Sawmill boiler house
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Water Tower (for the boiler house) more or less complete now (apart from painting and weathering).
Trying to decide, now I've put it together, whether it's a bit too narrow for its height. Might take a couple of cm off the base.
Rik
Trying to decide, now I've put it together, whether it's a bit too narrow for its height. Might take a couple of cm off the base.
Rik
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Re: Sawmill boiler house
Brilliant work.
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Lovely job again, Rik.
I can see what you mean about the proportions, but If you do take a bit off the bottom, is there a danger of getting the window too low and making that look out of proportion instead? ( I'm assuming the door can simply be moved up a bit?).
It might depend on its exact positioning when in situ, if it is positioned so that it can't be seen directly end on, you might get away with it as it is.
Philip
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Maybe if I took a cm off the top and a cm off the bottom?philipy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:40 am I can see what you mean about the proportions, but If you do take a bit off the bottom, is there a danger of getting the window too low and making that look out of proportion instead? ( I'm assuming the door can simply be moved up a bit?).
It might depend on its exact positioning when in situ, if it is positioned so that it can't be seen directly end on, you might get away with it as it is.
Rik
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Last edited by ge_rik on Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Sawmill boiler house
I hadn't realised that trimming the top was still an option, that could be a solution. Could try just sticking temporary black tape round to make a visual break and get the eye to re-judge things?
Philip
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Decided to take 1.6mm (ie four brick courses) off the bottom. I think it looks better. Just trying to decide whether to take another couple of courses off at the top.
I know they say, "measure twice and cut once", but I decided to make the water tower while I was away in France. I had just enough foamboard with me to make it and so pressed on, guessing the dimensions. In an ideal world, I could have made a cereal cardboard mock-up first, but the PLR is a bit like Topsy ..... things get added as the fancy takes me - there is no master-plan.
Rik
I know they say, "measure twice and cut once", but I decided to make the water tower while I was away in France. I had just enough foamboard with me to make it and so pressed on, guessing the dimensions. In an ideal world, I could have made a cereal cardboard mock-up first, but the PLR is a bit like Topsy ..... things get added as the fancy takes me - there is no master-plan.
Rik
- tom_tom_go
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Re: Sawmill boiler house
Rik, if you Google 'Bluebell railway water tower' you will see a newly built one similar to yours. Might help with your dimensions.
Re: Sawmill boiler house
In actual fact, the idea for the water tower came after buying a French model railway magazine while in France (Le Train - Le reseau modele) which featured an 0-16.5mm line (see http://www.gilbert-gribi.com/GGribi/reseau.html ). His model is primarily a logging railway, with sawmill at one end and forest at the other. Beautifully constructed with tons of fine detail.
A mate in Tasmania also sent me some pictures of a sawmill near where he lives. The boiler for its steam engine was from a railway loco (image 22) and the water tank was its tender (image 28). If only I'd seen that before I started work on the boiler house!
http://www.grandchestersawmill.com.au/gallery.html#
Rik
A mate in Tasmania also sent me some pictures of a sawmill near where he lives. The boiler for its steam engine was from a railway loco (image 22) and the water tank was its tender (image 28). If only I'd seen that before I started work on the boiler house!
http://www.grandchestersawmill.com.au/gallery.html#
Rik
Last edited by ge_rik on Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Thanks Tom - yes, very similar. I might even start counting brick courses ......tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:53 am Rik, if you Google 'Bluebell railway water tower' you will see a newly built one similar to yours. Might help with your dimensions.
Rik
Re: Sawmill boiler house
I'd vote yes, FWIW.
Since its for the stationary engine you don't have to worry about loco height for filling and a squatter shape would improve it, I think.
BTW, I love the fire engine on that French site.
Philip
Re: Sawmill boiler house
I'm thinking I might use it as a dual purpose tank - and position it between the main tracks (as per the photo) to also act as a filler for locos.
Yes, some really exquisite modelling on that French layout - most of which is scratchbuilt or kitbashed. Spent a few happy hours with a dictionary and Google Translate reading the text in the magazine. Amazing how many French words have different connotations depending on the context. I was puzzled by one bit that kept mentioning 'boudin' which my little dictionary informed me was a 'black pudding'. Turns out (thanks to Google Translate) that it also means 'flange'. I was also interested to learn that the French call the frog on pointwork the 'heart' of the point.
Rik
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Just caught up with this thread. A masterclass in building with foamboard scribing, can't wait to see them painted.
What thickness do you use Rik? Do you laminate sheets for strength? My engine shed has a slight bow, I used a single 5mm sheet so not sure whether the glued wood is the cause.
What thickness do you use Rik? Do you laminate sheets for strength? My engine shed has a slight bow, I used a single 5mm sheet so not sure whether the glued wood is the cause.
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Hi
I also use 5mm. So far I've not experienced any distortion. The water mill had a first floor which acted as a stiffener. I noticed the walls of the boiler house had a slight bow despite right angled triangular braces in each corner, but this disappeared when I glued on the roof. I use accelerator spray with superglue for some joints like the roof, when I can't get clamps or straps to hold joints in alignment while the glue sets. I'd probably use stiffening braces if I made a larger single storeyed building.
Rik
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Re: Sawmill boiler house
This is an example of the kind of stiffeners I use in my Plasticard structures....
I would never consider using wood as it is sure to place uneven stresses in changing conditions and will certainly get wet and rot eventually.The best things in life are free.... so why am I doing this?
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Thanks PeterPeter Butler wrote: ↑Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:40 am This is an example of the kind of stiffeners I use in my Plasticard structures....
IMG_5084.JPG
I would never consider using wood as it is sure to place uneven stresses in changing conditions and will certainly get wet and rot eventually.
Useful info. Top and bottom bracing along the sides seems eminently appropriate for larger foamboard buildings as well (and maybe smaller ones too).
Rik
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Iv done excaky the same thing as Peter with my buildings this works a treat
Re: Sawmill boiler house
First stage of the painting process now finished. Bit more tweaking and weathering to be done, once this lot has hardened off a bit. Also, want to do something to the interior of the boiler house - nothing fancy, just something to glimpse through the windows.
Rik
Rik
Re: Sawmill boiler house
Very nice tonal variation in the brickwork Rik.
Phil
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
Sporadic Garden Railer who's inconsistencies know no bounds
My Line - https://gardenrails.org/forum/viewtopic ... 41&t=11077
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