3 D Printing 16mm models
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Very good - a horse and carriage train!
I do like the dandy wagon with the horse in it. I decided I could justify printing one when you revealed they had been converted for coal. But I'm tempted to print a horse, and make the coal load removable, so that even though I have no incline for gravity trains I can sometimes take the horse for a ride...
The final finish on the carriage is superb. And even though this whole topic is about printing it really is quite amazing that there can't be much in that train that isn't printed - just the axles?
I do like the dandy wagon with the horse in it. I decided I could justify printing one when you revealed they had been converted for coal. But I'm tempted to print a horse, and make the coal load removable, so that even though I have no incline for gravity trains I can sometimes take the horse for a ride...
The final finish on the carriage is superb. And even though this whole topic is about printing it really is quite amazing that there can't be much in that train that isn't printed - just the axles?
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Well done, those are wonderful!
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Just axles, wire to pivot the coupling hook and bolts for pivoting the couplings. Otherwise totally printed.
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Looks like it has been worth all that effort in getting the technique right. I wonder if it's possible to get passable results on a FDM printer.
Rik
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That is a really superb piece of work Trevor. All 3d printed except for what you have mentioned, makes it so worthwhile the investment in a 3d printer.
Are they now all printable in the files thread. I really fancy doing a carriage or something similar.
Are they now all printable in the files thread. I really fancy doing a carriage or something similar.
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
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https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Rod
I am sorry the files for the more complex models that I have designed will not be made available.
However I will be making up kits for the horse drawn carriages, and the other models I have spent weeks designing, and I will make those available in the for sale section in the near future.
Trevor
I am sorry the files for the more complex models that I have designed will not be made available.
However I will be making up kits for the horse drawn carriages, and the other models I have spent weeks designing, and I will make those available in the for sale section in the near future.
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Rick
It is possible. Look back at the photos of the driver in 4415 and the wren. They were created on the filament printer. Not perfect but hardly an issue when they are inside the cab, and it is difficult to see the defects.
The resin printer is interesting. it isn't so much a problem printing ordinary designs from tinkered or sketchup - or even thingiverse. However trying to do it via makehuman etc is another thing!
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
A final photo of the goods shed prior to painting:
The roof slates are actually to scale. However the thickness isn't making the steps in the roof very obvious. It is a case where making something oversize is necessary to make it look right. So if I make a roof like this again I will overemphasise the thickness of the slates.
Trevor
The roof slates are actually to scale. However the thickness isn't making the steps in the roof very obvious. It is a case where making something oversize is necessary to make it look right. So if I make a roof like this again I will overemphasise the thickness of the slates.
Trevor
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
That looks incredible, my hat off to you sir ![:salute: :salute:](./images/smilies/icon_salut.gif)
![:salute: :salute:](./images/smilies/icon_salut.gif)
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
The thickness may become more obvious once you've painted and weathered the roof and paint has settled into the joints.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 8:55 pm
The roof slates are actually to scale. However the thickness isn't making the steps in the roof very obvious. It is a case where making something oversize is necessary to make it look right. So if I make a roof like this again I will overemphasise the thickness of the slates.
Philip
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Very nice build indeed. ![:thumbright: :thumbright:](./images/smilies/icon_thumleft.gif)
![:thumbright: :thumbright:](./images/smilies/icon_thumleft.gif)
ROD
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
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https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Life is so easy when I run my trains.
![:thumbright: :thumbright:](./images/smilies/icon_thumleft.gif)
https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11364
https://www.youtube.com/@fairywoodlightrailway
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
Lovely piece of modelling, Trevor. As Philips says, some weathering (accidental or deliberate) might emphasise the divisions between the slates.
Rik
Rik
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have been running 4415 on my 1 in 60 main line. With a reasonably heavy rake of slate wagons I am getting much wheel slipping.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:37 am An update on finishing off 4415
And now 4415. I have added the lettering and the makers plate. The lettering is hand painted - and I have done better, but it will suffice. The surface finish on some of the panels is not perfect, and I may yet go back and try different print settings. I suspect more solid layers on the outer surfaces may improve the surface finish. Anyway as a project it is finished and it works:
IMG_0833.jpg
IMG_0836.jpg
Trevor
So I am adding weights (low down) and in a way which avoids opening up the body - and risking damage to the paintwork.
