Couplings
Couplings
You may have seen in my HGLW thread that I've retained LGB couplings on my stock because:
a) they are cheap
b) they are reliable (I do a lot of shunting operations)
However,
c) they are unprotypical
d) they look naff
I've experimented with a range of different couplings but not yet found anything to replace them which are reliable and I can afford (I have around 75 items of rolling stock).
Does anyone have any suggestions as to:
e) ways of improving the appearance of LGB couplings
f) replacements which are as effective but won't require a remortgage of the house?
Rik
a) they are cheap
b) they are reliable (I do a lot of shunting operations)
However,
c) they are unprotypical
d) they look naff
I've experimented with a range of different couplings but not yet found anything to replace them which are reliable and I can afford (I have around 75 items of rolling stock).
Does anyone have any suggestions as to:
e) ways of improving the appearance of LGB couplings
f) replacements which are as effective but won't require a remortgage of the house?
Rik
Re: Couplings
Rik,
That's a potential can of worms you've opened. My friend with a OO layout is going through exactly the same issue. Presently his trains operate with 4 or 5 different types of couplings and the jury's still out.
I shall watch with interest!
Ian
That's a potential can of worms you've opened. My friend with a OO layout is going through exactly the same issue. Presently his trains operate with 4 or 5 different types of couplings and the jury's still out.
I shall watch with interest!
Ian
Ian
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Re: Couplings
As you know Rik I use the Accucraft choppers modified with magnets for uncoupling and these look good and are reliable.
Although cost is a concern for you given the amount of rolling stock you have I think these are your best option without having to make something yourself and then being able to produce couplings to the same quality level consistently.
Although cost is a concern for you given the amount of rolling stock you have I think these are your best option without having to make something yourself and then being able to produce couplings to the same quality level consistently.
Re: Couplings
Hi Rik.
I have fitted Slater's couplings to all my home built WHR bogie stock. They are not quite prototypical but close enough for me. They are middling in the price range at £10 for two that you put together yourself from brass castings. Just a hack saw, file and small hammer needed. They are sprung so look good when starting with a heavy train. D.
I have fitted Slater's couplings to all my home built WHR bogie stock. They are not quite prototypical but close enough for me. They are middling in the price range at £10 for two that you put together yourself from brass castings. Just a hack saw, file and small hammer needed. They are sprung so look good when starting with a heavy train. D.
David T.
Re: Couplings
Nice looking couplings, but not sure I can run to the £750 needed to re-equip my stock with them.
Rik
Rik
Re: Couplings
I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.
It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?
Ian
It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?
Ian
Ian
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Re: Couplings
Do all the stock need changing though or just the locos?
You could then just change a few wagons and they can then have a LGB coupler on one end to connect to existing stock?
You could then just change a few wagons and they can then have a LGB coupler on one end to connect to existing stock?
Re: Couplings
Sounds interesting, Ian. The great advantage of the LGB coupling is being able to push long rakes without the risk of buffer lock. Just trying to figure out if that could be replicated with a smaller profile wire version.IanC wrote: ↑Thu May 03, 2018 10:38 pm I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.
It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?
Ian
Rik
Re: Couplings
Eventually, I'd like to convert all stock. I suppose one advantage of making an LGB compatible alternative is that I could do the replacements gradually.tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 7:41 am Do all the stock need changing though or just the locos?
You could then just change a few wagons and they can then have a LGB coupler on one end to connect to existing stock?
Thinking-cap on ......... If I could somehow widen a centre buffer so they wouldn't lock when being pushed, then the hook and loop could become less obtrusive as they would only be used for pulling.
I think we're on to something.
Rik
Re: Couplings
Rik,ge_rik wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 7:59 amSounds interesting, Ian. The great advantage of the LGB coupling is being able to push long rakes without the risk of buffer lock. Just trying to figure out if that could be replicated with a smaller profile wire version.IanC wrote: ↑Thu May 03, 2018 10:38 pm I had a friend who designed and made his own couplings for OO gauge rolling stock. It was very similar to the LGB style, which to me resembles an inverted Hornby style one. It was adapted with some sort of magnetic counter balance which gave some form of automatic coupling and uncoupling. Being made of wire the pros and cons of your original post are still relevant Rik. However they were cheap and less obtrusive.
