dialled in, it's a good thing to do, just as a check.