I have made a dozen holders to take 10mm diameter lengths of brass rod, on the printer, and parted off 4 off 70mm, and 2 off 80mm lengths.
Here are two of the rods and their holders, plus one weight ready to fit.
I have bonded the 70mm lengths under the footplate on the outside edges, and the 80mm lengths across the ends.
Having just come in from testing it I can confirm that the slipping is now gone (with the same rake as before).
Just got to do something similar to Welsh Pony!
Trevor
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
A really neat and clever way of adding weight ![👍](//cdn.jsdelivr.net/gh/twitter/twemoji@latest/assets/svg/1f44d.svg)
Rik
Rik
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
This has been a bit of an epic, but well worth ploughing through..
Thank you Trevor for your tenacity.
A few questions:
Have I got it correct?
If you were to print (fdm) a 2mm thick flat object ; it would print as a bottom 'skin', edges, some sort of support matrix, and a top skin/surface?
Can you get flat sheets (like plastucard) of the materials that fdm printers use?
Would it be possible, to print onto a flat sheet of the same material (if it is available)? - I am wondering if it would be possible to print detail onto a manufactured flat surface?
And finally :
Are there threads on the Forum, discussing other 'machines', and what they can do etc?
Thinking ;
Vinyl / silhouette cutters.
Mill / drill /router
Hobby-size laser cutter
DRO - what /how to use. Versus CNC..
A lot to ask, I know, but I feel I could justify some machines, if I had a better idea if they could be made to do what I want.
Phil.P
Thank you Trevor for your tenacity.
A few questions:
Have I got it correct?
If you were to print (fdm) a 2mm thick flat object ; it would print as a bottom 'skin', edges, some sort of support matrix, and a top skin/surface?
Can you get flat sheets (like plastucard) of the materials that fdm printers use?
Would it be possible, to print onto a flat sheet of the same material (if it is available)? - I am wondering if it would be possible to print detail onto a manufactured flat surface?
And finally :
Are there threads on the Forum, discussing other 'machines', and what they can do etc?
Thinking ;
Vinyl / silhouette cutters.
Mill / drill /router
Hobby-size laser cutter
DRO - what /how to use. Versus CNC..
A lot to ask, I know, but I feel I could justify some machines, if I had a better idea if they could be made to do what I want.
Phil.P
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I'll jump in here with some of the answers, and no doubt Trevor will have some additional thoughts.
Yes thats a fair summary. However, the number of layers and skins , not to mention the thickness of those layers and the density of the infill are all variable, so that it can in theory be printed as flimsy or as solid as you want.
There are very many fdm filament materials, including HIPS( Plasticard) and ABS, PetG, Nylon, etc so the answer to that question is a qualified yes. Although personally I use mostly PLA which isn't available in sheet form as far as I know
It would be a bit of a pain to set the printer up to do that because it would effectively shift the Z coordinates. Also I'm not sure why you would want to do that? It would be simpler to just print the complete thickness, or if you are thinking of say, a rivetted wagon strap, simply print the strap and glue it on ( which I've done a number of times)
There has been some mention of laser cutting, and of course lathe work to some extent. Best thing is to use the Search function.
Philip
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I think that depends on the setup of the printer. On my printers, which both have a BLTouch fitted, a sheet could easily be printed on to as the Z axis automatically sets itself up with each print. The only thing you would have to do is ensure good adhesion from the bed to the sheet of "plastic" and make sure the sheet up was to temperature before printing. All a very simple process but I agree with Philip in that in reality I would either print the entire thing or use a sheet of plastic and just add printed detailing to it.philipy wrote: ↑Fri Jul 30, 2021 12:07 pmIt would be a bit of a pain to set the printer up to do that because it would effectively shift the Z coordinates. Also I'm not sure why you would want to do that? It would be simpler to just print the complete thickness, or if you are thinking of say, a rivetted wagon strap, simply print the strap and glue it on ( which I've done a number of times)
The buck stops here .......
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
Ditton Meadow Light Railway (DMLR)
Member of Peterborough and District Association
http://peterborough.16mm.org.uk/
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Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I think many of the answers have already been given - and please forgive me for not replying sooner.
However I do have my own "take" on there things!
