Bone Works

[philipy]

I am impressed by the attention to detail the chap who has made the files has gone into.

I just hope I do it justice when I put it together.

It does look most impressive drawing.

I have absolutely no doubt that you will, Rik.

[Peter Butler]

All that brickwork will look magnificent, well worth the time and effort. Also, the huge window will allow a perfect view of the beam engine at work.

[ge_rik]

Thanks chaps
I've had to send off for more foamboard - as you can see, at present there is no back or floors to the building. This has taken more than I anticipated (3 x A2 sheets so far) and I've not made the engine room chimney or the furnace tower.

Just out of interest - what do you folk generally use for window 'glass'? I've just realised I've run out of clear acrylic sheet and need to order some more. Just wondered what you use and where you get it. I got my last batch from the Llanfair Show but, of course, that won't be running this year.

Rik

[Peter Butler]

Clear acrylic sheet from modeller's suppliers seems to be overpriced so I shop in 'Picture framing suppliers' (or similar) on eBay. You might need to search for the optimum thickness and sheet size but there is a great variety available.

[philipy]

Just out of interest - what do you folk generally use for window 'glass'? I've just realised I've run out of clear acrylic sheet and need to order some more. Just wondered what you use and where you get it. I got my last batch from the Llanfair Show but, of course, that won't be running this year.

I have a collection of thin walled plastic boxes, mostly Ferrero Rocher, which are useful. I've also bought 2mm acrylic sheet from ebay. When I was doing Bench Hall I slightly screwed up on the frame clearance behind the front windows and had to resort to 0.5mm thick material
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thin-Plastic ... 2749.l2649
which despite the title is actually PetG and which was dead easy to cut and glue.

[gregh]

The PLR seems to be a bit like Mary Poppins bag which can hold infinitely much. You seem to be able to conjure another metre of space out of nothing!
Brilliant modelling as usual.
What wagons will haul bones into it?

[philipy]

The PLR seems to be a bit like Mary Poppins bag which can hold infinitely much. You seem to be able to conjure another metre of space out of nothing!

I've often thought along those lines myself!

[Old Man Aaron]

You seem to be able to conjure another metre of space out of nothing!
Brilliant modelling as usual.

Would have to second that sentiment. Very impressive build, already.

This may not be relevant in Britain, where the sun's UV radiation isn't nearly as harsh as here in Oz, but; I've taken to cutting down panes from picture frames bought at op-shops (charity shops) for a couple of dollars. A cheap carbide scribe from evilbay allows me to cut pieces accurately enough to fit Jackson's Miniatures windows, with ease. Glass doesn't fog or craze in the sun, and it holds a realistic shine that plastic soon loses to surface oxidation. The downside of course, is that it adds a fair bit of weight to a foamboard structure.
Just a thought,
Aaron

IMG_6470.JPG (248.86 KiB) Viewed 4350 times

[ge_rik]

What wagons will haul bones into it?

Tarp covered open wagons.

There are some fascinating first hand historical accounts of local residents and snippets from the local newspapers about the real boneworks on the local history website for Tattenhall. Apparently, horse drawn wagons loaded with carcases used to pass through the village from the local railway station to the boneworks and the populace complained about the smell (and presumably also the sight). The carrier's solution was to cover the wagons with tarpaulins, which presumably improved the sight but I'm not sure it would do much to mask the smell. I borrowed the idea of the tarps and applied it to the railway wagons.

Rik

[ge_rik]

This may not be relevant in Britain, where the sun's UV radiation isn't nearly as harsh as here in Oz, but; I've taken to cutting down panes from picture frames bought at op-shops (charity shops) for a couple of dollars. A cheap carbide scribe from evilbay allows me to cut pieces accurately enough to fit Jackson's Miniatures windows, with ease. Glass doesn't fog or craze in the sun, and it holds a realistic shine that plastic soon loses to surface oxidation. The downside of course, is that it adds a fair bit of weight to a foamboard structure.
Just a thought,
Aaron
IMG_6470.JPG

Clever idea, Aaron, thanks.
I've just sent off for some acrylic sheet but will bear your suggestion in mind for the next build.

Rik

[Peter Butler]

I was reluctant to mention the use of glass as it is not the easiest material to cut accurately. Being a picture framer (retired) I have been cutting glass for years and there is a skill involved to get clean edges and precise measurements, certainly not a simple as cutting styrene.
A handy trick to know is to use White Spirit (Turps) on your cutting tool to ensure a good lubrication of the wheel. Also, NEVER go over the same cut twice, this will damage the wheel beyond use.