It occurs to me you might consider making your own style of LGB couplings which might give you compatability with existing stock while improving the look slightly?
Ian
Rik
Yes, from memory the train was uncoupled over a magnet, then the coupling was designed in such a way that the wagons could then be propelled without re-coupling.
If you like I'll try and contact him to get the design details.
Ian
Ian
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Re: Couplings
If you are going to play about with magnetic uncoupling use neodymium magnets, they are the nuts!
Hard drives have these types of magnets in them if you have any not being used.
Hard drives have these types of magnets in them if you have any not being used.
Re: Couplings
An inverted version of the Slaters one but with the 'body' members slghtly wider apart to allow some sideplay for the hook, wouldn't be difficult to knock up and you could then make the face of the buffer as wide as you need to prevent buffer lock.
Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm
Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm
Philip
Re: Couplings
Yes. I'd recommend the neodymium magnets too for magnetic uncoupling.tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 9:54 am If you are going to play about with magnetic uncoupling use neodymium magnets, they are the nuts!
Hard drives have these types of magnets in them if you have any not being used.
Ian
Ian
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Re: Couplings
But ou will need buffers to propel!philipy wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 10:42 am Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm
Tim
Re: Couplings
They're very neat and quite cheap. Only problem is that I have a reverse loop on my railway which I use from time to time and so some stock would end up the wrong way round. Pity, I like the delay option for uncoupling.philipy wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 10:42 am An inverted version of the Slaters one but with the 'body' members slghtly wider apart to allow some sideplay for the hook, wouldn't be difficult to knock up and you could then make the face of the buffer as wide as you need to prevent buffer lock.
Edited to add: There is a beastie called a Dingham Coupler. I admit that I've no experience of it but it might help either directly or simply to give you ideas.
http://www.dingham.co.uk/7mm_coupler.htm
Rik
Re: Couplings
I've been doing some experiments and made some progress on developing my own couplings. I decided that the easiest approach was to produce something which would be a direct replacement for LGB couplings - so same dimensions and same single screw fixing. At the moment, they are very much prototypes - I've ordered some brass rod/wire and more brass plate - oh and some chemical blackening solution.
At the moment, just a couple of paper-clips soldered to a bit of bent-up brass. I'll improve the fixing pedestal as well. .
The hooks engage in the same way as the original LGB versions. .
When pushing, the Binnie Carmarthen couplings bear against each other. I've checked them over the sharpest curves and there's no buffer lock. .
The beauty of this coupling is that it is compatible with LGB coupings and so I can replace them over a period of time and run original and new couplings together. .
I'll post more info once I've made up some 'proper' versions.
Rik
At the moment, just a couple of paper-clips soldered to a bit of bent-up brass. I'll improve the fixing pedestal as well. .
The hooks engage in the same way as the original LGB versions. .
When pushing, the Binnie Carmarthen couplings bear against each other. I've checked them over the sharpest curves and there's no buffer lock. .
The beauty of this coupling is that it is compatible with LGB coupings and so I can replace them over a period of time and run original and new couplings together. .
I'll post more info once I've made up some 'proper' versions.
Rik
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Re: Couplings
Agree with blackening these using chemicals rather than painting as it will not last.
I don't see how these uncouple though without having to bend the wire down?
I don't see how these uncouple though without having to bend the wire down?
Re: Couplings
Yes, that's right. I'm using the springiness of the wire to provide the auto coupling effect and then pressing the hooks down to uncouple. Same principle as LGB couplings. That's why the hook is soldered further back than the loop.tom_tom_go wrote: ↑Sat May 12, 2018 3:34 pm I don't see how these uncouple though without having to bend the wire down?
Rik
Re: Couplings
Having said keep the lgb coupling they look quite clumsy against your home made version. With blackening they will virtually disappear, clever!
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