You will have realised that I use mainly ABS to print with. I also make large models completely on the printer - even if I have to assemble many individual components. You can look at the station building for my model of Tan-y-bwlch station and Ffestiniog coaches 15 / 16 for examples. I would not make models from sheet material and add detail using a printer. Why? I see no advantage. It means buying sheet material to start with - and that isn't a cheaper way of making the model. As an example of that the station building I am currently roofing. It is under "railway in the valley of the mill". It started out some years ago before I had a printer and I am trying to finish it off to stop it cluttering up my workshop when it should be cluttering up the garden. I have printed sections of tiles and glues them onto the plywood roof. It has used a single reel of filament which cost £10.99 plus postage. I could not have bought enough HIPS sheet for that amount. The difficulty will always be disguising the joints, but when I look at tan - y - bwlch station sitting out in the weather I cant see the joints. On the other hand the engineering works building roofed with strips of slates cut from HIPS will need some attention at the end of the season (it has been outside for about 5 years though).
Of course different machines have different abilities, and I don't just make things from plastic. I would not be without my lathe/mill/drill which can do things which I cant do any other way.
However using the techniques that you have poured through in looking at this thread I am now making models which I think are as good as could be made any other way. The ashbury 4 wheel coaches look superb to me - I can hardly tell that they were printed. There are less flaws than in my hand built Ashbury 4 wheeler. The regular external framework was much easier to line accurately - and it is lined in 2 colours. Much easier to do if the coach side is accurate and regular. I am sold on the concept of printed buildings which seem to cope with sitting outside really well - and my buildings are all scale models of fairly large prototypes.
I am shortly going to start a model of a live steam locomotive where most of the model will be printed. Just boiler, steam motor, gas tank and pipes made in the traditional way. It will be interesting to see if it can be made to work!
So finally the 3 D printer has revolutionised my modelling. The key is to be able to drive the CAD software. Then anything is possible. The actual printer make and model is less important.
Hope that helps!
However I do have my own "take" on there things!
You will have realised that I use mainly ABS to print with. I also make large models completely on the printer - even if I have to assemble many individual components. You can look at the station building for my model of Tan-y-bwlch station and Ffestiniog coaches 15 / 16 for examples. I would not make models from sheet material and add detail using a printer. Why? I see no advantage. It means buying sheet material to start with - and that isn't a cheaper way of making the model. As an example of that the station building I am currently roofing. It is under "railway in the valley of the mill". It started out some years ago before I had a printer and I am trying to finish it off to stop it cluttering up my workshop when it should be cluttering up the garden. I have printed sections of tiles and glues them onto the plywood roof. It has used a single reel of filament which cost £10.99 plus postage. I could not have bought enough HIPS sheet for that amount. The difficulty will always be disguising the joints, but when I look at tan - y - bwlch station sitting out in the weather I cant see the joints. On the other hand the engineering works building roofed with strips of slates cut from HIPS will need some attention at the end of the season (it has been outside for about 5 years though).
Of course different machines have different abilities, and I don't just make things from plastic. I would not be without my lathe/mill/drill which can do things which I cant do any other way.
However using the techniques that you have poured through in looking at this thread I am now making models which I think are as good as could be made any other way. The ashbury 4 wheel coaches look superb to me - I can hardly tell that they were printed. There are less flaws than in my hand built Ashbury 4 wheeler. The regular external framework was much easier to line accurately - and it is lined in 2 colours. Much easier to do if the coach side is accurate and regular. I am sold on the concept of printed buildings which seem to cope with sitting outside really well - and my buildings are all scale models of fairly large prototypes.
I am shortly going to start a model of a live steam locomotive where most of the model will be printed. Just boiler, steam motor, gas tank and pipes made in the traditional way. It will be interesting to see if it can be made to work!
So finally the 3 D printer has revolutionised my modelling. The key is to be able to drive the CAD software. Then anything is possible. The actual printer make and model is less important.
Hope that helps!
Re: 3 D Printing 16mm models
I have to agree with Trevor on this point. I made sure I could do things with Sketchup before buying a printer.Trevor Thompson wrote: ↑Mon Aug 02, 2021 1:51 pm The key is to be able to drive the CAD software. Then anything is possible. The actual printer make and model is less important.
Philip
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