[ge_rik]

I was reluctant to mention the use of glass as it is not the easiest material to cut accurately. Being a picture framer (retired) I have been cutting glass for years and there is a skill involved to get clean edges and precise measurements, certainly not a simple as cutting styrene.
A handy trick to know is to use White Spirit (Turps) on your cutting tool to ensure a good lubrication of the wheel. Also, NEVER go over the same cut twice, this will damage the wheel beyond use.

That's useful info, thanks Peter.
One of my holiday jobs many (many) years ago was in a builders' merchants. I was taught how to cut large sheets of glass on a flat table. We placed a couple of matches under the scored cut line and applied gentle pressure either side.

I must admit that cutting glass was probably my least favourite job, closely followed by unloading paving slabs by hand from the delivery lorry.

Rik

[ge_rik]

Still working on the roof of the Boneworks but, while waiting for the ridge tiles to print out, I put together the beam engine.

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I haven't bothered too much with the finish as it will be located inside the engine house and so only partially visible. Of course it still needs painting but I wanted to see how it worked with a motor. It's still a bit too fast, so I'm going to investigate slowing it down. I have one of those miniature geared motors so might remodel the motor housing to take it instead of the bog standard 3v motor.

.
Rik

[philipy]

Thats good Rik.
As you say, a bit fast, at that speed it lacks the 'majesty' of the real thing. If you are using a 3v motor, what is it like at 1.5v?

[ge_rik]

Thats good Rik.
As you say, a bit fast, at that speed it lacks the 'majesty' of the real thing. If you are using a 3v motor, what is it like at 1.5v?

Hi Philip
I'm powering the 3v motor from a single 1.2v rechargeable cell ..... so not got much leeway left.

Rik

[Old Man Aaron]

That's useful info, thanks Peter.

Seconded. I'll bet the edges of my cut pieces were a bit painful to look at with experienced eyes.

Rik, that engine's coming up nicely. Must agree regarding the speed. I've seen videos of live steam beam engines running on air at such speed, that one half-expects them to fly apart. Looks very wrong, but I suppose is one way to test the build quality!
Looking forward to seeing your revised drive arrangement.

Regards,
Aaron

[gregh]

stupid question time...
I assume that big round vertical thing is the cylinder. If so how come it has a big hole in the side?

RE the motor speed, if the gearbox idea is too hard, how about an electronic solution? An esc or PWM using a Picaxe.

[ge_rik]

stupid question time...
I assume that big round vertical thing is the cylinder. If so how come it has a big hole in the side?

RE the motor speed, if the gearbox idea is too hard, how about an electronic solution? An esc or PWM using a Picaxe.

Yup, it is the cylinder. The designer of the kit seemed to think it was a good idea to make the cladding removable so people can see the piston going up and down. Not sure why.

I've sent off for a Pwm motor controller for £2.85, which seemed good value.

Rik

[philipy]

stupid question time...
I assume that big round vertical thing is the cylinder. If so how come it has a big hole in the side?

RE the motor speed, if the gearbox idea is too hard, how about an electronic solution? An esc or PWM using a Picaxe.

Rik,
I was just browsing Thingiverse and I noticed this comment on the beam engine, "Just for information, If you have an old Braun electric tooth brush laying around, the motor from it fits perfectly into this Beam Engine." Don't know if that might help?

[ge_rik]

Rik,
I was just browsing Thingiverse and I noticed this comment on the beam engine, "Just for information, If you have an old Braun electric tooth brush laying around, the motor from it fits perfectly into this Beam Engine." Don't know if that might help?

Thanks Philip
I tinkered around with one of those tiny geared motors (I bought three of them a few years ago - just in case). I tried connecting it via a pulley to the end of the crankshaft but struggled to get the tension on the belt right - too tight and the friction on the shaft increased too much, too loose and it slipped.

In the end, I drew and printed a cradle to hold the motor inside the original motor clip. The speed from the motor shaft alone was too slow, so I found a wheel off a cheap plastic toy which gives a far better speed when bearing on the flywheel. I've had to move the position of the motor mount but I'm now much happier with the speed - slow and ponderous. I might increase the speed a little by adding another cell and then use the PWM controller to fine tune it.

I'm just painting the model, so will make a video when it's done.

Rik